KJ guys...LBJ replacements

[mjeff87]

The dust boots on both of my KJ's LBJ's are ripped and I'm pretty sure there's just pixie dust inside them instead of grease at this point (the steering makes a lovely creaking sound when turning the wheels in both directions).  Seems like a pretty straightforward job to me.  Will my pot metal Harbor Freight ball joint tool kit be sturdy enough to pop the old BJ's out of the knuckle, or should I just go rent a decent one before I start?  I do have a 20T press if not.  Any other tips/tricks?  I've already replaced both uppers via new UCA's about a year ago.

 

edit:  any particular brand (and part #) I should purchase to replace?

[Pete M]

from what I've read on KJ pages, do not go cheap, either with the tool or the joints themselves.    I replaced mine by replacing the lowers with junkyard arms that had brand new joints in them.   no idea what brand they are, but they were new and "free" (I was replacing the arms anyway due to rust)

[gogmorgo]

I got a good impression of the Napa TTX ball joints I’ve handled, although I don’t really have long term reviews on them. I think they’re made by Mevotech. Mopars are available on Rockauto but they’re not exactly cheap. 
I’m inclined to just do the ball joint. Not as much cause to go get an alignment after the fact than if you change the whole control arm. I’ve also had real poor luck trying to extract the camber bolts from Mopars, and they’re a lot more expensive to replace than you’d expect when you have to cut them out. 

[jeff351]

I'm curious how well your HF ball joint press works. I almost bought one last week but decided to just rent one for free from local auto parts store.

 

[mjeff87]

I've used it a couple times before.  It's pretty decent on ujoints.  I tried using it to press out/in new UCA bushings (axle end) on a D30...without much success.

 

I'm going to run up to NAPA today and see what they have.  Their website doesn't show the TTX joints.

[AZJeff]

I replaced the entire lower arms on the wife’s KJ with Moog from Rock Auto.   However, my main motivation was dried/cracked arm bushings, and having a new BJ already in the new arm was a bonus.

 

Rubber bushings live a hard life here in PHX, as road surface temps regularly get to over 140 degrees.

[gogmorgo]

17 hours ago, mjeff87 said:

I've used it a couple times before.  It's pretty decent on ujoints.  I tried using it to press out/in new UCA bushings (axle end) on a D30...without much success.

 

I'm going to run up to NAPA today and see what they have.  Their website doesn't show the TTX joints.

I just took a look though Prolink and I’m only seeing the TTX upper control arm and ball joint listed. Sorry about that, I should have looked before making the suggestion. I haven’t done much with KJs, but the TTX is what I used on my 3/4 ton GMC when I did them last year, and there’s a few of the TTX in the work fleet now.

 

I will say that an old boss liked to buy the cheapest stuff Napa sold, and it didn’t look great when it showed up, and I’ve changed the same parts again couple trucks more than once within a few years. I tried to go for a more middle of the road approach and haven’t really noticed that issue. 
 

 

[mjeff87]

Are you guys talking about the lower control arms or the uppers?  The UCA's have the balljoints in them (welded) and aren't serviceable seperately.  The lower ball joints press into the knuckle (from the top)not the CA.

 

@gogmorgo...no worries, thanks.  I might have to shelve this project for a couple weeks anyway.  I was going to do them this weekend, but got roped into driving down to Tidewater to help a buddy work on his Taco, then I'm out of town most of next week for work.

 

 

[Pete M]

13 hours ago, AZJeff said:

I replaced the entire lower arms on the wife’s KJ with Moog from Rock Auto.   However, my main motivation was dried/cracked arm bushings, and having a new BJ already in the new arm was a bonus.

 

Rubber bushings live a hard life here in PHX, as road surface temps regularly get to over 140 degrees.

 

rubber can last longer in the dry heat if you regularly slather them with a coating of sacrificial grease.   

[AZJeff]

1 minute ago, Pete M said:

 

rubber can last longer in the dry heat if you regularly slather them with a coating of sacrificial grease.   

Grease, plus airborne desert dust = tan glop over every item so treated.  Then I have to get under the KJ and wash the grease off before applying a new coat

 

Rubber issues aside, you should see the bottom side of the wife's 2004 Liberty.   It looks almost brand new, with no corroded bolts and all original chassis paint still fully intact.  When I do have to work on it, it's like taking apart a car that is less than 6 months old from places like Minnesota.

[Pete M]

I didn't say it didn't have drawbacks.   but it will protect the rubber.   

[dasbulliwagen]

As a former dealer tech that replaced the KJ lower balljoints as a recall, they arent hard to do, and i never had to use a press to replace them. I always used an air hammer with a chisel bit to get them out, and a hammer to put them back in. I could have them both replaced and back on the road in 45 minutes, especially the 2wd ones. 

[mjeff87]

Thanks @dasbulliwagen.  Sorry for the late response, I had to spend the last several days out of town for work (at VA Beach.....it didn't suck, lol).

 

I might tackle this project this weekend.  I'm off all next week for vacation and holiday, wife and I are heading up to PA on Wednesday for a couple days.  I do have to help a buddy put new hubs/bearings on his F250 as well.  That should be fun.