BaronVonChahyll Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Hey Brain Trust, Thanks for attending and hopefully your help I have a 1989 2WD 4.0L Auto Comanche I have been trying to get her going with limited success and I think I may have nailed down a major component but want to kind of get some verification from those with much more experience. Truck will crank but will not start. Its been sitting for 12 years so assumption is a lot of stuff but first off is getting rid of the nasty gas in the tank I went to hot wire the fuel pump so I could drain the tank and got no noise or action from the pump I went around and re-grounded several grounds (Taillight, EGR Solonoid area, Battery Terminal) Still nothing from fuel pump. Got a volt meter and at the closest connection point to the pump under the truck I check the plug. I am getting straight 12V from the front to the pump. I am assuming my pump is shot and its time to drop the tank? Thanks in advanced!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 7 minutes ago, BaronVonChahyll said: Got a volt meter and at the closest connection point to the pump under the truck I check the plug. I am getting straight 12V from the front to the pump. Check it using a Testlight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaronVonChahyll Posted June 16, 2020 Author Share Posted June 16, 2020 I am not very experienced Is there a reason to use a test light instead of a multimeter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Voltmeters can fool you, they don't tax (current flow) the circuit. Testlight requires current flow to light the light. Example being a 10 stranded wire with 9 wires broke, voltmeter will show 12vdc but testlight will glow dimly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 I'm in a similar place, bought a non-running Comanche in early March. I too was getting crank, no start. I couldn't hear the fuel pump. I replaced said fuel pump, but didn't flush the tank well. I just replaced the fuel pump a second time. So, long story short, flush your tank. I had some fine silt, like diatomaceous earth. Vinegar cleaned it up fairly well, but I am concerned about what it may have done to the tank. While you could have an electrical issue, and should make sure you have current, you probably need a fuel pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaronVonChahyll Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share Posted June 18, 2020 To update this I am attaching a link to a video I took while messing with this thing.https://photos.app.goo.gl/Cz5Ti9WNTFbV9ftKA I think that given the time it has been sitting and the fact that I am getting current all the way to the pump connector It may be time to drop the tank and replace the pump. Any links/suggestions for a good replacement pump. I am planning to make this a long term keeper with a major engine replacement/rebuild in its future so that's where I am coming from Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustEmptyEveryPocket Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 Did you ever put a testlight on it? You can use a homebrew testlight by soldering a couple of wires to a bulb and probing the connector that way. Like said above, a multimeter can fool you into thinking you have power when you really don't. THIS is a great video for DIY testlights. SouthMainAuto is an awesome YouTuber for auto repair. I like watching all of his videos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaronVonChahyll Posted June 19, 2020 Author Share Posted June 19, 2020 Yeah I did the test light and I got a light/buzzing which means I 100% have power and when I plugged in the pump it was dead silent. I am in the process of dropping the tank. I will make one last attempt to run the pump directly from the battery after I drop it but I am pretty sure she's dead jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimB Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 you do not have to drop the tank to pull the pump. But since it has sat for a long time it might be a good idea. Mine had a white chalky residue mess all over the inside of tank. Pulled tank after putting new pump on and it only lasted lasted a few weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 Did you check the ground side of the circuit? The factory fuel pump ground point is the sheet metal screw behind the driver’s taillight, which is a known trouble spot. If you’ve got it hooked up to power, kicking the bottom of the tank might knock it loose and get it spinning. But if that does make it work, the pump is on borrowed time anyhow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 On 6/18/2020 at 5:52 PM, JimB said: you do not have to drop the tank to pull the pump. But since it has sat for a long time it might be a good idea. Mine had a white chalky residue mess all over the inside of tank. Pulled tank after putting new pump on and it only lasted lasted a few weeks. Same issue with me. I ordered a US Motorworks from Summit Racing. It worked great, but I suspect it got plugged with the sediment. I highly recommend flushing the tank before you install your new pump. They did replace it under warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaronVonChahyll Posted June 22, 2020 Author Share Posted June 22, 2020 Update to this/moving this to a new topic The tank was f*ked. The pump was rusted. The tank was rusted. The sending unit was rusted. The gas came out dark brown like coca cola No wonder it wouldn't start lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silvertwinkiehobo Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 *DUN DUN DUNNNNN* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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