Ωhm Posted March 31, 2020 Posted March 31, 2020 Looks like you didn't have to travel too far. What a mess.
donald.wade3 Posted March 31, 2020 Author Posted March 31, 2020 Looks like you didn't have to travel too far. What a mess. Agreed. Now to figure out what all goes where. And try to put it back together. I think the issue is the red wire that runs that loom back to the pass side isn’t getting power and red is usually pos Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ωhm Posted March 31, 2020 Posted March 31, 2020 RED w/trace can sometimes mean it switched B+ (relay, switch etc).
donald.wade3 Posted March 31, 2020 Author Posted March 31, 2020 RED w/trace can sometimes mean it switched B+ (relay, switch etc). This one has no trace. It runs back to the oxygen sensor heater relay. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ωhm Posted March 31, 2020 Posted March 31, 2020 88 Electrical Manual shows no RED going to O2 Heater Relay. 88EM should be the same for 89.
jdog Posted March 31, 2020 Posted March 31, 2020 34 minutes ago, Ωhm said: 88 Electrical Manual shows no RED going to O2 Heater Relay. 88EM should be the same for 89. is there one for the a/c relay?
Ωhm Posted March 31, 2020 Posted March 31, 2020 Only RED I see is as follows: Fuel Pump Relay pin1 (30) B+ Latched Relay pin1 (30) Cooling Fan Relay pin1 (30); opposite side of vehicle.
donald.wade3 Posted March 31, 2020 Author Posted March 31, 2020 Update. Pulled all relays(5) from engine bay. Bench tested for activation as well as OHMs. All tested between 74-78.5 ohms. Cleaned relay connections and wires. Pulled the looms back on driver side, from the relay harnesses that goes to the firewall to the fuse block and the one that goes to the oxygen sensor heat relay. I checked and cleaned the wire for the Ballast on the starter relay. Cleaned up and made new connections where had been spliced previous. Couple spliced wires that make no sense. E fan is pulling power from grey plug attached to EGR connector. But only comes on when key is on, AND with the hot wire from Fuse block. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ωhm Posted March 31, 2020 Posted March 31, 2020 ^^^^Anyone know what that 4-pin weatherpack connector is for?^^^^
donald.wade3 Posted March 31, 2020 Author Posted March 31, 2020 According to this is for the diode module whatever that is. I could be wrong. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
donald.wade3 Posted March 31, 2020 Author Posted March 31, 2020 So maybe not. Here is the underside of the relay group. With the red wire I was talking about. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
donald.wade3 Posted March 31, 2020 Author Posted March 31, 2020 Quick question. That might help. Running a multimeter on the starter relay, should I pull 12.4ish v on the Ballast resistor terminal with ignition on? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ωhm Posted March 31, 2020 Posted March 31, 2020 With KEY ON, voltage for 2-3 seconds only. Is your Relay Block one piece or can you separate them?
donald.wade3 Posted March 31, 2020 Author Posted March 31, 2020 With KEY ON, voltage for 2-3 seconds only. Is your Relay Block one piece or can you separate them? I can separate them into the 4 separate onesSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ωhm Posted March 31, 2020 Posted March 31, 2020 1 minute ago, donald.wade3 said: I can separate them into the 4 separate ones Okay. Looked like one piece.
donald.wade3 Posted March 31, 2020 Author Posted March 31, 2020 They were still together with that pic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
donald.wade3 Posted March 31, 2020 Author Posted March 31, 2020 Thinking about just rewriting like it was for the fuel pump and add the efan on its own circuit. With toggle switch and relaySent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ωhm Posted March 31, 2020 Posted March 31, 2020 Yea, you got a mess on your hands. I'm still wondering about that 4-Pin WeatherPack connector.
donald.wade3 Posted March 31, 2020 Author Posted March 31, 2020 Same here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
donald.wade3 Posted March 31, 2020 Author Posted March 31, 2020 So another update. Wired everything back up as previously done. Loomed everything and taped everything. Especially connections with butt connectors. Now when I turn the key over the fuel pump will prime as before, the efan will turn on as before but now my AC clutch engages. Even when pulling the ac clutch relay it still does it. Didn’t do this before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
jdog Posted March 31, 2020 Posted March 31, 2020 that four pin weather pak goes to the a/c harness. whichis the a/c relay low pressure switch and a/c compressor
donald.wade3 Posted April 1, 2020 Author Posted April 1, 2020 that four pin weather pak goes to the a/c harness. whichis the a/c relay low pressure switch and a/c compressor So that would explain why the ac clutch is now clicking. When It never did it before what did I screw upSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
donald.wade3 Posted April 1, 2020 Author Posted April 1, 2020 I didn’t do anything with that harness except put a butt connector where someone has stripped the wire backSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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