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Wheel widening


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I live half way between the West end of the greater St. Louis area and Columbia, Missouri. I am looking for a company that widens steel wheels. Anyone give me a heads up? Kansas City area is fine also. My youngest daughter lives there and we travel there several times a year. I don't want to ship to Wisconsin or California or wherever.

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Got any local stock car tracks in your area?

 

A VERY looooooooooong time ago, the girl I was dating came into possession of a classic 2-seat AMX. However, it wasn't stock -- instead of the stock 14x6 5-spoke painted rims, this one had 14x7 chrome rims by the same company and in the same spoke style as the factory rims. And one of the rims had been trashed by vandals before she bought the car, so she had a 3-wheel AMX.

 

I took the damaged wheel to the shop that made rims for the stockers who ran at the local tracks (we three or four around here in those days). They looked at it and said, "Yeah, no problem." Their solution was to take a stock Ford cop car rim and cut the center out of it. Then they cut the trashed rim away from the AMX center (which thankfully was intact) and welded the AMX center into the new rim. They said if the original rim had been intact and all we wanted was to widen it, they could also have just sliced it and welded in a spacer ring.

 

For the AMX wheel I then took the repaired rim to a chrome plating shop and had it plated. Came out great.

 

Working on alloy rims is dicey. Steel rims are a lot easier. Just make certain that whoever does the work is set up to true the rim before they give it back to you. Otherwise you'll be like Bill Cosby's famous "woogley woogley cart" going down the road.

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Maybe I don't fully understand why you'd want to widen your wheels; so I apologize prior.

 

But why pay someone to widen a set of steel rims when steel rims in almost every size and offset combination is available from aftermarket manufactures? I'd think the cost to have a rim widened would be just as much as a new rim in the width/offset you want.

 

Now I've paid good money to have rims reworked, but they were Euro BBS RS 3-piece rims that were for a BMW and worth about $4000. I can't say I can see the desire of any rim that Jeep's ever offered to sink any money into reworking them....

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But why pay someone to widen a set of steel rims when steel rims in almost every size and offset combination is available from aftermarket manufactures? I'd think the cost to have a rim widened would be just as much as a new rim in the width/offset you want.

 

I know it sounds odd to think of widening the stock rims. I am moving between a few options. I like the idea of keeping it almost completely stock looking. But I don't like how the rear wheels set in under the wheel well further than the front wheels. Looks funny. Don't like the idea of spacers to kick them out. Adding an inch to the outside offset would make a world of difference. The front and rear would look about the same IRT distance set into the fender well. :brows:

I also like the look of steelies painted the same color as the body, with baby moons and trim rings. That would mean 4 new wheels with rings and caps, then painting, and probably going with 16 inch, so new tires also. Again, a looks thing. To achieve the same look as mentioned above, I would go with a wider wheel on the back than the front, the front remaining stock width and outside offset so the wheel and tire doesn't stick out too far and look funny for a "street jeep". And, I have a 2.5, so there is no power steering! Its "armstrong" steering". Besides, sticking too far out on the front kicks too much crud up on the side of my "clean machine". ;)

Soooo ... I want to weigh the cost since I don't make a bunch of bucks. If the widening of the rear wheels and staying 15 inch in comparison to buying four is basically equal, I will go with the four. If a LOT less, then budget says sacrifice the look. More important things, ya know!

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Power steering is a bolt-in upgrade. :D
Yea, but a power robber of my 121 horsepower 4 popper. If I added anything run by a belt, it would be AC! I'd rather be cool while turning my Arm Strong steering in Missouri hot heat. 8)
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Power steering is a bolt-in upgrade. :D
Yea, but a power robber of my 121 horsepower 4 popper. If I added anything run by a belt, it would be AC! I'd rather be cool while turning my Arm Strong steering in Missouri hot heat. 8)

 

I'll betcha your going to get 28+ mpg with this. Imagine if you had a 5 spd prolly 30-32 mpg. Get in the habit of turning the wheels while your moving a bit instead of while sitting still. Then you probably won't even miss the power steering, til ya havta weasel it in some tiny tight spot.

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I'll betcha your going to get 28+ mpg with this. Imagine if you had a 5 spd prolly 30-32 mpg. Get in the habit of turning the wheels while your moving a bit instead of while sitting still. Then you probably won't even miss the power steering, til ya havta weasel it in some tiny tight spot.

 

Have never checked milage. Gonna have to. I do have the Aisin 4 speed, and I do slightly move and turn. They only thing I miss about PS, like my 94 Cherokee has, is the really short turning radius it has.

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I'll betcha your going to get 28+ mpg with this. Imagine if you had a 5 spd prolly 30-32 mpg. Get in the habit of turning the wheels while your moving a bit instead of while sitting still. Then you probably won't even miss the power steering, til ya havta weasel it in some tiny tight spot.

 

Have never checked milage. Gonna have to. I do have the Aisin 4 speed, and I do slightly move and turn. They only thing I miss about PS, like my 94 Cherokee has, is the really short turning radius it has.

The ratio for the XJ/MJ manual boxes is abysmally slow. It's 24:1.

 

See if you can find an old AMC Javelin 6-cylinder in the junkyards. The manual steering ratio for those was 20:1. It's highly unlikely you'll find one, but the factory used to offer an optional 16:1 quick ratio manual box in the Javelin and AMX, too. My brother and I may be the only two people who ever actually ordered cars with that option. It was the dynamite setup for autocross and road racing.

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See if you can find an old AMC Javelin 6-cylinder in the junkyards. The manual steering ratio for those was 20:1. It's highly unlikely you'll find one, but the factory used to offer an optional 16:1 quick ratio manual box in the Javelin and AMX, too. My brother and I may be the only two people who ever actually ordered cars with that option. It was the dynamite setup for autocross and road racing.

 

Are they an easy fit? Looked on the internet for a rebuilt one and found one for a 1968 for 265 plus 100 core charge w/12 month warranty. Rather have a rebuilt than used. I did put in a rebuilt gear from Les Schwab about 4 years ago.[/url]

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See if you can find an old AMC Javelin 6-cylinder in the junkyards. The manual steering ratio for those was 20:1. It's highly unlikely you'll find one, but the factory used to offer an optional 16:1 quick ratio manual box in the Javelin and AMX, too. My brother and I may be the only two people who ever actually ordered cars with that option. It was the dynamite setup for autocross and road racing.

 

Are they an easy fit? Looked on the internet for a rebuilt one and found one for a 1968 for 265 plus 100 core charge w/12 month warranty. Rather have a rebuilt than used. I did put in a rebuilt gear from Les Schwab about 4 years ago.[/url]

Unless the spline count or output shaft diameter is different from Jeep, it should be a bolt-in. The Jeep box is a Saginaw, and AMC used Saginaw boxes back into the 1950s.

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