jtdesigns Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 ok I noticed the clutch m/c has ruptured a seal and is leaking down over the fuse box in my 89 mj, looks as if it been doing it a while (years) now. theres alot of corrosion on the contacts and a few distorted fuses. I mean these fuses look crazy! What's my best option to cleaning the fuse box? You think I need to pull it, or is that to much work? I might need to swap the whole thing. how hard of a job is this? I really don't want to cut any wires if I can help it..... TIA,,,,jt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepthing07 Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 Same thing happend on mine. I used that electrical cleaner in a spray can. i noticed all the fuses were cracked and when i started pulling them out the metal contacts in the fuseblock started falling out, Not good! I have a fuse block from the same year XJ I'm going to stick in it. best bet is this stuff afaik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duner Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 I pulled a box from an xj and replaced everything including many of the metal connectors, then I made a rainshield out of aluminum in case the mc or brakes dump fluid on it again. I have not had any problems since then and my wiper squirters actually work sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lenard Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 same thing on mine, luckily i caught it in time, must be a factory flaw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted October 9, 2007 Author Share Posted October 9, 2007 Same thing happend on mine. I used that electrical cleaner in a spray can. i noticed all the fuses were cracked and when i started pulling them out the metal contacts in the fuseblock started falling out, Not good! I have a fuse block from the same year XJ I'm going to stick in it. best bet is this stuff afaik I was hoping something like this would work.. I'm going to try it first. I hope it works in my case. I pulled a box from an xj and replaced everything including many of the metal connectors, then I made a rainshield out of aluminum in case the mc or brakes dump fluid on it again. I have not had any problems since then and my wiper squirters actually work sometimes. I really wouldn't mind changing the fuse box. I'm just worried about getting over my head in wires. How hard was it to swap everything? Did you have to cut and splice any wires?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 It depends how bad it is. If you clean it and it 'works' does that mean that it will continue to work? If I was to put money on it, long term you've probably got a major problem. The corrosion will continue all all of the terminals and any wiring that's been touched by it. Most likely it'll eventually fail. Either it'll just not work (good scenario) or it'll catch fire and destroy your truck. Honestly, I hate automotive electrical. It's all crap. The plugs are all random sizes and nothing is of very good quality. Anyways, the best bet would probably be to swap fuse boxes for one that's in better shape, and inspect any other of the wiring that could be affected. Which unfortuantly is pretty much all of it. Hence I got pissed off and rewired my truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 I've got to deal with a bad fuse box in the 90 and I'm going with a Painless aftermarket fuse box. No idea if it'll be better or worse than using a factory one but it's the one I'm going to try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted October 9, 2007 Author Share Posted October 9, 2007 It depends how bad it is. If you clean it and it 'works' does that mean that it will continue to work? If I was to put money on it, long term you've probably got a major problem. The corrosion will continue all all of the terminals and any wiring that's been touched by it. Most likely it'll eventually fail. Either it'll just not work (good scenario) or it'll catch fire and destroy your truck. Honestly, I hate automotive electrical. It's all crap. The plugs are all random sizes and nothing is of very good quality. Anyways, the best bet would probably be to swap fuse boxes for one that's in better shape, and inspect any other of the wiring that could be affected. Which unfortuantly is pretty much all of it. Hence I got pissed off and rewired my truck. Yeah it's pretty bad off. Like I said some of the fuses are twisted, distorted, and looked somewhat melted by the fluid. I was hoping I wouldn't have to go with the route of changing the whole thing out. Swapping may be the only way to fully fix it though. Whats the fuse box's design? Does it pass the wires through the firewall or through a large connector though the firewall? I'm having trouble describing my question.... OK, I know some random wires will pass though the firewall, but I know on some vehicles the main wires pass through the firewall with a large connector on the back of the fuse box, put together with some sort of wax seal and a single long screw/bolt, thats the way s-10's are.... I hope this is the design of the Jeep's.. It would be alot easier to just swap the fuse box and connections under the dash then have to do both engine bay and under dash wires. with my luck probably not though..... I know how to solder and shrink-wrap wires thats just a slow PIA to do.. but I sure don't want any fires, I've had that before on my xj because of a busted power steering line and I believe an injector that started to leak really bad. sorry for the long post..........jt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted October 9, 2007 Author Share Posted October 9, 2007 I've got to deal with a bad fuse box in the 90 and I'm going with a Painless aftermarket fuse box. No idea if it'll be better or worse than using a factory one but it's the one I'm going to try. How much is the Painless bow going to set you back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 sorry for the long post..........jt Hmmm, that's pretty close to violating rule #2... :fool: I'll let it slide this time. :D http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1239 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 On the 89s they have a huge connector on the engine side of the firewall (it's actually 2 or 3 connectors, I guess) that you undo. Then you can remove the stuff in the way on inside and undo the fuse box... The exact specifics of how you're exactly supposed to do it are beyond me - mine had issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted October 9, 2007 Author Share Posted October 9, 2007 sorry for the long post..........jt Hmmm, that's pretty close to violating rule #2... :fool: I'll let it slide this time. :D http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1239 :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 I didn't pay that much but it's like a $60 item. And I'll have to combine a few of the truck's functions (or eliminate them) since there aren't quite as many fuses as the factory. It might be awhile before I try it though, so don't hold your breath. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted October 9, 2007 Author Share Posted October 9, 2007 I was thinking ..... if I remove the fuse box, can I remove the fuse connectors inside the box? Like push them though the backside. Then clean what I can, or replace what is beyond a cleaning?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 The fuse box is basely a 3" X 3" square box, male / female connector, one long bolt from the engine bay to the interior box, 2 screws on the interior to hold the box to the fire wall, and from the interior, all the wires are quick connectors. So a junk yard replacement would be the easyer way to go, no wires to splice, and less time consuming, and every thing is "plug and play" As long as you get a simular year XJ or MJ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted October 9, 2007 Author Share Posted October 9, 2007 The fuse box is basely a 3" X 3" square box, male / female connector, one long bolt from the engine bay to the interior box, 2 screws on the interior to hold the box to the fire wall, and from the interior, all the wires are quick connectors. So a junk yard replacement would be the easyer way to go, no wires to splice, and less time consuming, and every thing is "plug and play" As long as you get a simular year XJ or MJ. Keep It Simple Silly!! That just the Info I was needing! Thanks Wildman. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duner Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 When you extract your xj replacement from the salvage yard make sure the vehicle doesn't have the same problems (find an automatic trans car) and check for water damage as the windshields leak on top of the fuse box as well. When you remove the good box cut the harness about 5 or 6 inches below the box just in case you need to do some wire splicing. My mj had some local service station mechanic repairs by the PO and that caused more issues it took a solid day to fix it but it was worth it. In fact you can often by xj's cheap because half the electrical doesn't work and the owners have no idea or they were told that it would cost $700 plus to repair the vehicle so they get rid of them cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted October 9, 2007 Author Share Posted October 9, 2007 When you extract your xj replacement from the salvage yard make sure the vehicle doesn't have the same problems (find an automatic trans car) and check for water damage as the windshields leak on top of the fuse box as well. When you remove the good box cut the harness about 5 or 6 inches below the box just in case you need to do some wire splicing. My mj had some local service station mechanic repairs by the PO and that caused more issues it took a solid day to fix it but it was worth it. In fact you can often by xj's cheap because half the electrical doesn't work and the owners have no idea or they were told that it would cost $700 plus to repair the vehicle so they get rid of them cheap. so what years should I be looking for on the swap from a xj? keeping with the renix ecu'ed jeep or will a 4.0 HO do-able? I don't know if I'll be able to find a close year model thats not striped to the paint already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 No, you need to look for the Renix system, the HO it totaly diffrent :eek: Duner brings up a good point, about the auto XJ, staying away from the same problem your having now. And about getting XJ's for cheep cause of a minnor little problem (been there.....done that :brows: ) Also note, We never talk about striping parts for a MJ, well, unless you have to, there are way too many XJ to steal parts off of to keep our MJ's a-float :D Keep It Simple Silly!! That's what I like to do :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted October 10, 2007 Author Share Posted October 10, 2007 No, you need to look for the Renix system, the HO it totaly diffrent :eek: Duner brings up a good point, about the auto XJ, staying away from the same problem your having now. And about getting XJ's for cheep cause of a minnor little problem (been there.....done that :brows: ) Also note, We never talk about striping parts for a MJ, well, unless you have to, there are way too many XJ to steal parts off of to keep our MJ's a-float :D Keep It Simple Silly!! That's what I like to do :yes: The main problem I've found around here is the yards don't keep those trucks around much. Scrap is up to $8:30 a hundred # and they may just pull the engine,doors, hatch, and few other things then send it to the crusher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 Yes, that's true, the yards are cleaning up now that the price of scrap is up. Drop me a PM and I'll fix you up with what you need. Just let me know the spect's of you truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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