Dana 35 Rebuild Questions

[Yellowoctupus]

My '87 NON c-clip rear end is getting noisy (haven't popped the cover off to investigate, but wouldn't be surprised if it's related to the leaking pinion seal....).  On a related note, I just got a c-clip trac-lok 3.73 carrier/pinion from a mid-90's ZJ.  I searched around a bit, and while I THINK the answer is that I can use the entire ZJ carrier assembly in my MJ, has anyone actually confirmed this will work?

 

Before anyone jumps on the "SWAP OUT THE D35" bandwagon, that's easier said than done right now (I have done a handful of Ford 8.8 swaps in the past, but with no 220v welder, limited parts supply etc....  I'd like to consider my options.  Additionally, this is for a 2WD street truck with 235/70/15 (28") tires, FYI. 

 

There's someone selling a complete, new Dana/Spicer Trac Lok on eBay and he seems to have the most definitive answer so far:

 

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https://www.ebay.com/itm/275216159234

 

OEM DANA SPICER Dana 35 3.54 3.73 4.11 4.56 4.88 5.13 And Up TRAC LOK Carrier
27 Spline C clip style axle 1994 to 2000

  This carrier and internal kit are made for Dana 35 Trac Lok rear axles from 1994 to 2000 but can be used in Dana 35 rear axle starting in 1985 as long as it is used as a unit.  The case and the internals are different in Dana 35 axle from 1985 to 1993.  The side gear Journals are bigger from 1985 to 1993 so the parts will not interchange but as a complete carrier it will work.  After 2000 up to 2006 this carrier will also work but you will have to drill out the holes from 3/8 to 7/16 to make it work.

This kit fit Dana 35 rear axle that is found in most YJ TJ and XJ Jeep starting in 1985 to 2000 with 1.55 side gear journals and 3/8 ring gear bolts. Note: After 2001 Dana went to a 7/16 ring gear bolt. You can used the carrier in this listing by drilling the ring gear bolt holes out to 7/16.

 

New OEM Dana Spicer 44590 OR 708142

 

 

 

[ghetdjc320]

You can grab a new grip pro for the same price with free shipping to Guam. Amazon part number GT443527

It’s the powertrax version of the truetrac. Summit also carries it and has great rates for fedex to island (summit will price match Amazon most of the time). Rock auto has these sometimes as well. It will have the c clip windows but otherwise it’s the same setup. I’d suggest grabbing some new set 10 bearings while you’re at it. 

[Yellowoctupus]

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You can grab a new grip pro for the same price with free shipping to Guam. Amazon part number GT443527

 

I already have the Trac-Lok, with the 3.73 gears. I only posted that guy's eBay link as he claimed it would fit c-clip and non c-clip D35's.  Of course, the used one I have needs the clutch pack / spider/side gear rebuild kit.  IIRC, that's about $250 on Rockauto. 

 

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It will have the c clip windows but otherwise it’s the same setup.

 

So the same should be true for the Trac-Lok?  It's backwards compatible?  Just want to be 100% sure before I pull the trigger on getting bearings, etc. 

 

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I’d suggest grabbing some new set 10 bearings while you’re at it. 

 

I'll probably put new bearings and seals everywhere (axles, pinion, carrier) , unless they look pristine.  It'd be nice to do this only once.  The ZJ pinion bearings do look perfect.  I know they're cheap to replace, and I may end up doing it for peace of mind, but it's tempting to try to just swap in the whole pinion/bearing assembly and see how close the pattern is before re-shimming, etc.

 

[Yellowoctupus]

Post revival... hopefully making a decision one way or the other this weekend after a trip to the junkyard, see what they want for a complete rear end, if there's something there worth grabbing (disc brake 31 spline limited slip 8.8, some similar Dana 44 variant).

 

Does anyone know if I ever needed a replacement axle, COULD I swap in a non-c clip axle? (It's unlikely I'd need one, as the bearing doesn't ride on the axle shaft, and I won't have mega traction (slicks etc), but it would be nice to know if they're conveniently similar enough to work.  There's fewer and fewer of these non-c clip rear ends out there if I need a replacement axle someday. Might sway me to a swap if I can't get an axle in the future.  

 

 

[ghetdjc320]

4 hours ago, Yellowoctupus said:

Post revival... hopefully making a decision one way or the other this weekend after a trip to the junkyard, see what they want for a complete rear end, if there's something there worth grabbing (disc brake 31 spline limited slip 8.8, some similar Dana 44 variant).

 

Does anyone know if I ever needed a replacement axle, COULD I swap in a non-c clip axle? (It's unlikely I'd need one, as the bearing doesn't ride on the axle shaft, and I won't have mega traction (slicks etc), but it would be nice to know if they're conveniently similar enough to work.  There's fewer and fewer of these non-c clip rear ends out there if I need a replacement axle someday. Might sway me to a swap if I can't get an axle in the future.  

 

 

Do you mean could you swap in a c clip axle into a non c clip housing? If so, unfortunately the answer is no. The bearing shoulder journal size is incompatible. length and splines are the same though. 

[Yellowoctupus]

Ah, bummer. Yes, that's exactly what I was afraid of, the journal size being different. I was surprised I didn't find this answer on the interwebs doing a Google search. Maybe not that many people running non-c-clip rear ends to have this question come up...  Thanks for the quick answer though. 

 

PM me if there's anything you're looking for up at Lujans. 

[Yellowoctupus]

So, I haven't completely torn down my rear end (I did pull the trigger on the Powertrax carrier however)... but I'm trying to get my bearings/seals/shims on order for the install and am a little confused.  

 

1. The R&P I am using is from a ~94 ZJ, and it has the crush sleeve.  I thought I read that the non-c clip axle assemblies had a solid spacer/shim assembly, rather than the crush sleeve.  Is this correct?  I'm not seeing that variation listed in the Dana Spicer parts manual, although they do list the c-clip/non c-clip variations.  

 

2. Do Dana 35 pinion shims go between the head of the pinion and the inner bearing, or between the inner bearing race and the case?  I'm pretty sure I have at least 1 shim between the pinion and inner bearing, but the Dana Spicer parts manual shows them going between the case and inner race. 

 

3. For the carrier bearings, on the ZJ rear end I pulled out only those large cast iron 'shims' ,  if I purchased a carrier shim kit, where would they go?  It seems like there'd be no room for them, unless the new carrier was produced intentionally  0.020" (+/-) narrow to allow for shimming to get the pattern right.  Unless those factory shims are a weird 2 piece precision shim set?   I didn't measure them to see if they were the same.  

 

4. I wasn't planning on replacing the axle bearings and seals at this point, unless I find them to be worn when I pull them out.  Will I have any issues (sealing, etc) with popping the axle assemblies out, and popping them back in?  (I have a slide puller and the adapters, etc.)

 

[Yellowoctupus]

Anyone? I'd like to get some parts on order as soon as possible, I would greatly appreciate any advice. Thanks!

[89 MJ]

I can only answer question 4. You should be fine reusing the axle bearings and seals provided they are in good shape. 

[ghetdjc320]

For question 3: you may be able to use the master shims that you picked up from the ZJ but you’re typically better off just running a custom shim stack to set your backlash. Run the shims outside of the carrier bearings. Make sure to get some preload in the shim stack once you get to zero lash. 
 

As for the other items, note the order of assembly as you remove the components from your axle. There were a few variation in assembly and realistically, there are a few variations that work when it comes to getting your gearset aligned properly. Your powertrax LSD should also have some assembly instructions to follow for the carrier. If not, use the Truetrac D35 manual. As for axle seals and bearings, with bolt in axles, they are easier to service down the road than a c clip axle 

 

Home Depot is a good resource for brake part cleaner, shop rags ect. 

[Yellowoctupus]

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I can only answer question 4. You should be fine reusing the axle bearings and seals provided they are in good shape. 

Thanks, I wasn't sure how that assembly sealed in the housing, whether they'd get messed up when I pulled them out or not.  

 

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For question 3: you may be able to use the master shims that you picked up from the ZJ but you’re typically better off just running a custom shim stack to set your backlash. Run the shims outside of the carrier bearings. Make sure to get some preload in the shim stack once you get to zero lash. 

Sounds good. I'm still not sure whether I should purchase a 2nd inner pinion bearing for setup purposes, and put the pinion shims under the bearing, or press the bearing right against the head of the pinion gear, and shim the outer race to housing for depth.  

 

I got my "Powertrax" in today.  Yeah, instead they sent me a ring and pinion for a Ford 9.75".  Completely useless.  Now I have to figure out that mess through Amazon, hope the package doesn't get even MORE damaged going back to Amazon for my refund, and then try to complete the purchase a 2nd time.  Not too thrilled about that goof up.  

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Home Depot is a good resource for brake part cleaner, shop rags ect. 

They're by FAR the cheapest place for oil changes too.  Way better prices than Napa (I recently found).  I originally purchased a filter and oil for my wife's car at Napa, it came up to over $60!   I think HD was under $40. Not that $20 makes me feel rich, but it's a large % difference.

[Eagle_SX4]

2 hours ago, Yellowoctupus said:

I'm still not sure whether I should purchase a 2nd inner pinion bearing for setup purposes, and put the pinion shims under the bearing, or press the bearing right against the head of the pinion gear, and shim the outer race to housing for depth

Keep the shims where they are at and use your old bearings as set up bearings. Given you can remove them with out damage and they are not completely worn out. I used a Dremel with a sanding drum to open up the inner diameter of the bearing to be a slip fit instead of a press fit. You can buy setup bearings but they tend to be more than new bearings.

[ghetdjc320]

1 hour ago, Eagle_SX4 said:

Keep the shims where they are at and use your old bearings as set up bearings. Given you can remove them with out damage and they are not completely worn out. I used a Dremel with a sanding drum to open up the inner diameter of the bearing to be a slip fit instead of a press fit. You can buy setup bearings but they tend to be more than new bearings.

 

This is a good trick that speeds up the process and gives great results.