tdtony

@87MJTIM yeah those are what I'm looking for! That gives me a little more context for trying to find a part and modifying it like eagles out. Any chance you're willing to part with those?

Did you just have to cut Chrysler clip to fit? Or what was the process like?

I lost the arm rest mounting clip, parts number 8&9 in the parts diagram I attached. Does anyone have pictures or dimensions for the part so I can try and DIY it? I've searched the part number and nothing comes up and I haven't had any luck at the junk yards near me

Looking to buy a driver's side vent window, one of the ones that pivots open. I've seen a couple on eBay for $150-$200+, which seems a little steep to me.

Yeah, I'm gonna head to a junk yard tomorrow, but I don't have high hopes

Just found this on eBay, what's a reasonable price for one of these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/256465605352?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=256465605352&targetid=2512152189032&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9197851&poi=&campaignid=21214286338&mkgroupid=161030074701&rlsatarget=pla-2512152189032&abcId=9407521&merchantid=653412184&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-5y1BhC-ARIsAAM_oKl2dl5KdfWKY3ywmvSO7LaRS_i-cVgArvR74Y6KyNo0ktEmfpxjvx4aArbfEALw_wcB

I was thinking about adding cruise control to my truck, and I was told the vacuum reservoir are pretty hard to find any more. Does anyone have pictures of the stock reservoir, or any specs about them? I was wondering if I could substitute a generic reservoir. I also found these reservoirs from crown that look similar, but I have no idea how many ports they have, or what the internals are like. https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Auto-52004366-1991-1996-Reservoir/dp/B00A4HXJJS?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I found another thread on here that suggests ATP Y-924 which is 77" long and for 88-90 4WD, but should work for my truck

I found a post, that has the part number as 53004953 or 53001990, but I can't seem to find anyone selling it

No cruise control, and it it's the plastic snap on connector at the gauge cluster not the metal screw on

The stock speedometer cable in my truck bound up and the tip that goes into the transfer case broke off. I ordered a replacement part from Rockauto, but the cable was too long. The cable that was on my truck was 70", the one rock auto sells is 94". I've been looking online but a lot of the websites don't have the cable length or good pictures so I can't tell if they would connect to the gauge cluster correctly. Does anyone have parts number or a suggestion for a replacement speedo cable?

Well I might have got ripped off and wasted everybody's time. The flattest spot on my driveway is about 1°. Measuring the upper ball joints both sides hovered between 7° and 8°. I just replaced all the a/c components and I'm gonna take it to a different shop to get it recharged, so i'll see if they can check the alignment @gogmorgo the tabs for the upper control arm bushing were really flimsy, I had to jam a socket in there to stop it from crushing when I was pressing the old bushings out, so there's probably a little messed up. I torqued everything to spec on the ground but didn't drive it or weight it at all.

It's hard to get pictures while I'm measuring, but are these approximate the right places to measure? I'm getting about 7.5" in the front and 7 3/4" in the back. Based on your Numbers the back is on the low end of being in spec and the front is too tall out of spec. I replaced the shocks, could those be causing the problem?

Yeah I just took it to a shop and had them do the alignment, and they told me about the negative caster. I'll test it myself, does the truck need to be on a level surface? My driveways got a little angle to it so I'm not sure I'll be able to get a good measurement. And can I use the level on my phone or am I better off buying a tool to measure it? If I can use my phone where should I place it? Thanks for all the help!

I just went out and measured the control arms from the center of one bolt to the center of the other bolt, the lower is about 16" and the upper is about 15" Which according to the Cherokee form is about the stock length https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/how-accurate-arm-length-chart-122740/ What else could be affecting my caster?

@gogmorgo yeah I changed the bushing in the axle

I've got 3 1/8" shims in there and still have negative caster. That's as many shims as I could fit and still get a bolt through the lower control arm

I replaced all the bushings on my truck, and found it easier to replace the control arms, rather then press out the bushings and press new ones in. After that I took my truck to Firestone and had them do an alignment. The caster was a degree of 2 negative, so the told me to shim the lower control arms forward. After getting the shims and crawling under the truck I found that the lower control arms were already shimmed as far forward as possible. https://www.1aauto.com/jeep-cherokee-comanche-wagoneer-front-upper-and-lower-6-piece-control-arm-set-trq-psa71577/i/1asfk05980/1165528/1987 These are the control arms I bought, I don't know if the uppers are too long or the lowers too short or something else entirely. Even though my truck isn't lifted I was thinking about buying adjustable lower control arms, just to fix the caster and help driveability. Anyone know what could have caused the caster to be off, or any suggestions on how to fix it without dropping a few hundred on new control arms?

Thanks @ghetdjc320, the nuts came off pretty easy after some pb and I got the new shocks on no problem. Thanks for the advice!

I read that thread a while ago and I think it scared me into going straight to the splitter. I'll see if it breaks lose easily this weekend and if not I'll split it. Looking at that thread someone mention that the stud is threaded M12X1.75, so over got that as a back up

The nuts don't look too bad, but I read an old thread on here where eagle said something along the lines of not messing with it because if you break the upper stud off your screwed. I'll see if I can find it

I've read a little on the forum about replacing the rear shocks, and I'm going to use a nut splitter to break the upper nuts off the stud, but what size and pitch are the nuts so I can't get a replacement? Also do I need to jack up the truck to replace the shocks? I think I saw a video a while ago of someone doing it with the truck on the ground, but now I can't find it.

Thanks pizza man, that's close enough to what mine are doing, I'm not going to worry about it

Thanks!

Quick question for anyone that has the euratech 7180 dome lights. I just installed them and they're working a little differently then some of the write up say. I think they're supposed to be Down-light on Middle - light off Top - switched with the door Or maybe reverse that is I've got it upside down Right now I have the same function in the middle and top position, both turn on and off when the door opens. It's not a big deal, but I was wondering if this is supposed to be happening, or if maybe I got a bad light, or more wiring issues. I was also wondering if anyone knows what this pink and black wire in the same loom is for?