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At idle RPM drop and feels like its about to stall


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I've attached a video, but I don't know if it comes through well.

 

The truck idles between 750-1000 RPM, but occasionally it drops under 750 RPM and sound like its about to stall, then it  jump back to 750-1000 RPM

 

I've gone through post on the forums about idling and stalling issues, but so far nothing has worked for me.

 

So far I've:

checked Bolts on the intake manifold are tight.

New IAC

replaced the Vacuum harnesses

new fuel pump/filter

new spark plugs/wires

new Volvo 746 injectors

disconnect the vacuum line to the EGR solenoid and plug it 

 

Cruiser Tips I've done:

1 – Ground refreshing

2 – C101 connector refreshing

3 – Connector and relay/receptacle refreshing

5 – Checking sensor grounds

6 – Sensor ground upgrade

8 – TPS testing and adjusting

11 – Throttle body and IAC cleaning

 

Any suggestions on what I should check next

 

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Thanks for the suggestions cruiser and pizzaman, I'll go check on em tomorrow if it doesn't rain all day. 

 

Also I was checking my fuel pressure at the rail yesterday and noticed that when the rpms drop the fuel pressure increases from 31 psi to 34 psi and then goes right back to 31 psi when the idling returns to normal. I don't know if that means anything, or if that helps narrow down the potential cause.

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On 7/10/2023 at 12:31 AM, cruiser54 said:

Your EGR valve could not be seating fully and cause an internal vacuum leak even with the hose plugged.

 

You might want to make sure your throttle body is set correctly and that the o-ring on your IAC is good. 

 

What do you mean when you say the throttle body is set correctly?

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I replaced the gasket for the egr and reseated it. I also replaced the o-ring on the IAC. No change.

 

I checked the O2 sensor according to this post by cruiser

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/how-test-o2-sensor-renix-155971/#post2160456

 

I only have a digital multimeter so I couldn't test O2 sensor voltage, but I got

11.9 volts on the orange wire

5.0 volts on the black wire

0.5 ohms on the ground 

 

Any ideas for next steps?

 Is it time to make sure the throttle body is set correctly? And it's that tip 14?

 

https://cruiser54.com/?p=94

 

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Yes. Tip 14.

 

But, are you sure the EGR is sealing internally? Did you test it for that? 

 

Best way to test the O2 sensor is with the REM or doing an ohms test across the red and black wire with the sensor unplugged. 

I think 8 ohms is good? 

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12 hours ago, cruiser54 said:

Yes. Tip 14.

 

But, are you sure the EGR is sealing internally? Did you test it for that? 

 

Best way to test the O2 sensor is with the REM or doing an ohms test across the red and black wire with the sensor unplugged. 

I think 8 ohms is good? 

Oh sorry, i misunderstood. I thought you meant checking if the EGR was sealing to the manifold. How would I test if the EGR is sealing internally?

 

Is REM renix engine monitor?

 https://nickintimedesign.com/shop/ 

I don't have one yet, but it's on my list 

 

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13 minutes ago, cruiser54 said:

good luck with that.....

Looking online most of the reviews of aftermarket EGR valves are pretty bad, any recommendations or an I better off trying to find a good one at a junkyard?

 

Sorry, didn't see the post you linked

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  • 3 weeks later...

Pretty interesting topic... I have a REM II, and noticed the same symptoms as the OP, but the difference is I could monitor all the engine parameters. Turns out it always happens when the REM says that the EGR is ON, at idle. As soon as the EGR turns off, the truck runs smooth again. And actually, the EGR cycles on and off a lot on idle. The EGR valve isn't stuck, and I've cleaned it, and it's also an original one. I also don't know if it's related, but I always have a lean condition on open loop that stabilizes in closed loop. Short term fuel trims always at 128, and long term at around 91 lately IIRC. Haven't found a vacuum leak yet, and all that data is from a 1988 MJ, 2.5L manual, with a 1986 manual 2.5 ECU. Hope that helps.

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42 minutes ago, OldSch88L said:

Pretty interesting topic... I have a REM II, and noticed the same symptoms as the OP, but the difference is I could monitor all the engine parameters. Turns out it always happens when the REM says that the EGR is ON, at idle. As soon as the EGR turns off, the truck runs smooth again. And actually, the EGR cycles on and off a lot on idle. The EGR valve isn't stuck, and I've cleaned it, and it's also an original one. I also don't know if it's related, but I always have a lean condition on open loop that stabilizes in closed loop. Short term fuel trims always at 128, and long term at around 91 lately IIRC. Haven't found a vacuum leak yet, and all that data is from a 1988 MJ, 2.5L manual, with a 1986 manual 2.5 ECU. Hope that helps.

How does it do at 2k rpm steady? Same issues?

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