chicofuentes0224

Ok ok. Frigging tech-na-calities. I'll wait till the first game of the season. But ESPN just said the Jet's QB,(Pendleton I think) is getting released or traded by tonight so NY better hope he makes the cut. :D

Wade, you owe me $5 smacker-oonies :D I am now officially a Jets fan :D

The whole way around.

Very nice, thanks fer the page Eagle. Have you tried them yourself?

The only prob is that in states like PA you're required by state inspection to cover your tires if they stick out past your fenders. Even if you get away with it like I did by putting by stock wheels and tires back on for inspection the police in my area are sticklers for the rule and pull me over constantly because my front tires stick out past the fenders. I haven't seen many other options besides BW to solve this problem. At $400 bucks a set they're not cheap but I'd like to know of a better alternative.

Well my thermostat housing is once again reading 214-219 so I guess I'm either running hot again or another laser thermometer is worthless. :wall:

And while we're on charging systems, what's the differnce between a red and yellow Optima battery.

That's a good article Don, thanks. So, I guess I'm looking for an alternator that's 130 Amp? There's no battery/alt shops around me. Can anyone recommend a good alternator for an 88 4.0 and place to buy it? (Napa's out of the question.) ???????????????????? A & S Alternator & Starter Service 1625 Market St Camp Hill PA 17011 717-975-9605 Damn Rog, that's amazing. I didn't even know that place exsisted, and it's less than two miles from where I'm at. Thanks :cheers:

Thanks Don :cheers:

That's a good article Don, thanks. So, I guess I'm looking for an alternator that's 130 Amp? There's no battery/alt shops around me. Can anyone recommend a good alternator for an 88 4.0 and place to buy it? (Napa's out of the question.)

Yeah, but will it hurt anything to put the higher Amp one on. This is considering I plan on one day adding fog lights, two electric fans instead of one, 4 lights on a show or roll bar, lights in the back to light up the bed and the area behind me and who knows what other electrical doo-hickey I can throw on there. I don't want to skimp on the alternator only to have to replace it 1 year down the road because of crap I add on.

It's not that I have anything against Autozone, just that the employees at the store near me are extremely rude and seem to throw a fit everytime I ask them a question. That and I saw in Quadratech's catalog that there is like a 170 Amp alternator (don't quote me on that #) and I don't think Autozone carries anything that powerful by looking at their website. So since I doubt I'll buy it from them I feel bad asking an already rude employee for help on something that they won't be selling me anyway.

Thanks Brent :cheers:

To please do me a favor and check the temp on the metal on the outside of their thermostat housing to see if my temp is close to correct. I'm talking about hitting the metal tube that goes into the rubber hose going back to the fire wall. TIA :cheers:

I know mine works but I'd like to know if it's working at optimal condition. Does anyone know what voltage or amp it should be kicking out and how I would check it with a voltmeter. On a side note, if I go to buy a new one, what brand/amp is the best you can buy or what should I buy if I plan to later need more juice for aux lights etc.... I really don't want to go to Autozone and have them check it. Edit: On a side-side note, does anyone have a good write up on removal/installation of a new one.

The wiring harness is one assembly from the fuse block to the connector for the rear lights/fuel pump. If you're using a cherokee one try and get one with the same transmission (auto or manual). You're going to have to splice wires at the connector that I mentioned because the actual connectors are differnt. One of the wires will have to actually run to the switch on the steering culumn. So it is very possible to use a XJ one, just a pain. I know, I did it. If at all possible try to get a MJ one.

The TPS is adjustable by loosening the two small bolts that hold it on and rotating the TPS up or down. You have to have a gauge hooked up to the back of the connector to read the voltage of the differnt wires. PM if you need the info from Alldata for an automatic. However you're problem might be that your Vac lines from the VC are clogged. Take the line that runs from the back of the VC and disconnect it at the intake manifold. If your idle raises a good amount that line might just be plugged up with gunk. Blow compressed air thru it and remove your VC and clean out the ports that let the gasses escape. I'll PM you the info from Alldata for the TPS adjustment procedure or run a search on here and it's come up many times on how to do it.

The brackets from the XJ power seats will not work without modification. I have a set and tested them and they don't line up at all with the MJ bolts.

Just rum? I'm not much of a rum drinker after the last time I had it. We were wheeling in the coast mountains, camping in some hell hole of a campsite nicknamed 'little iraq' for all the empty munitions on the ground, it rained every day, and I drank 26oz of cpt morgans and wound up having a LONG next day since 9 or so of the 12 rigs carnaged major parts. So, not big on rum anymore. I don't know :dunno: , but I'll try tekilla, vodka, and wisskey over the weekend and let you know how it works out :rotfl2: And don't tell CW but if you add plenty of lime to the rum it cuts out the hangover. That and extremely spicy shrimp.

If you get Claritin get the one that says Claritin-D. Works better. P.S. Don't mix it with Rum.

OKOKOKOKOKOKOKOK, here it comes :D NOOOOO, BAAASTARD! :cry: Godforsaken thumb :rant:

You got it Captain! I'll let you know how it works out then :D :cheers:

I used bubblegum and superglue. Haven't sunk yet.

That's not an adjustment, just a plastic post, part of the housing that the meter windings are wrapped around. In Chico's case I do not think there is anything wrong with his temp gauges since they are all reading approximately the same. I think he should try the new wire trick first: Can you run a clean new wire from the sensor directly to the gauge input (pin A1 on connector A)? Donnie baby, I can run anything you want me too, but can you tell me which one connecter A is. Is it the one where the wire is running from the temp sender to the firewall?

All three are connected and brand new. And actually the sending unit for the gauge has been replaced 3 times now to see if I can get a decent reading on the gauge. The truck is not running hot. (200-205* at the thermostat housing) 3 differnt clusters have been used. 2 differnt gauges have been tried. (One checked/calibrated by Hornbrod) So the problem seems to excist somewhere in the wiring between the sending unit on the back of the head by the valve cover and the actual gauge. Hence a friend said that he believes you can actually buy something so whatever voltage is going thru that wire to the gauge can be changed to be a differnt voltage so my gauge will read correctly. Does my gauge need to read correctly? Not really. But it's driving me nuts that something so simple does not work correctly and it's become somewhat of an obsession to corect the false readout of that gauge.