Billabob Posted March 11, 2023 Share Posted March 11, 2023 So the time has come to give my front suspension/steering some love. I would like to swap out my front differential for a high pinion non-cad D30, convert to crossover steering, and swap out the brakes for the bigger WJ calipers. Now I already have 17" wrangler wheels and I would like keep the front end as simple as possible, ideally keeping everything as close to a stock WJ setup as possible. From what I've read, the WJ front axle is wider (Great, fine with that), has wider spacing for spring perches (not great, rewelding will be difficult), and uses CV axles (on the fence about this one, probably stronger than my 5-260 joints). Has anyone figured out a way to run 5 on 5 wheels without the whole hub/rotor/adapter mess? Is there a 5 on 5 hub that has the correct spacing for WJ rotors/brakes that is also compatible with XJ u-joint axles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted March 11, 2023 Share Posted March 11, 2023 @SoCalJeepComanche I think has 5 on 5 on his truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxyjeep Posted March 11, 2023 Share Posted March 11, 2023 44 minutes ago, 89 MJ said: @SoCalJeepComanche I think has 5 on 5 on his truck. Yes, I do. For the front, I am running a late-model XJ high-pinion Dana 30 with WJ knuckles/full outers. This consists of the following: XJ Dana 30 HP housing (same as LP) XJ Dana 30 axle shafts (preferably the larger u-joint version). You could also do this with CAD housing or shafts. WJ knuckles (both sides) WJ swap spacer kit (this is a good one). You need the larger spacer and smaller washers. Larger spacer gets welded on. WJ ball joints WJ unit bearings WJ calipers (you will need longer bolts--12MMX1.25X40MM grade 10.9) WJ rotors You'll also need to figure out your steering solution. You can keep the stock steering, but will lose out on the higher drag link mount. I opted to ream my knuckles for 1-ton TRE's and got custom length 1.5" aluminum links from WideOpenDesign. For the track-bar I went with CavFab OTA mount kit and RE frame-side bracket. I haven't solved the sway bar linkage yet, but do have a set of Clayton high-steer brackets I'm planning to try to fit. I don't have a ton of miles on it yet, but so far I'm relatively happy. I'm also in the process of swapping my rear D44 to native 5-on-5" pattern. That being said, if I were to do it again I would just get a set of JK/JL/JT take-off axles. The only work would be welding some mounts and steering linkage... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billabob Posted March 11, 2023 Author Share Posted March 11, 2023 25 minutes ago, SoCalJeepComanche said: Yes, I do. For the front, I am running a late-model XJ high-pinion Dana 30 with WJ knuckles/full outers. This consists of the following: XJ Dana 30 HP housing (same as LP) XJ Dana 30 axle shafts (preferably the larger u-joint version). You could also do this with CAD housing or shafts. WJ knuckles (both sides) WJ swap spacer kit (this is a good one). You need the larger spacer and smaller washers. Larger spacer gets welded on. WJ ball joints WJ unit bearings WJ calipers (you will need longer bolts--12MMX1.25X40MM grade 10.9) WJ rotors You'll also need to figure out your steering solution. You can keep the stock steering, but will lose out on the higher drag link mount. I opted to ream my knuckles for 1-ton TRE's and got custom length 1.5" aluminum links from WideOpenDesign. For the track-bar I went with CavFab OTA mount kit and RE frame-side bracket. I haven't solved the sway bar linkage yet, but do have a set of Clayton high-steer brackets I'm planning to try to fit. I don't have a ton of miles on it yet, but so far I'm relatively happy. I'm also in the process of swapping my rear D44 to native 5-on-5" pattern. That being said, if I were to do it again I would just get a set of JK/JL/JT take-off axles. The only work would be welding some mounts and steering linkage... Very cool! Were you able to bolt your shaft to the hub without any issues? Others have claimed that an XJ stubshaft does not have enough threads for a WJ hub. If thats not the case then this is the solution! Steering is already figured out. I'll be going with the Ironman4x4fab WJ kit. Should be plenty strong for NYC streets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxyjeep Posted March 11, 2023 Share Posted March 11, 2023 Just now, Billabob said: Very cool! Were you able to bolt your shaft to the hub without any issues? Others have claimed that an XJ stubshaft does not have enough threads for a WJ hub. If thats not the case then this is the solution! Yes, there are enough threads, but you won't be able to run a cotter pin and the original castle nut "shroud". I'm running a cotter pin without the shroud, as I don't think it matters too much (hopefully). Alternatively, you can grind down the axle shaft bolt to be thinner or you could drill a new hole in the shaft. There are plenty of threads either way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billabob Posted March 11, 2023 Author Share Posted March 11, 2023 2 minutes ago, SoCalJeepComanche said: Yes, there are enough threads, but you won't be able to run a cotter pin and the original castle nut "shroud". I'm running a cotter pin without the shroud, as I don't think it matters too much (hopefully). Alternatively, you can grind down the axle shaft bolt to be thinner or you could drill a new hole in the shaft. There are plenty of threads either way. I'd like the peace of mind but drilling a hole is much easier than the alternative. I read through your other thread and found a solution to my other problem as well, getting 5 on 5 on my semi-floating 8.8. I appreciate the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxyjeep Posted March 11, 2023 Share Posted March 11, 2023 Just now, Billabob said: I'd like the peace of mind but drilling a hole is much easier than the alternative. I read through your other thread and found a solution to my other problem as well, getting 5 on 5 on my semi-floating 8.8. I appreciate the help! Awesome--would love to hear your plan. I was super bummed that the D44 axle shaft flanges were too small to be re-drilled. Hopefully that's the solution for the 8.8... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75sv1 Posted March 12, 2023 Share Posted March 12, 2023 I have done the WJ hub bearings too. I did have a Ford 8.8 on that setup too. I did use spacers for the rear. I did transfer those axles to another XJ I have a build going on. I do plan to 'upgrade' the Ford 8.8 to 5 on 5. I do have a set of Yukon Axles for the Ford 8.8. They come drilled with 5 on 4.5 and 5 on 5. I did try or start to adapt the WJ rear brake shields. Its a plan. I also will go with a Dana 44 upfront at some point. Seems like a good match with the Ford 8.8. Also, looking to 'upgrade' again to a 13" rotor on the front and caliper to match. I think2 I saw someone already did this on NAXJA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75sv1 Posted March 12, 2023 Share Posted March 12, 2023 OKK, I have run the 5 on 5 for 3 years or more. The trips are through WV. I ran Rusty's OTK trackbar. On my '00 XJ, I run Sticky Fabs. Both have Ruff Stuff's Cross over steering. You do the WJ for the Big Brakes. Your glad you did it for the cross over steering. I do weld on the bearing spacer. And Yes, do use WJ lower ball joints. Also, use 1/4 spacers for the caliper brackets. I do have a set of WJ knuckles, that I made a sleeved 1/4 caliper bracket spacer. I also drilled and tapped for adjustable steering stops. I use Ironman OTK brackets for the swaybar links. There is one build on NAXJA that had extensions welded up from 'C' stiffeners. Looked real good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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