rylee144 Posted January 6, 2021 Share Posted January 6, 2021 *I havent tightened anything up yet* I was not the one that removed the components so I had to google how things went together. It appears there are a couple ways of doing this. I added some photos if anyone sees anything that jumps out as wrong please let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted January 6, 2021 Share Posted January 6, 2021 Interesting to see the drag link on top of the pitman arm. Probably done that way to keep it Parral el with the track bar. You can keep the drag link on top of the knuckle and the tie rod below like you have it in the picture but you need to add some safety washers to that setup. The safety washers will be a cone shaped washer that is about the same size as the heim OD. That way if the heim joint should fail, the steering linkage will still remain in place. I’d also use all new shorter grade 8 bolts with new grade 8 locking nuts and lock washers. Here is a simple diagram about how your combo would be setup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted January 6, 2021 Share Posted January 6, 2021 For the safety misalignment spacers and related parts, look at the components in this kit: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/34STEER-REPLACE.html there are Lin’s to the individual pieces. I would assume your are running 3/4” heims which would use a 5/8” bolt through the pitman arm and knuckles. 5/8 is the largest straight bore the stock knuckles can safely handle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted January 6, 2021 Author Share Posted January 6, 2021 So these fellas. https://www.tmrcustoms.com/products/stainless-steel-safety-washers?variant=29032321286221¤cy=USD&gclid=CjwKCAiAudD_BRBXEiwAudakX8NZPR1hh-asPAPcCuv1oG93i5muAG_FKTbR0khJ4lac2fcl0jkFlxoCjSAQAvD_BwE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted January 6, 2021 Share Posted January 6, 2021 Yep you got it. Those would work for the bottom of the tie rod/knuckles. You’ll need some safety misalignment spacers for the top though since the joint needs to flex quite a bit. I picked up the parts from ruff stuff and they’ve been perfect for 7 years now. Just make sure not to use additional hardware like extra washers or spacers where they aren’t needed. The ones in your pics are a bit cobbled together and the bolt length will put a lot of sheering force on it that could be greatly reduced with an appropriate shorter hardware stack like the diagram above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 Thanks ghetdjc320 for the info. I ordered some more pieces then I'll try to clean things up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 9 hours ago, rylee144 said: Thanks ghetdjc320 for the info. I ordered some more pieces then I'll try to clean things up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 It seems I have messed something up. The inside of the wheel on the passenger side is rubbing on the bolt head. What can I do to fix this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 8 minutes ago, rylee144 said: It seems I have messed something up. The inside of the wheel on the passenger side is rubbing on the bolt head. What can I do to fix this? I am guessing that, when you drilled out the hole in the steering knuckle to remove the taper, the hole is at an angle now. That's my guess based on one photo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 They we drilled out when I got it from the donor jeep that also had this steering. I'll go pull the wheel and add pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 Could I run the bolt up instead of down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89eliminator Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 a lot of those kits require aftermarket wheels (different offset) to work. id just shave the head of the bolt down till it didnt rub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 That idea crossed my mind. The doner jeep did have aftermarket wheels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 Wheel spacers are safer at this point than shaving that bolt. The misalignment spacers on the top of your knuckles under the heim could also be a bit shorter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 It’s best to keep the bolt in right side up so at the very least gravity keeps it from falling out. Make sure to use lock washers under the nylock nut also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 Are those 15" wheels? Even a 16" wheel would give you enough extra room that you wouldn't have a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 id like to say they are 16s. i had to leave for work and the truck was blocking the garage door so i resorted to the grinder for now so that it could be moved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 Several thoughts: —A socket-head capscrew might give you a bit more clearance. —I would seriously consider shortening the misalignment spacers a bit. —Better than nylock nuts and lock washers would be the all-steel distorted thread locknuts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted January 21, 2021 Author Share Posted January 21, 2021 I may have to shorten it up. If that bolt rotates somehow it would rub again and if that happened at speed that could do some damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rylee144 Posted January 22, 2021 Author Share Posted January 22, 2021 Got some shorter misalignment spacers coming and good eye the wheels are 15 inches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted January 22, 2021 Share Posted January 22, 2021 It was on my mind, I want to do a tie rod flip, but know it won't work with 15" wheels, for just your issue. I shopped for late model 16" wheels flea while. I saw a set of 16" TJ Rubicon Moabs in Snohomish listed on CL for $300. They have less backspace than the Icons I ended up with. Edit: Oops, probably near the same backspace, they are 8" wide wheels as the 7" Icons. Less offset, 12ish mm vs. 31.75mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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