Underside of drivers side carpet is wet

[Classy Comanche]

A recent discovery I've made is my driver side carpet is wet. My floor mat is fine. I was able to peel the carpet back a little but couldn't go any further due to it being set in place for years and years. I looked up towards the fuse box, felt around and looked under the dash. Not wet. I looked at the plastic trim near the floor and where the door is. Also nothing. My carpet on the top is damp but beneath is wet? Its not soaked. But where on earth is it coming from!? There's like a padding that separates the thr carpet from the bare metal and from me wedging my hand up under the metal and padding its not wet towards the top but as I would move down the foam padding was wet. I'd say around where you simply rest your feet. Roughly on the plastic ridged peice integrated into the carpet. Nothing seems to be dripping?

[Classy Comanche]

So update: I believe I found it. I kept patting the floor up towards the front and it was ever so slightly damp. I moved back and as I moved back towards my seat up against the trim like where the door meets the frame it was wet. Like wet wet. Come to find out it was my back window leaking drop for drop of water, running down my wall and onto my carpet. And it matches just up against the trim where the door meets. So what it's done is wet the carpet and make it run down towards my feet. What is the solution for this? I don't want to rip out the back glass and replace it. Is there anything I could put there to permanent stop it? Right now I got several rags lining the floor and one wedged between the window and the wall so it soaks into the rag

[Pete M]

the proper fix is to pull the glass, remove all the old urethane adhesive, fix the rust that's likely there, and reseal it.   

 

you're going to need to pull the carpet to even attempt to dry it out, so I'd advise doing that first, then do the window, then check for other leaks and fix any rust you find, then put the interior back.  it's a royal pain, but it's the proper way to know it's done proper.   

[Classy Comanche]

I was afraid that is the case. However. I have some more news. The leak is tiny. And the carpet isn't wet underneath! (Thank god) so I scrubbed the rags on the carpet and wedged my hand under best a could and the installation under is not wet. So this is a very recent leak. It's so small for now I am holding off on doing window/seal replacement. Is there something I could just put a dollop of in the area needed on the outside and inside? The rag I have wedged between the wall and window has 100% completely stopped the leak and the rags lining the floor is almost completely dry. 

[gogmorgo]

No. Putting a “temporary” dollop is a good way to trap water and then rust. The only fix is to cut it out, address any metal issues, and glue it back in. Talk to a local glass shop, it shouldn’t be expensive.

You might even find you can just gently push the glass out all the way of the adhesive has failed badly enough, then it’s just a case of peeling off the remaining adhesive, running a bead of windsheild urethane around the outside, and setting it back on (with tape to hold it up) although it’s maybe not the best idea to attempt it unsupervised if you don’t have auto glass experience. 

For the time being, get a desiccant pack to toss under the seat. Should be able to get at a hardware store, maybe even a larger better stocked grocery store. They sell them for controlling moisture and odours in closets, safes, etc. Some of them can be “recharged” by baking in the oven for a bit. Honestly it’s a good idea even if you don’t have a leak problem. I tossed a one under each seat in the ZJ and quit having the inside of the windows frost up on me in the winter. 

[Classy Comanche]

Yeah...this is all true. I called a few auto glass repair shops and they said they couldn't get the bezel or the gasket or whatever the thing is called that goes around the glass. Are these things really that hard to find? I also went out today after work when I got home and it made its self more evident. It's not leaking from the corner. It's coming from here and I think from the sliding glass like on the opposite passenger side of the sliding glass. I think that part went bad too. But I'm trying urgently to try and find a auto glass place that carries what I need. And it's leaking in from those spots, running along the black thing the glass sits on and it drips off the edge onto the wall, past the speaker and onto the floor

[gogmorgo]

There’s a rubber gasket that goes around the outside. It’s not necessary to the function, just a trim piece. You can usually get away with reusing, although if they sit out in the sun they can get hard and difficult to work with, like anything else made of rubber. 

[Pete M]

yup, they are absolutely not available new anymore   but they are reusable.    usually they get peeled off before even trying to cut out the window.  all depends on how much adhesive was used to glue in the window and this hoe much oozed out into the trim.  start near the top corner and get the sides by the corner free, then work ont he corner and then along the top.  leave the bottom corners for last since they are the trickiest and by then you'll have the most slack to work with. 

[fiatslug87]

And be patient with it, they can rip quite easily.

[Classy Comanche]

Before I do anything like that myself I will take it somewhere professionally. There is a place close to where I live that wants to take a look at it. The glass shop does car window repair and regular homes. I do not trust myself with such a tedious removal. IF they patch it first I will try that first and roll with it. Now. If that fails what are my options? Is it full removal? If so I will more than likely do a full aftermarket replacement. I couldn't even find anything online for a aftermarket replacement. I think if neither of these work I will be willing to post up for sale. My issue is patience lol. I get impatient quickly. But. Before I spend major money on a full on replacement or ultimately and unfortunately sell I would like to see if a "bandaid" will work very well. Reason I say that is because reviews online with the permatex and loctite and others have said its stopped leaking altogether. I'm still taking it in to have the interior examined all the while having these leaks filled in. If you guys know of a good aftermarket rear window that works well and looks good. I would love to know! I appreciate the feedback and words of wisdom. Working down the list of how costly and complicated things get

[Pete M]

removing the trim will teach you patience.    I'd never removed one either before that first one.    I'm removed maybe a dozen now and most have been easy and straight forward.  a couple were hard and at least one got left behind in the junkyard because someone used waaaaaay too much glue on the window and had effectively glued the trim in too.  

 

the only new rear window available is made by CRL and is a 4 pane slider window.  I just installed one in the truck I'm help fixing up. 

 

but if you're dead set on slapping some caulking in there, I guess I recommend some black RTV. 

[Classy Comanche]

Awsome thank you! Yes I will try black rtv first. The trim isn't cracked or chipped. It looks fine even. But weatherstripping can look normal but leak very badly. For me it looks like it's the one spot showed before and maybe one other spot. I cannot verify for sure. With a professional eye messing with it can definitely spot a leak that I didn't catch onto. Is there a specific brand or type of rtv I should purchase? I see several kinds. Automotive only? I just don't know what kind to buy. I know they all do the same thing.

[Pete M]

you can't possibly see where it is leaking if the trim is in place.  probably not with the trim removed either.  maybe on the inside of the truck? 

 

the good news is that you don't need the trim with the aftermarket window.    so if it all fails horribly, none of the factory stuff is needed. 

[Pete M]

if you don't yet own a 5-way scraper, go buy a nice (and simple) one.   one of the best tools ever made.  (it's in the painting section at lowes)  no need to buy anything called a 9-way or whatever the more complicated versions are called. the basic is best for our purposes.   (but do buy a quality one)

[Classy Comanche]

I do also assume that this is the exact window and looking around this is like.....the only one I could find let alone in stock

 

https://www.dkhardware.com/duo-vent-four-panel-slider-with-solar-glass-for-1986-1992-jeep-comanche-edv700s-product-43373.html

[Pete M]

yup, that's it.   

[gogmorgo]

If it’s leaking then either the bond between urethane and paint (or glass) has failed, in which case there’s a strong chance it will continue failing and the window will fall right out, or else the paint/metal has failed, and there’s rust happening. RTV will not hold your window in, and it will create a rust trap that will cause you bigger problems down the road. Temporary fixes that work will become permanent, and this is not one you want to have that happen to. If mitigating it as you’re doing with a rag is working, that’s going to be a better temporary solution than half-assing a repair. Pair it with the dessicant packs if it’s going to be a longer term thing. 

For someone who knows what they’re doing, cutting the window out and gluing it back in will be quick and easy. A reasonable glass shop will also sand down and primer any rust spots that exist. It shouldn’t cost you too much, and then you’ll know the problem is fixed.

[Classy Comanche]

Well I had it looked at today. He looked at it and told me to bring it back the next day I'm off so that's like next Thursday. They said they could try and cut me a solid window of glass. I don't know how that will work. Can they make a custom seal for it? Is that something glass companies do? Because I told them I found a aftermarket back glass. They can absolutely put it in. I haven't really made a decision as to what i want to do since they never really told me much. The guy that works on really old trucks wasn't there. So that's why he told me to come back. They had a old Chevy c10 in the shop curing and a old thunderbird curing as well. I have high hopes for these people. I'm just going to see what they also say. After all my local Chevy dealership uses them so if they're good for them they must be good for an everyday person. Also when you look between then rubber gasket on the outside and the window you can see like a peice of trim missing. So it has to be coming from there hence why I am sort of considering just pull the gasket down a bit and put some rtv there. 

[Pete M]

there is no reason why the current window can't be removed and resealed properly. 

[Classy Comanche]

They can remove it and reseal it? I thought the trim is impossible to find? 

[fiatslug87]

The glass is in a metal frame, the metal frame is sealed to the body with urethane sealant then the rubber trim piece is applied. Pete meant the glass with frame can be removed, the mounting surfaces cleaned and prepped then the window reinstalled.

[Classy Comanche]

OH! Yeah I'll definitely talk to them about that when I go back. I know these guys know what they are doing I just don't think they've ever worked on a mj before and know how the back glass is. I apologize I did get confused there. 

[Pete M]

the rubber trim can be removed by you today without disturbing the actual window.  it just peels out (sorta).  it is inconsequential to the glass mounting or the sealing out of the rain.  it's just a beauty piece.   (ok, so technically it helps keep debris out of the window mounting channel so it's not purely a beautification item ) 

[gogmorgo]

These guys are probably thinking that the glass is held in by the rubber trim. It used to be how most windows were held in. You do still see it on vehicles that have been in production for a long time, mostly heavy equipment, in which case if it’s leaking you’d probably need a new gasket.

But that’s not the case with the Comanche. It’s just a normal piece of automotive glass that gets urethaned in place, just like the windsheild would be.

Unless your glass is damaged you shouldn’t need new glass cut. What they’ll do is cut the old urethane

holding it in, peel off any traces of the old urethane, clean up any metal or paint issues, run a new bead of urethane around the edge and set it back in place.
The glass isn’t flat. So unless they’ve got real fancy equipment they won’t be able to reproduce it accurately. But if they know what they’re doing then they shouldn’t do any damage to the old glass. 

[Classy Comanche]

I'll definitely run that by them when I go back this week. Out of curiosity would it possible for them to peel off the outside rubber peice and put new rtv on top of the old one and the put the rubber peice back on without the removal? I'm not trying to cut corners. I most definitely want it done right. I also worry they may mess up my head liner like rip it down or such. They definitely saw the window is bowed out. But when I go back I'll talk to the bossman that deals with the older stuff. The guy I spoke to when I went earlier worked on more home windows and cutting windows for homes but does automotive stuff as well. I just don't think he's seen a window like the Comanche before. Besides I know these guys are good. They have phenomenal ratings and had old cars curing in the shop. Also I finally got all the moisture out of my truck. Yesterday and Friday when I started the truck my radio wouldn't come on. It was lit up green but had no station numbers or anything. Then I drove down the road with my windows, back glass slider and air on full blast with the belt squealing down the road for about 5 minutes then the radio just flicked on. So the moisture is really scaring me. The steering wheel was like wet and sticky and the driver side window, half of the back and front window was fogged up. I've left thr windows cracked for the last 2 days and am probably going to leave them cracked until I get it fixed. For now it's dry on the inside and I have a car cover snugly over the cab so water cannot get in until Wednesday. It also didn't help after it rained the low was like 86 and high 92. Even when I opened the door I could feel the moisture. But now it's all aired out with a car cover snugly on top