87MJJeep

Is that a power window part, or either type? I've got crank windows. I saw nothing near the board.

Both of my doors have had repairs. Remnants of original rivets were found in the passenger door, and the lock solenoid has had work in the driver side door. What is odd is that I realized the yellow-brown thing in the door was a piece of wood. It was not a smooth cut. It was approximately 1.5-1.75 inches wide, 5-6 inches long, and ranged from 0.5 to .75 inch in height. It was glued to the bottom of the door (on the bottom horizontal part of the door), and it was close to being centered. Does anyone know why that would have been needed? I took it out since it can hold moisture.

When I upgraded to gauges about a year ago, I got my new temp and oil sending units at Autozone. The temp sending unit lasted less than a year, and well under 3K miles. When it read low over the winter, I just figured it ran cold and maybe the thermostat was staying open. We had a relatively cool spring, so I still assumed I had a stuck open stat. When the real heat hit in June, I knew I had a gauge issue. After reading several posts on here, I knew to check the ohm reading, and I could tell the gauge was reading what the sending unit was telling it. I got my Mopar sending unit today. Problem solved.

Thanks for the tip. I think I have thick plastic around here somewhere, so if I find it, I'll try some of that adhesive. If not, I'll do what wannbeMJ did.

Is that stuff the same as "contact paper?"

Thanks!

I was surprised, but the drain holes are all clear on both doors! Here's a shot showing how water is getting in the door, but coming out directly behind the door panel. http://widetrackdrive.com/temp/mj/IMG_7685cr-rs.jpg dasbulliwagen, thanks for the comments. Making them myself is worth a try!

mfpdm, thanks for the tip! gl1200aman, I figured the torn plastic allowed the water to get out of the door frame, but I am looking at everything. Which part is the weather strip door seal you're referring to? Is it the black foam seal that runs around the edge of the door opening? (adheres to the body, not the doors?)

Has anyone here ever determined some of your water leaks were due to a torn or missing plastic sheet that goes between the door frame and interior panel? When I pulled my panels off, the passenger side sheet was torn in several places, and the driver side was missing. I am checking with my dealer to see if I can order those plastic sheets, but I have considered making my own. I am just not sure what kind of adhesive to use. If anyone else has made their own, I'd like to know any tips you have to share. The Baby Powder trick revealed I had water getting inside the interior by running down the inside surface of the door frame dripping down from the plane parallel to where the interior panel meets the door frame.

Today I put my insulation and carpet back in. All was well until I hit the headlight switch, and I realized I had no instrument panel lights. I checked, and the 5A fuse was blown. I wondered if I pinched a wire with the carpet/seat/seatbelt reinstallation. I found where I pinched the wires for the Transfer Case Selector light with the seatbelt bolt against the tunnel. Before looking for that wire, I put a multimeter on the two prongs for that light, and I got the continuity beep. I figured that was my sign that circuit had the short. After digging that wire out from under the carpet and finding where I could see a strand of copper through torn insulation, I separated the two wires, but I still get the continuity beep. Is that normal? I even cut the two wires off where they pinched, and I put the meter across the ends that run to the harness - still had continuity. I put in a new 5A fuse, and now I have a lit instrument panel again. With the parking lights/IP lights on, the continuity beep across those two wires is a lot louder, but with the switch off, it's not a "feeble" beep like one gets while testing a circuit with a really bad connection. I just thought when a switch was OFF, there should be NO continuity through it. I wondered if there is a chance that the instant before the fuse blew, was the switch harmed? Or is it a coincidence with the wire being pinched by the seatbelt bolt? Any tips are appreciated!

Well, I drug out more baby powder and got the hose out. On both driver and passenger side, water is going through the door and coming out where the bottom edge of the door panel meets the door. Is this an issue with the window trim/seal on the outside, or is this an issue with something inside the door where water should be diverted to drain only out of the drain holes? All drain holes have water coming out, so it doesn't appear to be a blockage causing the water to back flow. How difficult is it to remove the door panels and reinstall them without them becoming rattle traps? I wonder if I can make silicone dams in there to direct water to the drain holes only? Note: For the passenger side, I got this from running water on the open door carefully just hosing the windows. passenger side: On the driver side, with the door open, I only got water coming in the vent window. After the door was closed, I got the water to come out from between the door panel and door like the passenger side did with it open. driver side:

Hello - long time no post! Warm weather is back, and it's time to finally get my MJ sealed and carpet put back in! Does anyone have a photo of exactly where that part goes? Also, I think I've whipped all my leaks except for two. One is the vent window on the driver side. Are new vent window seals still available, or should I try a home-made remedy? (I have one in mind) I even see where pollen pretended to be baby powder and ran in to the top edge of the driver door panel! My second leak has me a little perplexed. After two rains, I opened the door, and right where the red arrow points, I had water standing - maybe the area of two quarters side by side - with the water trickling down where the inner trim/seal has a part in it. I looked under the door edge, and even with baby powder's help, I can't tell where the water came from. Has anyone had it pool in this same spot? All I know to do is gently hose the door down with it open to see if water is going through the door and coming out right where the bottom edge of the door panel meets the door.

I had the exact same leak. I haven't gotten around to trying to find the correct size grommet. As a temp fix (since the carpet is out), I have duct tape sealing it. That was the happiest find ever. I thought I had a cowl leak in that front right corner. Finding where the previous owner left the grommet out during the radio swap was such a relief!

thanks for the advice!

The previous owner that put the radio in left the old cable in there when routing the new radio's cable. Not only did the moron leave that hole wide open, he wired the speakers wrong. Thanks for the lead on the factory grommet! I put black silicone on my rear window two weeks ago, but still had a drip after that (the silicone fixed the driver side rear leak though!). I'll check the blow-out vent. Is that located behind the black trim pieces on the side of the cab? If so, that seems like it could be given where the water is.

Thanks for the advice!

What stores carry SEM? Did you guys repaint ones that were already painted, or did you paint polished pieces?

I have my windshield molding off while hunting for my water leaks. I used a little chrome polish on them, and they shined a little bit better. Judging by the surface condition, do I need to rough up the surface any before painting them black? Use steel wool for that? I like the look of jpdocdave's semi-gloss black trim, so I'll go with that black. If anyone has any paint brands to recommend, let me know. A year ago or so I repainted the grill with DupliColor's trim black. It's held up well. Here's what mine look like now.

Right after making the post above, I went outside to remove the insulation on the passenger side inner fender (?). That's when I found a hole with a cable coming through it. I quickly got a hose stuck in the cowl, turned on the water, and thankfully this hole was the entry point of my water! Considering I did not how to get to that corner of the cowl, I am quite pleased right now! I was going to ask what that cable is, but I took another look. It's an aftermarket radio's antenna cable. One more reason I hate aftermarket crap. :fs1: My MJ has two antenna cables. I'm special. :doh: Now to pull the cables and run a correct size grommet on it. So far, equipped with baby powder, I haven't spotted the leaks in the passenger rear or driver front. Those areas would stop leaking once I got the serious tool out. I do have the best smelling Comanche interior. When I close the doors, a poof of white dust goes everywhere. :rotf: The passenger rear leak puddles right next to the seatbelt bolt. Every time I've found water there, there was no sign of where it came from! I'll leave the baby powder in there for a while.

If you haven't already, check the cowl drains. (Pop off the wipers, and remove the cowl plate, about six small screws. Underneath, there will be a drain hole, about 1" diameter, on each side.) If they fill up with leaves n crap, the water will puddle up and drain back into the cab. You wouldn't think so, but it can put a LOT of water into the Jeep... Good luck! Robert I pulled the cowl cover on mine. I poured water one 2L Coke bottle at a time. My front right leak is coming from the cowl rather than windshield. It appears to come into the cab then run down the passenger side panel (the one that is the inner fender(?) that is to the right of the passenger's feet). I've seen the photos by "mfpdm" in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9741 For a leak on the passenger side, I don't see how to get to it or even see the details in that end. The cowl area looked really clean, too. I am not sure what to do now.

Thanks for the help. If it's cheaper at AZ, I might get one after all.

Is it like or the same as the fitting Wildman posted above?

Fiatslug, thanks for posting the brochure pics! In my mind I remembered all Eliminators having dark bumpers! I think from that shot, the lights look a little better in the outer holes! It makes the truck seem wider. Comanche09, those look good! When I got my truck, it had a winch bumper on it. I had a hard time removing it (was welded to the frame) and getting the stock bumper back on. The way I have it on there, I was more inclined to rig up a new mount for clearance than to loosen the bumper and hope I had a little room to push it forward. :(

My meter's dial has a position named "buzz.". It beeps when there's continuity between the leads. Verify the bulb filaments are good by testing them first.

Thanks for the tip!