SoCalManche Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 10 hours ago, eaglescout526 said: Sounds like what you needed to get away from this mess. If the block is still disconnected, I would try to find the orange wire and probe it for voltage just to see if the drop is between there and the relay. You do the same! Here's that deliciously, tar-y connector! I'll have to do some sifting to find the fuel pump relay wire connection. It doesn't list which connection it is based on the image? UPDATE: I found the one orange and black wire coming into the connector. It is fed from the harness that goes through the front bumper? Anyways, everything is so compact going into the connector that you can't visible see what connects to what. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 That's the little one (pocket size), but it should work just fine for your needs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 5 minutes ago, Ωhm said: That's the little one (pocket size), but it should work just fine for your needs. Yeah, I can definitely go snag one right quick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 What do you want me to do with it once I get back home? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 Testlight language. BL: Brightly Lit. DL: Dimly Lit. NL: No Lit. HOT AT ALL TIMES: Remove relay, FP relay (30). D1_5. Ground at Engine Block (back of head connection). RED wire testing. KEY ON: Remove relay, FP relay (86), D1_2. Same ground location. YEL wire testing. Lets see what these results are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 23 minutes ago, Ωhm said: Testlight language. BL: Brightly Lit. DL: Dimly Lit. NL: No Lit. HOT AT ALL TIMES: Remove relay, FP relay (30). D1_5. Ground at Engine Block (back of head connection). RED wire testing. KEY ON: Remove relay, FP relay (86), D1_2. Same ground location. YEL wire testing. Lets see what these results are. This is with relay removed entire time: Pin 30: NL; all other pins BL. D1_5:NL. Block ground:BL. KEY ON and relay removed entire time: Pin 86:NL; only pin 87 BL. D1_2:NL. Block ground:BL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 FP relay color code check: 30=RED 86=YEL 87=ORG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 33 minutes ago, Ωhm said: Ground at Engine Block (back of head connection). Here I meant connect the clipped lead of the testlight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 1 minute ago, Ωhm said: Here I meant connect the clipped lead of the testlight. I did connect it. Connect to Batt Pos post, yes? Yes, color code confirmed on what I tested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 No. Battery post not involved with this, yet. Clip the TL clip to Engine Block (back of head). Then probe those pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 2 minutes ago, Ωhm said: No. Battery post not involved with this, yet. Clip the clip to Engine Block (back of head). Then probe those pins. Ohhhhhh, gotcha. My bad. I totally misread what you said. 30: BL. D1_5:BL. Key ON: 86:BL. D1_2:BL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 This little guy is pretty small, but each light that has popped on seems strong and what I would say is considered "bright" for its size. No flickering or anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 RED & YEL wires show good. ORG wire time. With FP relay still removed, install jumper wire between FP relay pins 30 & 87. No need for KEY ON, circuit will be HOT. Maintain same ground with TL. Probe the following: D1_6 Fuel Injector disconnected (ORG wire) EGR Solenoid disconnected (ORG wire) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 16 minutes ago, SoCalManche said: Ohhhhhh, gotcha. My bad. I totally misread what you said. Just because I completely understand what I say, doesn't mean others do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 1 minute ago, Ωhm said: Fuel Injector disconnected (ORG wire) EGR Solenoid disconnected (ORG wire) Sorry, I'm not following here. You want me to disconnect those two? Jumper (30 & 87) and everything connected: D1_6 = BL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 Disconnect or just backprobe them if you can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 1 minute ago, Ωhm said: Disconnect or just backprobe them if you can. I'll just disconnect. Injector(ORG wire): BL. I do not have an ORG wire for EGR solenoid. I have YEL and BLK. I double checked all connections too, and it's connector is the only one that will fit. Others are opposite fit. EGR side has two-pin female connector with male connection pins; the other two-pin male connectors besides the YEL and BLK connector are with female connection pins. Make sense? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 Your picture show ORG and BLU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 2 minutes ago, Ωhm said: Your picture show ORG and BLU. Whoops, I was at the EGR valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 37 minutes ago, Ωhm said: EGR Solenoid disconnected (ORG wire) BL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 While we're still under the hood it battery positive time. Connect TL clip to battery positive post. I'm using the 87 Electrical Manual. Probe the following: D1_3 D2_7 Touch firewall metal Touch engine block Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 Just now, Ωhm said: While we're still under the hood it battery positive time. Connect TL clip to battery positive post. I'm using the 87 Electrical Manual. Probe the following: D1_3 D2_7 Touch firewall metal Touch engine block D1_3:BL. D2_7:BL. FW:BL on bare metal. EB:BL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 That leave us with testing at the fuel pump motor, disconnected, harness side. You'll need to use the FP relay jumper for this. Connect TL between C139_A and C139_C. TL polarity doesn't matter here, it just a bulb. With jumper in place, note reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 Just for clarification, you are saying jumper (A) and (C) on the fuel pump harness disconnected, correct? Where am I supposed to clip down the TL? Nearest ground? I know you said polarity doesn't matter, but I'm confused as to where to clip it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 Connect TL between (A) & (C). Jumper wire at FP relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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