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H4 headlights in your MJ/XJ


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I got a set of H4 headlights for my 86 xj. they're black and pretty cool actually.

 

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anyways, these are dark headlights. actually my fog lights are brighter. I tested them out hooked directly to a battery and they were brighter.

 

so obviously they just need more juice.

 

the plan is to run one relay per headlight, per "position". so that's 4 relays. one each for low beam, one each for high beam.

 

I'll use the factory wiring to turn the relays on, relays will be supplied by direct power to a fusible link.

 

would that suffice? do I only need 2 relays, or is 4 better? I think supplying each headlight with it's own power will ensure it's got juice.

 

also, should I ground the relays to the stock wiring harness ground or should I just do away with that ground all together? or ground the relays, and keep the headlight itself grounded through the stock harness (second one's a no-no IMO)

 

ideas?

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use a two position relay, that might help. so one position is hi one is low one is off.

 

hmm

 

I like that idea.

 

so it would have one battery power source, one ground, 2 input (power on's for the hi/lo), and 2 output (hi/lo again) wires?

 

where would I get that. dumb ??? lol, but I've never seen a 2 position relay.

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use a two position relay, that might help. so one position is hi one is low one is off.

 

hmm

 

I like that idea.

 

so it would have one battery power source, one ground, 2 input (power on's for the hi/lo), and 2 output (hi/lo again) wires?

 

where would I get that. dumb ??? lol, but I've never seen a 2 position relay.

 

i think i might've made it up but i SWEAR i've seen factory toyota two position relays in wiring class. (toy t-ten program)

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you're probably going to have to run multiple relays, buy a project box from radioshack to keep it all striaght, it looks nice when you're done too :D

 

I'm sure you like that after seein your rigs.

 

i can scan in a factory style setup it uses a multi-function switch (straight from my 1600page modern auto tech book its a nice diagram

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The relays you want are called DPDT, (dual pole, dual throw). I guess in effect you could call them two position relays. They will have two windings in them and up to 8 pins with a ground post. You would need 2.

 

how much are we talking about here?

 

here's the thing...it was $40 for these lights shipping included. if this turns into a $70 project for focking headlights, I'm getting my money back.

 

I asked if this was a problem before I bought. was told no.

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DPDT relays, X2. Plus you'll need a heavier wiring harness after the relays. Those black lights look like crap in an MJ (Or anything else except maybe a Ricer). The reflector is chrome plastic, poor to begin with, and the lumens output only get worse with age. Get some regulation Hella H4s, glass lens, metal reflectors.

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Two relays should be used, one for high beam and one for low beam. You should also be using relays for all your driving/fog lights. An upgaded wiring harness is also needed to get the most output from the lights without smoking the stock harness. Get your power directly from the alternator to power your relays. Some good HD inline fuse holders should be used with some 10 to 12 gauge wiring. The headlight switch should also be used to supply power to your driving/ fog light switches so your driving lights will work with your dimmer swiitch. This way you won't ever need to use you driving/fog light switches unless you don't want them on. All the headlight, dimmer, fog and driving light switches should do is control relays.

 

If you have questions or need some help let me know.

 

A good high quality H-4 headlight with glass lenses and a chrome reflectors will make those lights look was dim in comparision.

 

As for bulbs stick with a extreme white style bulb. Colored bulbs are for ricers and refelect off of wet roads making it hard to see. White is the best.

 

HID's might look blue from an angle but are white from the drivers seat.

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You only need two relays, one for high beams and one for low beams. If the relay is in the vicinity of the battery and the lights and you use 12-gauge wire, you'll get plenty of juice to the lights. Running multiple relays won't change anything -- voltage drop is a function of wire gauge and length. Plan your wiring layout to minimize the length of the wire run and you'll get maximum power to the lights.

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where would I get that. dumb ??? lol, but I've never seen a 2 position relay.

Sure you have. All the Jeep relays are double throw. I don't remember the terminal numbers off-hand, but they are set up so if you wite them one way they are normally open, and another way they are normally closed. Yes, you could use that to operate both headlights off one relay.

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Here's how I did mine w. costs. Got the Hella 200mm H4 e-code glass lamp shells from Susquehanna Motor Sports ($34/ea). Then picked up from eBay four IPF 80w/60w H4 bulbs ($10 w. shipping, but you can used any wattage H4 bulb you want) and wired in a universal APC 4-lamp wiring harness w. relays (much cheaper than the 2-lamp, just cut off the extra two H4 sockets, Ebay, $9 w. shipping) which fit my MJ perfectly. Then put in a separate fuse block mounted near the PDC on the right fender well and fused the high and low beams separately w. 20A fuses.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yes, to be safe. By using relays incorporated into your wiring harness your new headlights will put out all they are capable of because the voltage drop caused by the low gauge factory gauge wiring will be eliminated, and the most vulnerable part of the circuit, the headlight switch, will be protected from burnout. It will save you many potential electrical problems down the road.

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