Sway Bar or No Sway Bar?

[Bomberjeep]

My sway bar end links are barely attached to the sway bar.  I was wondering how many people just ditch the bar?

[AeroNautical]

If you drive it on road, absolutely keep the sway bar. If your talking about the rubber bushings, they are cheaply replaced, about 8 bucks a link:

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5559168&cc=1181720&pt=7580&jsn=857&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1esw98pF26vehMm%2FGG3C%2Fl2QOXSJubi7WSpUmUSdg3OxWOs2f5z9h422EONy36O0PjCuaadDqI1r86y%2FvJ1lBqxeBNhI9mMX8H1x0fHFzmF%2BKG7YKD8h756k3BtrsE6fARMKaXNp7eQFiprUry%2F3aNaQKjQsmXoMDilrLCMYgOIsMiuO7dm4JKqdyjUkyeP2%2BBjaBbsD0tvtPoJg7l9R3wmN63AXPR6F6KmucmgdZ7dJtxhjeP9hcrMPdpnrzN8KgBObwxWu0qVIRK66Zf40RslLJy2T0n5eOui%2FQlAJQmPTKtlQlyvVUuMg39c7NwCxWD3JMWgZsDLZ%2Fv9NsPRAuPZqO7dR6FojnkO6eAzzjFpt

[howeitsdone]

What's a sway bar?... 

[Eagle]

Not safe without a sway bar. Auto manufacturers don't put anything on if they don't think it's needed.

 

Years ago, one of the original members of NAXJA rolled and totaled his XJ a block from his house because he was running on the street with no sway bar. He was in his own neighborhood, swerved sharply to avoid a dog in the road ... and that was all she wrote.

 

[Car Enthusiast]

My XJ is a basket case on the road with the sway bars. When I reconnect them it will do 100mph easily all say

[75sv1]

Front or rear? I have driven without sway bars attached on some WV roads. I didn't even notice that the front was not attached on one side. I still recommend that you have at least the front sway bar functional. I'd also say that they be balanced front to rear. I did but some adjustable RS9000 shocks on the rear. Still, a stock front and rear sway bar on the XJ. Seems more balanced, than before. 

[gogmorgo]

New links are cheap. You can buy the bushing kit as well if you really want, but best to take the sway bar end of the links off first just to make sure they’ll come apart without breaking the link off. 

[Eagle]

On 4/30/2023 at 5:10 PM, Bomberjeep said:

My sway bar end links are barely attached to the sway bar.  I was wondering how many people just ditch the bar?

 

Actualy, if you go by historical posts it seems like more people are looking for the larger diameter ZJ sway bars than are choosing to delete the sway bar.

[75sv1]

5 hours ago, Eagle said:

 

Actualy, if you go by historical posts it seems like more people are looking for the larger diameter ZJ sway bars than are choosing to delete the sway bar.

I also used Polyurethane bushings. I think they help.  

[Bomberjeep]

7 hours ago, Eagle said:

 

Actualy, if you go by historical posts it seems like more people are looking for the larger diameter ZJ sway bars than are choosing to delete the sway bar.

And they bolt right in?

[Eagle]

12 hours ago, Bomberjeep said:

And they bolt right in?

 

Link (scroll down to the post by gogmorgo):

 

[75sv1]

Thanks for the link to the WJ Swaybar swap. I would add to the WJ Big Brake swap, that you need the WJ lower ball joint. Also, the WJ hub bearing is real close to the 2000 XJ. Just 5 on 5. He did use Tnt or is it Artec OTK swaybar mounts. I have them on one of my builds. I use Ironman's on another. The one aspect is the JKS adjustable links. It answers a question I had. 

[gogmorgo]

On 5/2/2023 at 8:04 AM, Bomberjeep said:

And they bolt right in?

 

20 hours ago, Eagle said:

 

Link (scroll down to the post by gogmorgo):

 

I don’t know that that’s necessarily the absolute best source of info on the swap, but yes. The answer is they do bolt in. There’s a few different sizes so in order to make sure you’re actually getting an upgrade, measure it first to make sure the one you’re getting is actually a larger diameter. Calipers are the best way to measure.

And also, given the sway bar is a torsion spring, they do wear out with use. If you’ve got options don’t go for the bar in a vehicle that looks like it’s been driven hard, try for lower miles if you can see the odometer reading. 
To do the swap properly you also need the bushings holding the bar to the frame. They may or may not be in serviceable condition. If not they can be had new fairly cheaply. The metal brackets should be the same size but may as well grab those as well if you’re taking the bushings. 

You only need the ZJ end links if yours aren’t worth reusing, they’re the same size. Honestly for what they cost new I wouldn’t even bother with them. If you’re grabbing from a junkyard anywhere they use road salt you’ll likely snap the tops of the end links off when you try to undo the nut anyhow, and unless they’re brand spanking new they’re probably seized to the lower bolt as well. Also, don’t bother trying to turn the torx head on the lower bolt, it’s pressed into the bracket so just treat it like a nut on a stud unless it starts spinning on you.