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Seized Brakes on Both Sides of Rear Axle - Replace Drums or Axle?


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I've got a Dana35 with two locked up wheels. The Differential assembly seems mostly fine, I would guess that the drums are just fully seized from sitting.

 

I removed the plug to adjust the tensioner and a whole lot of rust came out.

I think I'm down to three options and wanted to get opinions on the most cost effective; I want to get this thing back on the road for the lowest amount of money. There are a couple ZJ's with good looking D35s at the local u-pull. They charge about 100 for the full axle apparently and about 30 for each side brake assemblies. 

 

1. Fully rebuild the drums with Quadratec's 52001151K kit. Is it worth the effort? I might even need a new backing plates. ~$200?

 

2. ZJ(or liberty?) disc conversion from junkyard parts.

 

3. ZJ D35 axle swap - I have to replace the front Leafspring mounts anyways so why not even possibly convert it to trailing arm? Is there anyway to do this with cheap junkyard parts and a bit of welding? Would it be better to convert that axle to leaf spring?

I'm open to a lot of possibilities. I like the ease of maintenance for the disc brakes. I like things that I can custom fabricate rather than buying parts kits.

 

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If you think the backing plates are corroded to hell, I would sacrifice them and start by using and angle grinder with a cut-off wheel and chop the outside of the area drum where the shoe rides in about 6-8 places around the drum.  This cutting will go thru the drum outer wall, and through part of the backing plate, and probably through part of the shoe face. 
 

Then squirt in some of the best penetrating oil you can find.  Acetone mixed 50/50 with ATF is very good for this.  Flood each of the saw cuts as best as you can and let it sit a while.

 

if that STILL doesn’t get the drum to move/rotate, then start cutting on the front face of the drum between the previous saw cuts you made.  DO NOT cut far enough inboard so as to harm the axle flange itself.

 

Once the cuts are made, you can now pry off the drum segments to leave just the part of the drum that contacts the axle flange.  and start to apply penetrating oil to the joint between the drum hub and the axle flange.

 

At that point, heat, and a chisel between the drum and axle, along with a big hammer should get the rest of the drum off.  Then it’s just a matter of removing all the remaining trashed parts.

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3 hours ago, Pete M said:

I'd grab a Liberty 8.25 and just throw that 35 away.  :L:  the vast majority of Libertys had 3.73 gears though so ya gotta take that into consideration.

Of course, that requires the lower control arm links to be cut off the Libby axle, and leaf spring perches to be welded on.   If you have welding skills, or know someone who does, that is an excellent suggestion

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harbor freight sells grinders for 10 bucks.  any muffler shop has a welder.  where there's a will, there's a way. :D  none of the stuff on my truck was welded together by me or anyone I know personally.  :L: 

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On 5/30/2022 at 12:15 PM, ghetdjc320 said:

What year is your D35?

As far as I can tell, its original so 88. But its all new to me! the tag on it is all rust, so I can't even read the ratio. Is there any way to know the ratio without pulling the cover off and counting?

 

On 5/27/2022 at 8:30 PM, Pete M said:

I'd grab a Liberty 8.25 and just throw that 35 away.  :L:  the vast majority of Libertys had 3.73 gears though so ya gotta take that into consideration.

It would be drivable in 2wd, right? Any tips on cheaply doing a gear swap?

I think I'll go with the 8.25 swap. Sounds like fun to me!

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gear swaps are not cheap.  they are cheap-er if you can do them yourself, but it's not something suggested for a beginner.

 

 

car-part.com can most definitely find you some ZJ front axles with 3.73 gears and that axle will bolt in. :L:

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Pretty well any ZJ with a V8 will have 3.73 gears. Front axle is low-pinion but it's the same as TJs got so no big deal. Just avoid ZJ rear axles if you're looking for a donor. You'll either expend a ton of money just for a D35 or end up with the questionable aluminum centred D44A.

 

If you do decide to cut into the brakes make sure you've got breathing protection. Personally I'd pull the wheels off and beat the crap out of the the drums with a sledge hammer until they come off. Still, be wary of brake dust. 

I don't see anything wrong with running a D35 if that's still what's in the truck. Unless you're doing intense wheeling on the regular or putting big tires on it, it'll be alright. They don't have amazing reputations, but there's also a pile of them under stock rigs doing hundreds of thousands of miles without issues. Nothing wrong with going to ZJ discs either on your current axle if that's what you want to do. But if you're swapping out the whole axle definitely go for something better than a D35.

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