BeaterComanche86 Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 I’m trying to install some 90-96 footwell lights in my 86 and I can’t figure out what crimps I need for the female end. I have both male and female connectors but no source for the female crimps and id really like to avoid splicing them. Anyone know what crimps I need? The picture with the yellow arrow is female connector. These are the lights I have: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 The '91 and up (this is an early example of this starting) wiring harnesses are littered with Chrysler proprietary connectors that have absolutely no information available for them. That looks like another one of them. I haven't been able to find the bare contacts for any of the ones I've looked for. Are there any markings molded into the plastic of the connector? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeaterComanche86 Posted April 22, 2020 Author Share Posted April 22, 2020 They do have markings on the connector, I’ll have to report back once I’m home from work and I’ll also snap a picture of the crimp itself. I’ve seen a few that look similar on clipsandfasteners.com but wanted to confirm before I bought a pack of them. Thanks for the quick response Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeaterComanche86 Posted April 22, 2020 Author Share Posted April 22, 2020 There’s 16451 printed on the female connector: Front view: And the crimp itself which has A 18 printed on it, if that means anything: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 Unless you are trying to restore your MJ to factory condition, ditch those weird proprietary connectors and go buy something on Amazon. Given that the application is an interior electrical connector, the need for environmental sealing (waterproofing) is non-existent, so a bunch of stuff is out there for cheap. Here is a good example of something you can use: https://www.amazon.com/MUYI-Waterproof-Connector-1-5mm-Terminal/dp/B01A6LTK44/ref=psdc_15729341_t1_B01F54PFLE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 1 hour ago, AZJeff said: Unless you are trying to restore your MJ to factory condition, ditch those weird proprietary connectors and go buy something on Amazon. Given that the application is an interior electrical connector, the need for environmental sealing (waterproofing) is non-existent, so a bunch of stuff is out there for cheap. Here is a good example of something you can use: https://www.amazon.com/MUYI-Waterproof-Connector-1-5mm-Terminal/dp/B01A6LTK44/ref=psdc_15729341_t1_B01F54PFLE Agreed. If I were in your place, I'd go with some unsealed Metripack 150 connectors. That connector line was heavily used in Jeeps anyway so it would look proper, generic crimp tools work just fine for the contacts, and they can be had by the boatload cheaply as components on Mouser. Just make sure to pick the connector so that you can't accidentally plug something in incorrectly. AMP has a few lines of connectors that are good for this purpose as well, and I especially like them for audio installs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 Just now, Minuit said: Agreed. If I were in your place, I'd go with some unsealed Metripack 150 connectors. That connector line was heavily used in Jeeps anyway so it would look proper, generic crimp tools work just fine for the contacts, and they can be had by the boatload cheaply on Mouser. Just make sure to pick the connector so that you can't accidentally plug something in incorrectly. That's a good alternative, if you actually have crimp tools. If you don't (like me), I just solder/heatshrink the connector pigtails into the wiring. The old Molex "Econo-Latch" connector is PERFECT for this role for interior lighting connectors, as it's cheap and simple, as well as being polarized. Too bad it requires a lugging tool to attach the contacts to the wires correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 Just now, AZJeff said: The old Molex "Econo-Latch" connector is PERFECT for this role Yep, love those too. If memory serves, the 0.062" version is the connector used by the S10 blazer dome lights that a lot of people use to replace the originals. I have a sneaking suspicion that the Renix diagnostic port is a variation on that connector too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeaterComanche86 Posted April 23, 2020 Author Share Posted April 23, 2020 Thanks @Minuit and @AZJeff I had no idea these were such an obscure connector. Id like to avoid soldering or splicing the wires together so I’ll probably just go with a buildable connector as I have some basic crimp tools. Not looking for a factory restoration but I don’t want it to look as out of place as my head unit lol. Thanks again for the suggestions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gjeep Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 To answer the original question -- they don't exist (female side). I've looked high and low. But, if you were working on the male side of the terminal there is a Ford terminal that is an exact fit to those. It's in a small 8 pin set at O'Reilly's Auto. It comes in a mix of Ford and Chryco terminals male/ female. The matching female terminal in this kit is nothing like what you need unfortunately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeaterComanche86 Posted April 24, 2020 Author Share Posted April 24, 2020 20 hours ago, Gjeep said: To answer the original question -- they don't exist (female side). I've looked high and low. But, if you were working on the male side of the terminal there is a Ford terminal that is an exact fit to those. It's in a small 8 pin set at O'Reilly's Auto. It comes in a mix of Ford and Chryco terminals male/ female. The matching female terminal in this kit is nothing like what you need unfortunately. Thanks for info, I’ll probaly just end up getting a new male and female connector and pinning that. It’s just my luck that I get such an uncommon set of connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 50 minutes ago, BeaterComanche86 said: It’s just my luck that I get such an uncommon set of connectors. Blame Chrysler. Minuit and I spent about a day doing PM's on finding out who supplies Chrysler with their terminals and kits. I couldn't even find anything in the electrical connecter catalog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeaterComanche86 Posted April 24, 2020 Author Share Posted April 24, 2020 2 hours ago, eaglescout526 said: Blame Chrysler. Minuit and I spent about a day doing PM's on finding out who supplies Chrysler with their terminals and kits. I couldn't even find anything in the electrical connecter catalog. I appreciate the persistence, I’m becoming less and less surprised with some of the bone head things Chrysler/AMC do. It’s like the engineers get there kicks from making things complicated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted April 25, 2020 Share Posted April 25, 2020 18 hours ago, eaglescout526 said: Blame Chrysler. Minuit and I spent about a day doing PM's on finding out who supplies Chrysler with their terminals and kits. I couldn't even find anything in the electrical connecter catalog. Given that the AMC-era connectors were such a piss-power excuse for completing electrical circuits, I would go out of my way to replace that junk with something better (unless you are attempting a "pure" restoration of your MJ/XJ.) I cannot beleive the connectors that were chosen, even in the period when the MJ/XJ was designed (the mid-1980's). There were SO MANY better connectors that had been in use for MANY years by other auto makers at that point. It's almost like the AMC electrical design team tried to surpass British Leyland in choosing the most worthless interconnect systems for the elecrtrical wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeaterComanche86 Posted April 25, 2020 Author Share Posted April 25, 2020 I think I’m gonna go with these, comes with connectors, pins, and the locks. Plus they won’t stick out like a sore thumb tucked under dash. I was tempted to spend $200 on a master set of 150’s but I think that can wait. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted April 25, 2020 Share Posted April 25, 2020 Mouser and the Delphi catalog (you can just plug the part numbers from the catalog into Mouser) is my usual source, but I buy these in bulk (often tens or hundreds of contacts at a time), your mileage may vary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeaterComanche86 Posted April 25, 2020 Author Share Posted April 25, 2020 2 hours ago, Minuit said: Mouser and the Delphi catalog (you can just plug the part numbers from the catalog into Mouser) is my usual source, but I buy these in bulk (often tens or hundreds of contacts at a time), your mileage may vary Do they come as a kit with the connectors, crimps, and locks from mouser? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted April 25, 2020 Share Posted April 25, 2020 35 minutes ago, BeaterComanche86 said: Do they come as a kit with the connectors, crimps, and locks from mouser? No. Just gotta look the part numbers up. A lot cheaper than ordering "kits" though - that's all they did to assemble the kit I'm sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeaterComanche86 Posted April 25, 2020 Author Share Posted April 25, 2020 Thanks @Minuit I’ll take a look at there website again, I originally by passed it because I had to order everything individually but if I can safe a few bucks Ill go with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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