front diff. disengaged .

[BMJ]

So I went trail riding with some buddies; nothing heavy but still interesting .. about ¾ of the way ( 9 miles ) The front diff stopped engaging …;0(

 

Checked vacuum lines and seemed not cracked or bent . not sure about the fork that actuates down there. ( maybe stuck/ bent? ).

 

The trail was about to get more interesting. so Tried to Tread back on 2WD and the result was 1 rear busted fender and 2 useless tires ;0).

 

Don’t want to go thru the same prob. Again.. So what’s the easiest way to convert and be done with the vacuum sys. ?

Thanks.

[Car RamRod]

I use a throttle cable. It's a pretty simple setup; if you're interested I could elaborate further.

[Pete M]

Pop open the CAD cover and use one of the various techniques to keep the collar shifted over. A couple that come to mind are washers to keep the fork shifted, or a band clamp on the axle to directly keep the collar shifted.

[CWLONGSHOT]

As I see it you have a number of choices.

 

1) Simplest way is to remove cad, install washers so fork keeps sleeve engaging inner and outer axles all the time.

 

2) Buy a POSI-LOC

 

3) Build you own posi Loc as car ramrod mentioned.

 

4) Rebuild/ clean / replace worn parts in the factory system so it works as it should.

 

CW

[fatcat0491]

What do posi-loc's do? hahah I hate being a locker noob

[CWLONGSHOT]

Its a manually operated CABLE setup, that when pulled, moves the fork from dis- engage to engage. Also allows for 2WD LO-RANGE!!! :brows:

 

CW

[Pete M]

A Posi-loc is a really expensive way to engage or disengage the front axle coupling whenever you want.

 

In my opinion, the CAD was/is a bad idea by Jeep. And eventually they learned better and did away with it.

[fatcat0491]

Trail Repair:

 

"If you do damage the vacuum line, an easy way to re-engage the front axle is to remove the housing. After removing the vacuum motor, reinstall it but, instead of engaging the fork between the e-clips, install the farthest clip so that it pushes on the fork. This way the spring that otherwise holds the axle disengaged now holds it engaged. When reinstalling the motor, make sure to slide the sleeve over manually or you'll never reattach everything. You may need to raise the right tire and turn it to align the splines. Depending on how you're oriented, you may loose a significant portion of your axle fluid when you remove the housing so be prepared to top off the axle fluid."

 

So I'm still lost never got to smart on axles So basically instead Of part time 4wd it makes it Full time 4wd? Until you disengage it

[CWLONGSHOT]

you get power to front axle when you shift lever in your cab. So whether the front axle is engaged or dis-engaged won't matter. ALL jeeps with one piece axles are engaged all the time as jeep doesn't use any kind of a hub selector on current jeeps.

 

CW

[mfpdm]

As I see it you have a number of choices.

 

1) Simplest way is to remove cad, install washers so fork keeps sleeve engaging inner and outer axles all the time.

 

2) Buy a POSI-LOC

 

3) Build you own posi Loc as car ramrod mentioned.

 

4) Rebuild/ clean / replace worn parts in the factory system so it works as it should.

 

CW

 

5) Remove CAD axle and replace with a non-CAD axle.

 

This eliminates the problem from coming back and would probably cost less than a POSI-LOC. :brows:

 

:cheers:

[Eagle]

Don’t want to go thru the same prob. Again.. So what’s the easiest way to convert and be done with the vacuum sys. ?

Thanks.

Remove the vacuum lines. Plug the ports at the transfer case. Remove the shift motor from the axle, manually lock up the sliding sleeve, move the fork over and shim it with washers to hold it in the engaged position.

[Pete M]

So I'm still lost never got to smart on axles So basically instead Of part time 4wd it makes it Full time 4wd? Until you disengage it

 

 

The truck is still only part time. The t-case is what makes it that way.

If you're familiar with manual hubs, think of the CAD in that light. With my 78 Ford axles under my 88 MJ, I can shift the t-case lever into 4wd any time I want and the front driveshaft will turn. But that truck has manual hubs, and if I don't get out and engage them, I won't have any power to the front tires. The CAD does about the same thing. If it doesn't engage, you'll be spinning both driveshafts in 4wd, but there won't be any power getting to the front tires.

[BMJ]

Don’t want to go thru the same prob. Again.. So what’s the easiest way to convert and be done with the vacuum sys. ?

Thanks.

Remove the vacuum lines. Plug the ports at the transfer case. Remove the shift motor from the axle, manually lock up the sliding sleeve, move the fork over and shim it with washers to hold it in the engaged position.

 

:cheers: Is there a down side to this option when being a daily driver?

 

Thanks for all your input guys. :D

[fatcat0491]

Hmm thanks So basically its like my neighbors f350 Thanks

[BLHTAZ]

Don’t want to go thru the same prob. Again.. So what’s the easiest way to convert and be done with the vacuum sys. ?

Thanks.

Remove the vacuum lines. Plug the ports at the transfer case. Remove the shift motor from the axle, manually lock up the sliding sleeve, move the fork over and shim it with washers to hold it in the engaged position.

 

:cheers: Is there a down side to this option when being a daily driver?

 

Thanks for all your input guys. :D

If it's an open diff, there will be no ill effects. If you have certain types of lockers in there, then you will notice a difference n the feel of the steering, but not terrible unless its a full detroit or a spool. Simple limited slips like a True Trac and lunch box style lockers can be used with little noticeable effect.

[LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW]

I've manually locked them over without issues on probably at least 5 of my rigs in the past. The only thing is your driveshaft will now spin while driving (due to the tires rolling) instead of not turning. I've not seen any difference in gas mileage.

 

Here are some photo's showing what you do to manually keep it over.

 

Torn Apart (ignore washers, they are not part of the original assembly)

 

 

With a nut over the rod to act as a spacer (nut is directly to the left of the fork in the pic).

 

 

One thing I will say is you want it over as far to the right (in the above pic for reference) as you can get it. Just because you put a few spacers behind the fork does not mean you'll keep it manually engaged. The further to the right you can get it the better.

[BMJ]

:cheers: BLHTAZ: - You hit the nail right on the head . I 've recently bought a LSD tru -loc that will be going in that d30 ;) .. Thanks for the peace of mind there. :D

 

Thanks for the pix Lead not Follow :-Pretty straight fwd mod.

Based on all the great feedback .. I'm going in and might as well install the tru loc in there And shim that

fork All the way to the right :D .

 

Thanks to All Comanche Nation .

:chillin:

[james750]

Don’t want to go thru the same prob. Again.. So what’s the easiest way to convert and be done with the vacuum sys. ?

Thanks.

Remove the vacuum lines. Plug the ports at the transfer case. Remove the shift motor from the axle, manually lock up the sliding sleeve, move the fork over and shim it with washers to hold it in the engaged position.

 

:cheers: Is there a down side to this option when being a daily driver?

 

Thanks for all your input guys. :D

 

Best option for sliding the fork over IMO (this is what i did to mine, it is a dd and it has no affect as long as when u lock it u choose selectable lockers) pull the cad and remove the c-clip on the side, slide the fork into the locked position, place c-clip back in thus locking it in this mode. reinstall. PLUG VACCUUM LINES!!! (i forgot this vital step at first. it keeps it so there is no vaccuum leak, and ur part time light will work ;)

 

I had a thread about this on JF let me see if i can find it.