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A-V

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Everything posted by A-V

  1. Small update to this topic. I've been driving the Comanche all thru the freezing winter, rainy spring and then on to summer. No problems whatsoever and I've been REALLY satisfied on how the 2.5i engine has performed, all from hauling wood to rabble and all sorts of furniture/etc. I did take the time to continue the pre-paint work of smoothening the bumps around the truckbed. Took about 2 days and there's still more stuff to do, but getting there. After the hammering+bondoing+etc work I re-primered it and it may go into a paintbooth late this summer for a entirely new look... ;) Here's a few pics. PS. I even sold the Patriot, so this is my only daily-driver nowadays.
  2. A-V

    Gas prices

    plain gasoline out of the pump? 8.06 USD / US Gallon (that's 1.45 EUR / liter). So stop whining about US gasoline prices :banana:
  3. Neither did I, and you might guess the trouble I had routing the wires to the doors since I was missing a rubber boot between the doors and the body... so I stole a set of boots from a chevy stw.. ;) didn't quite fit but almost so...
  4. Installed a stereosystem to the truck. 5.25 MDS mid+tweeter setup in front Alpine MP3/CD player in dash Alpine power-amp behind driver MDS 10" subwoofer in a closed box behind passenger +tons of wires.. ;) (will get them sorted out to look 'cleaner' soon) Costs in total were around 300USD. I am guessing some of you already know the challenges of installing a decent stereosystem into a Comanche without ruining the practicality of the truck. Took me a while to make the subwoofer box from scratch to the specs I decided on, it's 26.5liters and the 10" sub was rated at needing a 25liter box so the sound is excellent out of it. ;) Here's a few install shots. No speakers option updated... ;) Original door panels had holes and all, I all needed was to make a hole in the fabric and staple the extra on the back of the board. This is how the door looked before the 'doh!' when I closed it for the first time (see above pics for the change I needed...). btw, I installed newer and more 'luxurious' hand rests.. was giving me a headache before taking the door apart on how to attach the top part.. and look what I found under the plastics.. (i used to have the smaller type handrest without the upper handle)... Also decided on a color for the J e e p decal in the back... I don't think people will mistake me for a Toyota Hilux from the rear anymore... (they do know it's a Jeep from the front already...) Text looks a bit blurry, but that's due to JPG compression.. it's well done in real life. :brows:
  5. Looks VERY good! Clean and rustfree. There aren't many like that left...
  6. That's a good looking driver mate, with a bit of TLC that'll be good as new.. :) Looks like the metal is all there and the sides are straight - which is more than I could say about my Comanche when I started... ;)
  7. lookin' sharp!
  8. Nice to see another '86 Custom in the build :) Keep up the great work! Although I'd save that bench seat, they will be very rare in the near future (no XJ's had them and most MJ owners are getting rid of them..). I found one in Europe and just had to have it (my Custom had buckets originally) becouse I need room for my dog (and wife).. :brows: ps. that's one very cool interior color on the panels/dash. Have not seen another one with the same...
  9. Sounds like a reasonable plan indeed... I'll propably go ahead with increasing air-flow (intake/exhaust) to maximize what the current renix system can do... Already removed the air con and have been thinking about ditching that mechanical fan too, your comment only strenghtens that idea. Thanks mate.
  10. Progress. Fixed the exhaust leak, which was suprisingly easy with a few welds to strenghten the old welds in the catalysator. I'm guessing it's not working that well anymore, so it might be a good idea to replace it anyhow in the near future. Also I found a full gage cluster from a 2.1 turbo diesel XJ, which I got for next to nothing along with front springs which i'll most likely cut to be the lowering springs for the front. Back will be lowered by replacing the U-bolts with longer ones and adding a small block of metal between the springs and the rear axle. I was looking at other ways to do this too (like redoing the leaf spring hangers in the rear and/or redoing the leaf springs themselves), but realized this is propably the best way to go. These mods should lower the truck some 4-5 inches. Not really sure when I get the time to get them done, but good planning if half of the job anyhow :D Oh yeh, to the point, does that diesel '87 full gage cluster with revmeter and others work on my '86 2.5L gasoline version? I do understand that it will be different, but just curious on if it will work at all (it's in the mail, haven't tried yet). btw, I noticed when accelerating hard with this truck that I can smoke the tires on first gear, then accelerate and when swapping to 2nd gear the tires spin again (on the move, amazing)... I might have underestimated the potential in this 2.5L which has gotten me into thinking about turbos... Anyone turboed the AMC 2.5L ?
  11. Lots of good links, but none seem to be a direct fit for me. I've got a 1986 MJ with a 2.5L renix injection. Which one of these injectors might work with it...? Any ideas?
  12. On my MJ I carry a spare belt for the alternator/waterpump, a good pair of vice grips (Knipex Cobra), about a dozen zip-ties, some electric tape, 2 screwdrivers and that's it. On my Hornet I have the same, although with an added spare tire/jack/X-key for the wheelbolts. Although on my MJ I do have a new alternator, new waterpump, etc so less stress about those. I used to carry around a box *or two* of spares for my AMC Hornet, but I seemed always to break something that I DIDN'T have with me however much of gear was in the trunk - so at one time I just left everything at home. Haven't regretted it and saves me in fuel (less weight).
  13. Nice setup mate! ...Even though I really dislike the infinity grille on those speakers (if it were mine it would be black already..heh). Now that my truck is a daily driver I've been thinking of installing a stereo system in it. It's a '86 Custom model (meaning the very base) and I'm 100% sure that it has never had a stereosystem in it, quite funny if you think about it with 105k miles on the truck... I'd gone mad without music on my trips. It doesn't even have holes or grilles anywhere (except for the dash-knee speaker spots). I've been thinking of installing a cerwin vega 12" subwoofer behind the bench and infinity reference series (they're about 8 years old) 5.25 in the front with hi-tweakers on top of the dash. Possibly some USB capable MP3 player in the dash and my trusty 4x120W Autostudio amp under the bench seat. Only thing I've been worried about is the box for the subwoofer, since the truck has VERY limited space behind the bench seat and that CV! 12" wants a big box, so it's possible that I'll just get one of those newer type subwoofers which need a much smaller box to operate with efficiency... How big is your box for the subwoofer and what kinda gear is the amp+sub? How's the sound quality / bass pressure..?
  14. funny thing, sealed beams are illegal in Europe (at least in Northern Europe) and almost all cars have H4's. the set linked above looks to be a typical headlight setup in any European XJ/MJ. Have a similar one on my MJ and had it also on my previous XJs.
  15. truck looks good mate. On the engine "gunk" buildup issue, if there's buildup inside the engine I found out that the only way to do something about it was to remove all lower freezeplugs (the big ones on the sides) and use a round wirebrush and/or screwdrivers to remove all that you can find. Those engine cooling flushes usually just clean up the places where the gunk is loose. One of my engines had more than an inch (up to 2 in places) of gunk that had gathered on the bottom of the cooling 'canals' around the cylinders. Removed that and after new freeze plugs noticed an instant change in the cooling. The gunk was almost like fine sand, composed mostly of rust and it was blockin fluid circulation around the cylinders. This is what happens when people run the engine cooling with just water and/or never change their coolant fluid.
  16. good looking truck, almost regretting that I painted mine flat black instead of some other color... ;) I'm hoping you keep this truck on the road and not decide to make it just another offroad machine... :roll:
  17. droool.... :bowdown: Looks fantastic.
  18. I finally fully took apart the idle-stepmotor which regulates the idle-speed. Seemed OK although a bit dirty. It's a pretty simple design and after some wondering I realized a spring had busted behind the 'screw' that turns on the cog-wheel to increase idle when needed. So I found a matching spring from a rear-brake-light sensor (some Cherokee 1997? perhaps) and cut it slightly shorter and installed it. Now the idle returns to 'low' but doesn't rev-up when needed (cold starting etc). After some more checking I realized the electric motor in the sensor doesn't work anymore with 'load' on it. Perhaps I need to get a new one, as for now I turned it into a manual idle configuration. Meaning it defaults on low, but I can adjust it just like it was a carburated model. I've also looked into the automatic transmission idea on the trusty four banger. Looks like TH200R4 from behind a GM V8 won't fit so I'll have to find one from behind a V6 (80s/90s Camaro, Firebird, etc GM rear wheel drive cars, which are popular around here. All STW's are with V8s sadly, becouse those would have cost me next to nothing to get.. they are THAT plentiful). So this idea is in the works, only thing is to see if I find one. GM shifters/etc gear are sold practicly in milk-stores so I don't think the fitment will cause any problems. Driveshaft will most likely need to adjusted to a different length but I have a mate who does that sort of thing. One thing is that the AMC 290cid is still in the works (and will be for some time) so I might just go ahead with this temporary solution to make the truck more relaxing to drive. I'll keep you posted on it. Sort of fixed the heater blower motor again, with some WD40. I'm guessing it won't live long though so I'm also on the lookout for a replacement (that earlier one didn't work out - it was just as bad). Don't feel like spending ca$h on a new one yet. Noticed yesterday that the exhaust has started to leak, mainly from the catalytic converter (which is original from the looks of it). I may end up replacing it with a new unit (general cc's are quite cheap, around $50) or just a muffler (as the truck is old enough for the 'easier' smog-testing on it's yearly inspection). We'll see. When looking at the exhaust for leaks I noticed the spare tire on the backside of the bed. Damn, that thing has rusted itself into the carriers making it totally useless at the moment. I may just cut it free and replace it with a fullsize spare. Also on the news. I'm lowering the truck some 4-5 inches, which means I'm getting ~18 inch chrome rims for it for next summer. Possibly going thru winter with the 'old' ones. And yes - I am mental - but seriously it's a pickup not a 4x4... :D
  19. Looks like a fun project. :popcorn:
  20. Thanks for the feedback mates! Been driving the Comanche to work this week and fixed a few minor bugs already (lights, blinkers, that sort of things that are normal after some 9 years of standing still...). One thing that's starting to bother me is the idle-speed. Normally it bottoms down to it's typical place but lately it's been hanging up on some ~2500rpm (difficult to say without a tach though, but trust me it is HIGH). I'm guessing the problem is the idlespeed stepmotor (whatever it's called in english) which regulates the idle by reading the sensors (i'm guessing mainly o2 sensor?). I have not taken the part out yet, but I would figure it can be cleaned and possibly salvaged? I was also looking at the o2 sensor in the exhaust and it looks to be original. With 105k miles on the truck it might be a good idea to get that replaced as well, what do u think? I think I've also lost the heater blower motor, it has started to 'moo' at me and it sounds like the bearings are giving out or something. Oh well, I can possibly get a used replacement motor from a wrecked XJ. Another thing, is it possible to install a TH-350 transmission behind the AMC 2.5L. Pete M wrote that it shares a bolt pattern with 2.8L GM V6 so it just occurred to me that it might be possible to get rid of the AX4 (or T4 as it may be) manual.. Any thoughts on this?
  21. :jump: :jump: :jump: As you may see from the pics, it's FINALLY registered for traffic. This meaning the inspection bureau has looked thru the car checking every little detail on it's mechanics, electrics, driveline, engine emissions, etc. It's all good now. It was actually quite funny, becouse on the way to the inspection bureau the idle speed kicked up to some 2500rpm, due to that small valvethingy in front of the intake not functioning as it should. So I took it to the highway, slammed the pedal down some, went shopping (all with temporary licence plates of coz) and let it cool down a bit and voilá. Everything works now - it's just that I hadn't driven the truck for a year... No comments from the inspection engineer, other than: "I didn't even know Jeep made Pickups, much rather one with a sensible and injected four cylinder and in the 80s!". I bet he would have flipped if he knew my plans to install a V8... :nuts: From these 2 pics you can also see the next thing I'll be focusing on with this truck. The paintjob will be redone with proper sanding and straightening the dents. But no worries, it'll stay this color... propably with some flames or scallops and/or pinstripes... 8) Thanks to everyone for their support on this project!
  22. Been REALLY enjoying this build and I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product. As many others have noted before, what you've done to your Comanche is something most of us dream of doing to our trucks. Keep up the Excellent work mate and cheers from another Comanche nut in Finland. ;)
  23. Oil leaks fixed. And took me 2 days to get it all back together. Yesterday I put new oil inside and tried to start her up, but to my disappointment the battery had died. After getting some more juice via jumper cables I tried to start her up again and quite soon noticed that the starter was moo'ing like a horny bull in heat (not that i'd know how that would sound like, but it was LOUD). So I'm guessing I f*cked up somehow with the installation. There were no shims used, so I am a bit curious on how that is possible - after all it was all there previously and no extra noises. I guess it is possible that there's some play in the installation holes on the engine or the starter itself so it looks like I've gotta take it all apart again (to reach the starter bolts you have to remove the exhaust, the engine-tranny support brace, etc..) and give it a good shake before re-installing. The removal really wouldn't be such of a hassle if the morons in the factory hadn't used a Bosch starter and installed it with Torx bolts. I mean I do have a full set of them but these ones are the protruding kind, meaning not a hole to put the torx in but a raised 'bolt-head' torx - come on - what's the big idea here. Thankfully I got a set of tools for those too but there's no way to use them with the exhaust/brace in the way. Quite annoying. All this really got me into wishing I'd had time to rebuild that AMC 290cid and find a manual transmission for it... But decided to stick with the 4-banger for this summer (what's left of it) and actually ordered that new CPS sensor to the engine since the old one was getting worse and worse... Cost me 100 USD to get it to my mailbox today. (75 for the sensor and 25 for s&h). Hopefully that'll fix those annoying breaks I was getting earlier on. Here's a few pix: Everything looked fine after oil-pan removal, only thing is that I had to use a chisel to hack out the old oilpan gaskets, no amount of 'gasket removal spray' helped one bit. Replaced those old hardened ones with Mopar RTV. Should hold up quite nicely. Quick paintjob on all the parts and a few hours from this pic it was all done. Here's the curious Bosch starter used here. bolted on from below (like some GM starters i guess?)
  24. Heya mates. Took a bit of time to get back to the Comanche again, bought a motorcycle and it being in the middle of the summer currently I've been riding & working on that for the last months. But to the point. Comanche is now very close to roadworthy, took apart the underbody a bit (starter, engine-tranny support brace, clutch lower cover and oil pan) to fix up a few oil leaks and managed to fix the issue with the oil leaking from the ex-oil pressure feeder on the side of the engine (oil pressure sender unit was broken sometime in past and cut in and in addition a cut drill bit was in the hole to make things perfect..heh..) But it's all good now. Took me 3 days though. But hey, the dude staying in Tampere. Get in touch via PM... ;) I'll post some new pics soon.
  25. Oh ye, I think I managed to fix the old CPS censor by drying it fully and soldering one connection that was almost loose (just before the censor). Might have to order one anyhow, but we'll see that as I start to drive the truck on a regular basis. And another thing. My tailgate needs to be touched up a bit, meaning the ' J e e p ' text on it. What color do you folks think I should paint/sticker it (haven't decided which yet)? Take a look at the pictures posted on this messagechain and give me your opinion. I'll do the letters perhaps next week.
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