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'86 MJ 2.5L ECM....good?


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CTS or the ISA? For the CTS it is the opposite of the WOT for voltage. D2_13 is voltage and D2_7 is ground

 

Voltage should be close to zero at closed throttle and greater than 2 volts when off closed throttle.

 

ISA doesn't have any voltage specs in the book. Suspect somewhere around 5-12VDC

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10 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

Ok I went out and got some baselines from my ISA with key on, ISA unplugged.

A is ground, ground probe went there

B is closed throttle input, I got 5V there

C is retract, I got .141V

D is extend, I got .141V

Mine was pretty similar:

A = Ground

B = 5V

C = ~0.135V

D = ~0.136V

 

Really had to play with the wire on C to get it to read properly.

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3 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

So I wonder what D2_7 and 13 will show for voltage once you got it all back together. 

If you mean test each separately with ground at Batt Neg, D2_7 and D2_13 both read 3.72V.

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5 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

No D2_7 needs to have the ground probe and then D2_13 is the input to the ECU.  We need to see if theres 0 volts with the throttle closed and then 2 volts with throttle open and off the plunger.

Key OFF: Throttle closed or opened = 0V

Key ON: Throttle closed = 0.0028V / Throttle opened = 5.04V

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CTS switch is good. That's really really really close to zero and the book asks for it to be close to zero. Throttle open is greater than 2 volts. 

 

Lets do the WOT test again. With ign on D2_6 power probe and D2_7 ground probe

 

No voltage at WOT position and greater than 2V not at WOT position. Basically the opposite of the CTS.

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2 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

CTS switch is good. That's really really really close to zero and the book asks for it to be close to zero. Throttle open is greater than 2 volts. 

 

Lets do the WOT test again. With ign on D2_6 power probe and D2_7 ground probe

 

No voltage at WOT position and greater than 2V not at WOT position. Basically the opposite of the CTS.

Yes, it is opposite. WOT position = 0.0025V and 5.03V not at WOT position.

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Ok switches are good. 

 

Lets do a run down of what we have now.

 

CTS and WOT switches are good. 5V are at TPS and MAP. Fuel pump runs but won't fire when jumped, engine runs with relay in place but fuel poured down TB. CPS is a bit below spec but is fine. Fusible link to fuel pump relay is fine as is ignition switch(we confirmed voltage on terminal 86 for FP relay right?). Fuel pressure is 15PSI. Engine has spark. Injector is less than 10ohms. Does the injector lamp pulse dimly? 

 

Do we want to test the coolant temp sensor?

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1 minute ago, eaglescout526 said:

Ok switches are good. 

 

Lets do a run down of what we have now.

 

CTS and WOT switches are good. 5V are at TPS and MAP. Fuel pump runs but won't fire when jumped, engine runs with relay in place but fuel poured down TB. CPS is a bit below spec but is fine. Fusible link to fuel pump relay is fine as is ignition switch(we confirmed voltage on terminal 86 for FP relay right?). Fuel pressure is 15PSI. Engine has spark. Injector is less than 10ohms. Does the injector lamp pulse dimly? 

 

Do we want to test the coolant temp sensor?

Sure, let's test the CTS.

 

When I used the noid light on the injector harness, it was daylight, and only looked like a constant dim while cranking. I will go hook it up and check again. 

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Alrighty. CTS test is as follows

 

Located on the side of the intake manifold below the fuel lines and by the brake booster vac line.

 

Testing resistance(ohms) with a volt meter

The resistance should be less than 1000 with a warm engine, we can't get the engine warm.\

212*F---185 ohms

160*---450

100*---1,600

70*---3,400

can't imagine the temp being lower than 70 so I won't bother with the rest of the chart.

 

Replace sensor if it is not within the range of the chart above.

 

Test the resistance of the wire harness between the ECU harness T15 and the sensor connector terminal, and T32 to the sensor connector. Does not specify which probe to put where on the sensor connector. 
Repair harness if open circuit is indicated.

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8 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

Alrighty. CTS test is as follows

 

Located on the side of the intake manifold below the fuel lines and by the brake booster vac line.

 

Testing resistance(ohms) with a volt meter

The resistance should be less than 1000 with a warm engine, we can't get the engine warm.\

212*F---185 ohms

160*---450

100*---1,600

70*---3,400

can't imagine the temp being lower than 70 so I won't bother with the rest of the chart.

 

Replace sensor if it is not within the range of the chart above.

 

Test the resistance of the wire harness between the ECU harness T15 and the sensor connector terminal, and T32 to the sensor connector. Does not specify which probe to put where on the sensor connector. 
Repair harness if open circuit is indicated.

CTS resistance =3K ohms.

 

It's Terminal B on the sensor connector to test for resistance. With that said, T15 and (B) = 4.5 ohms. T32 and (B) = O.L.

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4 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

Is this back probed on the connector or connector unplugged? If we still can't get anything suspect a melted wire somewhere.

Belay my last. When I tested both A & T32 / B & T32, they were both back-probed with 0.L for both. I hate how unreliable back-probing is. I tested both again, but this time by direct contact in the connector pin, and I got A & T32 = 0 ohms. 

 

(This is connector unplugged)

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Yeah back probing is a PITA sometimes and contact with the metal is fuzzy. Just wait for the TPS adjustment. 

 

Well since theres no open circuit in either wires and 3k ohms would put the temp around 80*. So CTS and its circuit is good.

 

Ok looking at more conditions in the book I got two

FP will not operate for the one second

Connect a jumper on the FP relay. Pump operates. You checked for continuity between the relay and T6 at the ECU connector for this one right?

Then theres the checking for continuity between the relay and the pump, I remember talking about that one.

Then theres test the ECU and pump ground circuit. 

 

Then theres the pump will not operate with starter engaged.

Connect positive battery voltage to the pump contact on the starter motor relay

If pump operates, repair or replace starter motor relay

If pump does not operate, repair wire harness between the starter motor relay and the pump side of the ballast resistor. Not sure if that is for Renault models or both.

Then it says to check the one second operation.

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4 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

FP will not operate for the one second

Connect a jumper on the FP relay. Pump operates. You checked for continuity between the relay and T6 at the ECU connector for this one right?

Was this Pin 86 and T6 for continuity?

 

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