donald.wade3 Posted April 1, 2020 Author Share Posted April 1, 2020 When I disconnect that harness it does the same thing. Click on key on not start and click a second or 2 after turn key offSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 14 hours ago, jdog said: that four pin weather pak goes to the a/c harness. whichis the a/c relay low pressure switch and a/c compressor jdog, once again Good Eye. This should add to the confusion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdog Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 Just installed the harness in mine, only reason i knew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald.wade3 Posted April 1, 2020 Author Share Posted April 1, 2020 jdog, once again Good Eye. This should add to the confusion. So while looking in the mess yesterday there was a wire in that harness that was stripped back wrapped in e tape. I ended up cutting it and doing a bit connector on it. I believe it was an orange w/tracer wire. Could that be part of the issue I’m having if it’s running for the AC clutch?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald.wade3 Posted April 2, 2020 Author Share Posted April 2, 2020 So I have determined the clicking for the ac clutch was caused with the power jumper wire the PO used for the efan to the egr harness. Took that out and now no efan but no ac clutch click with key on and off. However there is a click on the ac clutch relay as well as the power latch relay. Couple clicks when I turn key to on. Normal?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald.wade3 Posted April 6, 2020 Author Share Posted April 6, 2020 For those reading. Installed a stand alone switch with relay for the e fan. Ran the Comanche this morning, and it ran great. No dieseling or any issues. Oil pressure hovered around 40psi and temp never got above 210. Low fuel light works. The only thing now is the dome light fuse keeps popping. How are the circuits ran on the fuse block? With the dome fuse blowing it caused my radio to go out. Radio fuse is good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted April 6, 2020 Share Posted April 6, 2020 Your electrical problems have been pretty unique. You've come a long way and I must say you've done a nice job to get it this far. I don't see any connection between the DOME fuse and the RADIO fuse. My question would be "Does the radio work when the key is in the OFF position? In other words is the radio powered off the DOME circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald.wade3 Posted April 7, 2020 Author Share Posted April 7, 2020 Your electrical problems have been pretty unique. You've come a long way and I must say you've done a nice job to get it this far. I don't see any connection between the DOME fuse and the RADIO fuse. My question would be "Does the radio work when the key is in the OFF position? In other words is the radio powered off the DOME circuit. Yeah they all seem pretty odd. I am trying to figure out the PO mess and butchering of the wiring. The radio doesn’t come on with the key off. It is strange for that to be happening though. I have also decided to add an inline fuse on my power wire for the fuel pump for now. Just to be safe for the time being. Haven’t had any problems with it really. Just everything around that pin. The lower wire is for the switch on the dash for the fan. With an inine mini fuse. One thing I have noticed as well, while trying to figure all this out, is that on some of the open pins that should be open, only one side it open, even with a fuse in to complete the circuit. Maybe I’m doing it wrong but that is testing with both a multimeter and add a fuse piggyback with 2 fusesSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted April 7, 2020 Share Posted April 7, 2020 I can see a 1pin fuse slot (ex: HTD WDW (Rear Defogger)) ,but why it would have a fuse in it, I don't know. Fuses on the output side of the fuse panel protect from the output side of the fuse panel to the component, but don't protect from additional current to the input side of the fuse panel. Are you still running fuel pump current through the IGN SW, then the FUSE PANEL? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald.wade3 Posted April 7, 2020 Author Share Posted April 7, 2020 I can see a 1pin fuse slot (ex: HTD WDW (Rear Defogger)) ,but why it would have a fuse in it, I don't know. Fuses on the output side of the fuse panel protect from the output side of the fuse panel to the component, but don't protect from additional current to the input side of the fuse panel. Are you still running fuel pump current through the IGN SW, then the FUSE PANEL? So currently I am running the fuel pump hot wire from the fuse block. Powered when key is on. This morning I have added an inline fuse with a 20amp fuse. In the previous pic of the fuse block, the wire the PO used for the fuel pump power is the upper red one that goes from the block to the ballast bypass wires spliced together. If that makes sense. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald.wade3 Posted April 7, 2020 Author Share Posted April 7, 2020 I just tried to put a new fuse in with the truck off and it popped as soon as it made contact. Twice. Once with the it off and once with it on. The driver door was open. Trying to put them in the dome slot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted April 7, 2020 Share Posted April 7, 2020 Can we do a preliminary check on the FUEL PUMP RELAY? Using a voltmeter or testlight (preferred) check for B+ on the following pins: D1_5: B+ (Hot at all times) D2_4: B+ (Hot during KEY ON/CRANKING). D1_6: KEY ON (B+ (For 2-3 seconds)) or CRANKING (B+ (Hot during CRANK)). If not, is there anyway you can use that RED wire to control a relay, then run B+ from battery (fused), to relay, to fuel pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald.wade3 Posted April 7, 2020 Author Share Posted April 7, 2020 Can we do a preliminary check on the FUEL PUMP RELAY? Using a voltmeter or testlight (preferred) check for B+ on the following pins: D1_5: B+ (Hot at all times) D2_4: B+ (Hot during KEY ON/CRANKING). D1_6: KEY ON (B+ (For 2-3 seconds)) or CRANKING (B+ (Hot during CRANK)). If not, is there anyway you can use that RED wire to control a relay, then run B+ from battery (fused), to relay, to fuel pump? Will do. Today. Have to get new light tester and multimeter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted April 7, 2020 Share Posted April 7, 2020 3 hours ago, Ωhm said: Using a voltmeter or testlight (preferred) check for B+ on the following pins: D1_5: B+ (Hot at all times) D2_4: B+ (Hot during KEY ON/CRANKING). D1_6: KEY ON (B+ (For 2-3 seconds)) or CRANKING (B+ (Hot during CRANK)). Do this test twice, once with the RED wire connected and one with the RED wire disconnected from the FUSE PANEL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald.wade3 Posted April 7, 2020 Author Share Posted April 7, 2020 Will do. If I don’t get to it today I will get it tomorrow. I appreciate all your help for sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald.wade3 Posted April 9, 2020 Author Share Posted April 9, 2020 Do this test twice, once with the RED wire connected and one with the RED wire disconnected from the FUSE PANEL. I will be doing this today. Have been super busy the last couple days with other projects around the house. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald.wade3 Posted April 9, 2020 Author Share Posted April 9, 2020 Do this test twice, once with the RED wire connected and one with the RED wire disconnected from the FUSE PANEL. So tested test light POS in pin NEG on battery(-)D1-5 no continuity- key off red wire in. D1-5 no continuity-key off red wire out. D2-4 12v with key on red wire outD2-4 continuity when key off red wire outD1-6 continuity key off red wire outD1-6 same continuity key on red wire outI also tested the circuit on the fuse block with test light. Top row of pins have continuity second row of pins I have full 12v on HAZ/STOP with key off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald.wade3 Posted April 9, 2020 Author Share Posted April 9, 2020 So would that mean I have a short in the tail lights somewhere for it to be 12v with the key off and not on the pedal?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald.wade3 Posted April 9, 2020 Author Share Posted April 9, 2020 All of my sockets look like this on the back. I’m the process of cleaning them out and using dielectric greaseSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 Need to start a testlight language: L= Light NL= No Light DL= Dim Light I'll take it that continuity=L and no continuity=NL I'm looking into D1_5. Direct feed from fuselink. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald.wade3 Posted April 9, 2020 Author Share Posted April 9, 2020 Need to start a testlight language: L= Light NL= No Light DL= Dim Light I'll take it that continuity=L and no continuity=NL I'm looking into D1_5. Direct feed from fuselink. Continuity just the cont light. The 12v it lights up to the 12v mark. Using this lightSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 Man, I'm old school. I take it that unit has a battery in it. No need for testlight language. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald.wade3 Posted April 9, 2020 Author Share Posted April 9, 2020 Yeah it does have a battery in it. Do you know what this harness is? My guess is turn turn signal/hazards?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 On 3/27/2020 at 4:52 PM, donald.wade3 said: About: 89 SWB Pioneer, auto, 96/97 HO with all Renix components to include harness. I now wonder which harnesses you got. Seems like nothing is lining up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 Could be C156. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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