MJohnny Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 i did the up grade with a 95 booster and mastercylinder on my 90 MJ I used the original pedal the only problem is that the pedal travels 60 % before i feel the brakes. it stop great though after that any suggestions. :cheers: Thanks for all the info on the upgrade :bowdown: [/b] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 Sounds like you need a way to adjust the rod or replace it with another that is the appropriate length. I have heard of this being done and the adjustment/replacement needed, but I can't remember where I saw it right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 i did the up grade with a 95 booster and mastercylinder on my 90 MJ I used the original pedal the only problem is that the pedal travels 60 % before i feel the brakes. it stop great though after that any suggestions. [/b] I did this on my 91 and the booster arm was a direct bolt-on to my pedal assembly w/o modifications. But the earlier pedal assemblies need a booster arm swap or a new hole drilled in the pedal. Check this link if you haven't seen it yet: http://www.madxj.com/ Also, did you install the 1/4" alum. spacer plate between the booster and the firewall? This will affect pedal travel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJohnny Posted February 13, 2008 Author Share Posted February 13, 2008 what about the adjustable rod in between the master cylinder and the booster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 what about the adjustable rod in between the master cylinder and the booster That rod is for fine tuning an "at rest" (remove any slop) position for contact between the m/c piston and the booster accuator. It's not for adjusting pedal travel. If you swapped in both the 95 booster and 95 m/c, this rod should not be touched. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A-man930 Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 I NEED to upgrade something in my brake system... I'm not even sure what, but it definately doesn't work like it should (kinda scary sometimes :eek: ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 Hey, you think you "have'ta" take the booster to a shop to swap the booster rod?? I have a 96?? (year not sure of) booster. The rod looks like my mj's, but the hole is smaller IIRC... I'd like to do this swap before I bleed the brakes, but not 100% on the rod/prop valve.... I'll get pictures of the BOOSTER rod in a few and post them, so I can be a lil clearer on what to do. :D :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 Hey guys here is my boosters rod.. It looks alot like the mj's but the hole is smaller. I have no idea how long the mj rod is. Would I still have to swap rods with this one???? What year you think this booster is?? It has the xj's prop valve still on it too.. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 jt; It's all explained on the http://www.madxj.com/ site. Just go to Technical, then Brakes. Tells you how to use the 95/96 booster with the older booster arm like yours. Just be sure to use the 95/95 master cylinder with it. I used my existing combo valve and made up new brake lines from the new master to it. I also retained the load leveling valve in the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 OK, so I went out and pulled the brake booster on the 89. Hornbrod I read the madxj site, but I didn't see anything about what I'm going to run into.. The mj's booster rod is about a inch or two to short. They wrote the guy swapped the rods,, do you know how? It seems there's a spring down in there, but I think I could just cut and weld the rod to meet my needs... IDK,,, Anyways here's the pic's I just took of the problem I think I'm going to run into. The 89's booster is on the top side............ Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 i did the up grade with a 95 booster and mastercylinder on my 90 MJ I used the original pedal the only problem is that the pedal travels 60 % before i feel the brakes. it stop great though after that any suggestions. :cheers: Thanks for all the info on the upgrade :bowdown: [/b] Hey man when I pulled the MC off the double booster I was peeping into the booster and it looked like the rod that pushes the MC is adjustable. Might be able to get some needle nose pliers in there and hold it while you screw the end out giving you more push from the pedal.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroader461 Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 I used one from a 96XJ and followed the same site as everyone else...mine bolted right in and i just modifyed the 96 brake light switch to work... jtdesigns...i used the 1/4 aluminum spacer the goes between the firewall and booster and that solved my problem...you should get that also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 I used one from a 96XJ and followed the same site as everyone else...mine bolted right in and i just modifyed the 96 brake light switch to work... jtdesigns...i used the 1/4 aluminum spacer the goes between the firewall and booster and that solved my problem...you should get that also Really? I mean theres a difference of about an inch.. Did you grind the end of the rod down and drill it out? I think I'll grind the end of the newer rod down so the switch will work like original, then just ream the hole out to fit the bushing. Another thing I noticed (it might have been covered in the MADXJ link) is that the big brake line (1/2") is swapped on the newer MC. I'm going to read that link again.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroader461 Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 No i didnt have to grind drill or cut anything...i also used the 96 pedal assembly which mounts the brake light switch in front of the pedal so when its up the switch button is pushed in and the lights are off...when you depress the pedal the switch button comes out and the lights are activated..unlike the older style which sits on that flat spot against the pedal arm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 No i didnt have to grind drill or cut anything...i also used the 96 pedal assembly which mounts the brake light switch in front of the pedal so when its up the switch button is pushed in and the lights are off...when you depress the pedal the switch button comes out and the lights are activated..unlike the older style which sits on that flat spot against the pedal arm $#!+ I don't have the whole pedal unit, but I do have a CNC mills and lathes at my disposal, so I'm just make the damned rod... :headpop: I think I could cut the the two rods and bore me out a collar to fit over it, then weld it, or better yet just a few good tack welds to hold it together... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 You're gonna need the alum spacer plate with the 95/96 booster. It does three things: 1. spaces the bigger booster off the firewall so it doesn't butt up against it, 2. provides a sealing surface for the booster arm gasket, and 3. effectively shortens the new booster arm 'cause the booster is farther away from the pedal. The hole size difference is compensated with a 9/16" x 1/2" bushing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 You're gonna need the alum spacer plate with the 95/96 booster. It does three things: 1. spaces the bigger booster off the firewall so it doesn't butt up against it, 2. provides a sealing surface for the booster arm gasket, and 3. effectively shortens the new booster arm 'cause the booster is farther away from the pedal. The hole size difference is compensated with a 9/16" x 1/2" bushing. Will that bushing still allow me to use the old bolt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroader461 Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 IIRC yes it will...thats what i did...just bought a new sleeve..cost me like $.15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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