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Running a mechanical gauge wouldn't be too bad if you mounted it right to the tranny tunnel and just had the cooler lines run to it, shouldn't add too much length to the line.

I'm with oz on this one,, mech gauges are bad news to me.. I mean your running a pressurize line into the cabin... bust a hose or spring a leak and thats a hell'a mess.. But temp gauges aren't mech at all are they? Just pressure gauges..

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The Autometer tranny temp gauge Twisty's looking at is electronic gauge - comes with the thermister sensor and should work just fine. I've used a lot of Autoneter gauges in the past and have had no problems with them.

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The Autometer tranny temp gauge Twisty's looking at is electronic gauge - comes with the thermister sensor and should work just fine. I've used a lot of Autoneter gauges in the past and have had no problems with them.

 

Cool! I'm going to put the sending unit in the tranny pan. A friend has a drain plug kit that I can put onto the side...and keep it out of the way.

 

Thanks for the help guys!!

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The Autometer tranny temp gauge Twisty's looking at is electronic gauge - comes with the thermister sensor and should work just fine. I've used a lot of Autoneter gauges in the past and have had no problems with them.

 

Cool! I'm going to put the sending unit in the tranny pan. A friend has a drain plug kit that I can put onto the side...and keep it out of the way.

 

Thanks for the help guys!!

 

Twisty; I'm thinking of doing the same and mounting it on the 2-gauge windshield pillar pod I put in a while back. Can you let me know the readings when you get it installed? I put in a tranny cooler and want to see if it's doing any good. Thanks! :D

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Just curious, did you put the cooler inline with the one internal to the radiator, or do you use it instead of that one?

 

If it is also going through the radiator, is it going through the radiator first, then the cooler, or the new cooler first, then the radiator?

 

My Suburban has a transmission cooler from the factory on top of the element in the radiator (built for towing), but I have no clue what line is the inlet and what is the outlet, so I don't know which one comes first on it.

 

If I were to install a transmission temperature gauge, I'd install a sensor on both inlet and outlet lines, with the switch to select which one to display. That way you can get the transmission temperature (outlet) as well as see how well your transmission cooler system is working (outlet compared to inlet).

 

I did drive a 80's Chevy K10 one summer for work that had an after market transmission temperature gauge, but I have no clue what it usually read. That was many many moons ago.

 

Say, wouldn't this thread be more at home in the tech forum?

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Just curious, did you put the cooler inline with the one internal to the radiator, or do you use it instead of that one?

 

If it is also going through the radiator, is it going through the radiator first, then the cooler, or the new cooler first, then the radiator?

 

My Suburban has a transmission cooler from the factory on top of the element in the radiator (built for towing), but I have no clue what line is the inlet and what is the outlet, so I don't know which one comes first on it.

 

If I were to install a transmission temperature gauge, I'd install a sensor on both inlet and outlet lines, with the switch to select which one to display. That way you can get the transmission temperature (outlet) as well as see how well your transmission cooler system is working (outlet compared to inlet).

 

I did drive a 80's Chevy K10 one summer for work that had an after market transmission temperature gauge, but I have no clue what it usually read. That was many many moons ago.

 

Say, wouldn't this thread be more at home in the tech forum?

 

Sure would. Maybe Pete can slide it over there? :D I used the OEM aux cooler (pic below) and inserted it in series with the tranny return coolant line where the quick disconnect fitting is. The OEM cooler has the male and female quick disconnect fittings built in, and this is how the factory plumbed them up. And good idea on the supply and return inputs for the temp gauge. :D

 

DCP01163.JPG

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Thanks for moving it!

 

Here's what I'm doing for trans cooling on my MJ.

 

 

 

Thats 2 stock aux trans coolers. The fluid comes out of the trans, through the radiator heat exchanger, to the top cooler, down to the bottom cooler, and back to the trans. I have it mounted infront of the electric fan, which I have installed a manual override switch on.

 

I'm also going to be adding a remote filter adapter in the near future. This will use a Fram PH8A oil filter (Mustang 5.0 filter), which means that I won't have to ever drop the pan again!!

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Cool! (hopefully) :brows: . Don't think this would fit with the A/C condenser in place though. :cry: Well, you're doubling the cooling fin area, and it's located in a better spot for air flow than the stock OEM aux cooler location, so theoretically it should be a lot better. Only one way to prove it though, a dual input temp gauge on the supply and return coolant sides.

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Since you brought it up Twisty so I'm not stealing the thread (just adding to the topic) :D , the remote filter is another mod I'm getting ready to do. Since I've already relocated the windshield washer bottle into the inner fender, I'm going to do it like the below since I have the room. These pics were supplied by a stroker forum member. And it will NOT be a Fram, will be a Mobil 1 filter.

 

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That looks like a remote engine oil filter? I can't really tell.

 

I'm going to go the cheap route...nothing fancy.

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

 

Those are the only parts I'd need to mount a remote filter. I'd mount it after all the coolers...to add even more cooling capability. I also want to mount it on the fender wall, behind the battery. I think there is enough room back there.

 

While I'm at it, I should add a remote oil filter, and cooler for the power steering. :nuts:

 

 

What is your reasoning for the upgrade, hornbrod?

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That looks like a remote engine oil filter? I can't really tell.

 

I'm going to go the cheap route...nothing fancy.

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

 

Those are the only parts I'd need to mount a remote filter. I'd mount it after all the coolers...to add even more cooling capability. I also want to mount it on the fender wall, behind the battery. I think there is enough room back there.

 

While I'm at it, I should add a remote oil filter, and cooler for the power steering. :nuts:

 

What is your reasoning for the upgrade, hornbrod?

 

You're talking about a tranny fluid filter. Should have known since we're talking tranny coolers. As far as the reasoning for the remote engine oil filter? The largest oil filter I can use now is the Mobil M1-301. It's mounted horizontally and any filter longer would come too close to the starter + post. Plus it makes a mess everytime I change the filter and it's a PITA to get to. With the remote filter I can just undo the clip, put a little pan under it, and screw it off without spilling. But this is down the road..........

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That looks like a remote engine oil filter? I can't really tell.

 

I'm going to go the cheap route...nothing fancy.

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

 

Those are the only parts I'd need to mount a remote filter. I'd mount it after all the coolers...to add even more cooling capability. I also want to mount it on the fender wall, behind the battery. I think there is enough room back there.

 

While I'm at it, I should add a remote oil filter, and cooler for the power steering. :nuts:

 

What is your reasoning for the upgrade, hornbrod?

 

You're talking about a tranny fluid filter. Should have known since we're talking tranny coolers. As far as the reasoning for the remote engine oil filter? The largest oil filter I can use now is the Mobil M1-301. It's mounted horizontally and any filter longer would come too close to the starter + post. Plus it makes a mess everytime I change the filter and it's a PITA to get to. With the remote filter I can just undo the clip, put a little pan under it, and screw it off without spilling. But this is down the road..........

 

 

That makes sense. Bigger filter is better. Thanks for the explanation!

 

Yes, I was talking about a remote trans fluid filter.

 

I also ordered this from Summit Racing last night.

http://autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.as ... 233&sid=12

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I would think you'd want to monitor the actual temp of the trans, so you'd want the temp before the fluid went through the coolers right?? You know its going to be cooler fluid because your going through two of them.. If your tranny was overheating you might not be able to tell running the temp after the coolers..

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I'm going to mount my temp sensor in the oil pan, and here's why.

 

The trans cooler outlet is usually directly from the torque converter, because it creates the most heat and needs to be cooled quickly before damaging the fluid. This is going to be the hotest you can measure the fluid. The pan collects the fluid in trans, so all of the fluid goes into the pan at one time or another. The cooled fluid from the cooler goes back to the pan. The bleed off from the valves, accumulators, servos, pump regulator, etc...all goes back to the pan. So the pan gets fluid that has absorbed heat from all parts of the transmission not just the super hot Torque converter. In my thinking I would want to know the temp of the trans as a unit and not just the TC. Although if you monitored both temps it would give you a good idea of how well your cooling system is working and also whats going on inside your trans. With that said, the factory mounts the temp sensor on the valve body which is submerged in the pan fluid. So if you want to know the hotest the trans fluid gets then measure it from the cooler outlet. If you want to know the overall temp of the fluid and transmission then measure it at the pan.

 

 

This was posted on my local forum by a Jeep mechanic. He's very informative, and I trust his advise.

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Makes sense. But as a minimum I would install the gauge first and run it around for a week or two under varying conditions to establish a baseline temp to work from. Then put in your coolers and see how it goes from there.

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Got my gauge today. I'm going to drop the oil pan this weekend and put the drain plug/sensor in. Too bad its going to snow........again :roll: :headpop:

 

 

Its pretty spiffy, and I'm excited to see whats happening.

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Another thing to add.

 

If anyone is going to use 2 temp sensors (one for output, and one for input) and have a switch betwen them...it might be an issue. These gauges read resistance from the sending unit, and unless you have a 0 ohm switch...its going to interfere with the gauge reading the ACTUAL temp.

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Another thing to add.

 

If anyone is going to use 2 temp sensors (one for output, and one for input) and have a switch betwen them...it might be an issue. These gauges read resistance from the sending unit, and unless you have a 0 ohm switch...its going to interfere with the gauge reading the ACTUAL temp.

 

I don't think that will be an issue Twisty. Typically thermister temp sensors have a total resistance of 300 ohms across the scale, in your case 100* - 250*. Even the XJ/MJ dash SPST switches like the POWER/COMFORT switch has a resistance of less than two ohms, and that's if it's dirty. :eek: And the tolerance on the gauge itself is about + or - 3*, so it won't matter.

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Another thing to add.

 

If anyone is going to use 2 temp sensors (one for output, and one for input) and have a switch betwen them...it might be an issue. These gauges read resistance from the sending unit, and unless you have a 0 ohm switch...its going to interfere with the gauge reading the ACTUAL temp.

 

I don't think that will be an issue Twisty. Typically thermister temp sensors have a total resistance of 300 ohms across the scale, in your case 100* - 250*. Even the XJ/MJ dash SPST switches like the POWER/COMFORT switch has a resistance of less than two ohms, and that's if it's dirty. :eek: And the tolerance on the gauge itself is about + or - 3*, so it won't matter.

 

Interesting. Thats something I didn't know. Thanks for the info Hornbrod!!

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