Geonovast

Get a measurement on both sides of spring perch to backing plate. Looks like your axle is off center. What's the new axle from? Did you put the perches on it?

I haven't seen spam in a few weeks. What'd you guys do?

sloride, You said you could "hear the gears" in reverse, but not the forward gears. Is that just when putting it in reverse, or after it's in gear? If you can hear a slight whining with it in gear and the truck's not moving, as well no grinding in the forward gears, then I'm certain your T-case is in neutral.

There is literally no way that the flywheel being machined could cause it to not move at all. Slip, perhaps, but not make it unmovable. Worst slipping clutch I ever saw was damn near wax paper. I watched the owner put it in 5th, dump the clutch, and it would creep forward... but it still drove somewhat normally in 1st.

Your transfer case is in neutral.

I understand Painless has wiring harnesses for them, but they're still not completely accurate, if you're looking for brand new. If your harness is just torn up and you want a harness from another truck, someone here may be able to help you. It might be easier to rewire a helicopter.

The AX-15 will be very similar but not identical. If it's just the broken shift fork, you should be able to just swap that over from the 2wd one and be good to go, or you could tear them down even further and swap the synchros... but if there weren't any metal shavings on the plug magnet and they don't look worn, that shouldn't be necessary.

$600 sounds like a dealer price.

I'm hoping you just had a cracked (and now broken) 1-2 fork. If that's the case, you can easily swap the one in from the 2wd trans and call it good.

The output shaft is different. You will not be able to just swap the rear housings. No matter how you do it, both transmissions are going to need to be ripped apart.

Yes... but isn't your replacement a 2wd?

Since reverse still works, it may be an easy fix once you get it apart. Can't wait to see inside this thing.

Does reverse still work?

You only need to change the flywheel if the clutch got so bad that it damaged the flywheel. If your clutch has been slipping a lot, it may be a good idea to change it. If you're just changing the clutch because it's old and just started to slip, you shouldn't need to change it. Clutch kit will not come with a flywheel.

Are you asking about a flywheel or a clutch kit?

Last RMS I did, I had someone turn the motor with a ratchet while I tapped. Helped A LOT.

Quick way around them is a nifty little FM transmitter with a headphone jack. Picked up mine for $15 and it works pretty well.

Trans/flywheel must be pulled on a 2.5. You must pull the pan on a 4.0, don't need to touch the trans.

Last major oil leak I dealt with was actually caused by the passenger coil spring breaking, causing the right side UCA to smack into the hump in the oil pan for the oil pump, bent it to hell and had a very nice oil hemmorage.

It's just not worth it. The system was eliminated for a reason.

I know it's obvious, but 2 door doors will not work just an FYI

I'm not a fan of amenities. Electric locks and windows can be nice, but not really needed. I can reach every window knob and lock(except the hatch, obviously) from the driver's seat. I'd trade in the XJ for a good running 5 speed MJ in a heartbeat.

Jim seemed antsy to get these. I'm surprised he hasn't popped back over here yet.

Some 91s still had a CAD. My dad's 91 XJ that I stripped out had a CAD system. I imagine they were just burning up inventory.

Are you pulling everything from the 91? If so, you can move the entire vacuum system to your 88, but it's not really worth it. Lock your CAD (see my sig), and plug the vacuum lines on the T-case. As stated, your 4wd light won't work, but.. meh.