No head lights/ cluster lights

[Myles Cyncora]

Hey everyone, haven't posted on here for while. I am attempting to diagnose no head lights/brights. While disconnecting the plug the red wire broke off from corrosion, which i have heard these plugs are bad for that. Is that red wire my problem for at least no headlights? If so why doesn't it look like it connects to anything in that plug? I have a parts truck I can cut this plug off or should I get a pack of new connectors and re do both side of the plug? 

 

As far no cluster lights i have no idea what to start looking for

All the running lights work and turn signals work. 

 

Thank you 

[91Pioneer]

That power wire is for fog lights, and as you can see, the red wire doesn't continue in the harness on the other side. You can just electrical tape that wire up and ignore it.

 

Pull the connector apart, there will be corrosion in there. Clean it up with DeOXIT see https://cruiser54.com/?p=35

 

The instrument lights are not related to this plug, that's a separate issue. Go check your instrument panel ground https://cruiser54.com/?p=110

[eaglescout526]

Don’t forget to check your fuses. 

[gogmorgo]

If the red wire corroding through and falling off is a sign of other issues with the connector, then it could well be the source of the issues. That said generally you lose one connector pin at a time, not both high and low beams at once, unless it’s possible you just didn’t notice one failing if you don’t drive much at night. But it would make me look upwards to where one issue could take out both circuits. Simplest answer usually being correctest and so on.
A VERY common occurrence is the headlight switch contacts go bad over time, frequently they get very hot and start melting things, quite often they catch fire. Installing a headlight relay harness can go a long way to alleviating the risk, as it substantially reduces current through the switch (but also screws with DRL if equipped) That would be the first place I’d look for no headlights at all, check to see what the connector looks like, and if you’ve got proper power in and out of the switch. After mine caught fire I went looking for another connector and the dozen or so junkyard XJs I checked all had melted connectors.

I’m also going to be that guy and ask if you tried rotating the knob on the switch to see if the dimmer changes anything in regards to dash lights. The rheostat also doesn’t age gracefully and can develop dead spots and poor contact. Good news is it’s the same part to replace as the headlight switch. Two birds stoned at once if it’s your issue.

I believe Cruiser also has a tip for upgrading the dash ground. Might be of interest. Cruiser54.com.

[cruiser54]

[Myles Cyncora]

15 hours ago, gogmorgo said:

If the red wire corroding through and falling off is a sign of other issues with the connector, then it could well be the source of the issues. That said generally you lose one connector pin at a time, not both high and low beams at once, unless it’s possible you just didn’t notice one failing if you don’t drive much at night. But it would make me look upwards to where one issue could take out both circuits. Simplest answer usually being correctest and so on.
A VERY common occurrence is the headlight switch contacts go bad over time, frequently they get very hot and start melting things, quite often they catch fire. Installing a headlight relay harness can go a long way to alleviating the risk, as it substantially reduces current through the switch (but also screws with DRL if equipped) That would be the first place I’d look for no headlights at all, check to see what the connector looks like, and if you’ve got proper power in and out of the switch. After mine caught fire I went looking for another connector and the dozen or so junkyard XJs I checked all had melted connectors.

I’m also going to be that guy and ask if you tried rotating the knob on the switch to see if the dimmer changes anything in regards to dash lights. The rheostat also doesn’t age gracefully and can develop dead spots and poor contact. Good news is it’s the same part to replace as the headlight switch. Two birds stoned at once if it’s your issue.

I believe Cruiser also has a tip for upgrading the dash ground. Might be of interest. Cruiser54.com.

Thank you for the advice. I did clean up the connections on that plug. Then thought it was the high beam switch not making connection. So I got under the dash and instantly found the connector for the high beans wasn't plugged in at all. Plugged it in and at least the headlights and high beams work. I would like a diagram for installing a headlight switch relay. 

[cruiser54]

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS

HEADLIGHT HARNESS UPGRADE

NOVEMBER 17, 2015 SALAD 65 COMMENTS EDIT

It’s easy to install a supplemental headlight harness.

From the factory, the voltage to the headlight bulbs travels from the battery, through connectors, inside the cabin, to the headlamp switch, and then back out to the lamps via undersized wire and more connectors. It’s not uncommon to find only 10.5 volts at the lamps.

The supplemental harness is installed so that it provides battery voltage to the lamps and is just triggered by the factory wiring. The result is about 35% brighter headlamps and headlight switches that don’t melt and burn out.

 

Ebay has the harnesses. 2 headlamp H4 with ceramic connectors is what you want. You’ll likely be warned that the harness won’t fit your Jeep. It will.

Absolutely plug and play:

• Remove grille and headlamp bulbs. I fed my harnesses from the passenger side starting between the battery and the back of the headlamp housing, over to the driver side.
• Plug the driver side bulb into the new harness.
• Attach the new harness’s ground wire under one of the small bolts on the radiator support after scraping the paint off under it.
• Attach the harness to the existing harness behind the grille working toward the passenger side.
• Plug the new harness plug into passenger headlamp.
• Plug original headlamp plug into receptacle on new harness.
• Attach the ground for the passenger side just like you did the driver side under a radiator support bolt.
• Attach relays with provided bracket on the passenger side inner fender.
• Connect power wires to battery.

[gogmorgo]

2 hours ago, Myles Cyncora said:

Thank you for the advice. I did clean up the connections on that plug. Then thought it was the high beam switch not making connection. So I got under the dash and instantly found the connector for the high beans wasn't plugged in at all. Plugged it in and at least the headlights and high beams work. I would like a diagram for installing a headlight switch relay. 

Check out this thread: 

I’m sure there’s a better reference out there but basically it’ll link you to this: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm

 

And this diagram:

 

Or if you don’t want to make your own, follow cruiser’s instructions with any commercially available H4 relay harness. Yes, they aren’t H4 bulbs (unless you want them to be) but they use the same socket.
 

Note that on any vehicle equipped with daytime running lights, like every vehicle sold or imported to Canada after Dec 1 1989 is required to be, it will interfere with the DRL function. It’s easily overcome with a couple basic splices, but it is still something to be aware of.