dustyniner Posted March 10, 2020 Posted March 10, 2020 So I'm going to tell a little story about my commanche. I'm going to try to remember to cover all the bases of every thing I've done recently and maybe you guys can help me figure out what's wrong. 2 weeks ago my renix 4.0 spun a bearing and within 4.0 miles blew the motor dropped cyl 1. So commence the renix tear down and removal. I had acquired a 99 xj 4.0ho. I had researched that I could out a ho block and head combined with the renix intake for a simple quick swap. While doing this I threw a ton of parts at it. Parts being "hey this would be way easier to change out of the truck". The list Oil pump Rear main seal Plugs/wires Timing chain Cps Valve cover gasket Manifold gasket/bolts T-stat /gasket(used ho housing wired temp sensor from side of block, using the ho sensor) Motor mounts Water pump /gasket Head gasket/bolts O2 sensors. Ground refresh as well Got everything in the truck......it runs rough at idle and runs super rich on intial start up but after it warms up it stops running rich but continues to run ruff. But at higher rpm the rough Ness goes away. Any ideas as to what could cause this. Thank you for your time. 1989 commanche renix 4wd long bed ho block and head renix intake
dustyniner Posted March 10, 2020 Author Posted March 10, 2020 Not sure what that means to be honest going to look at brusers tips now
dustyniner Posted March 10, 2020 Author Posted March 10, 2020 I meant to out cruisers.....I don't have an extra cap at this second will grab another new one tonight and index the distributor. Does indexing it make that much of a difference?
dustyniner Posted March 10, 2020 Author Posted March 10, 2020 Or could I just replace the pick up in the dizzy?
jdog Posted March 10, 2020 Posted March 10, 2020 Yea indexing can cause weird problems, if you replace the pickup it'll do the same thing
dustyniner Posted March 11, 2020 Author Posted March 11, 2020 so i indexed the dizzy and no change so i went and bought a new dizzy since part stores did not have the pick up module in stock. still no change in idle. any other tips i should try?
cruiser54 Posted March 11, 2020 Posted March 11, 2020 18 hours ago, dustyniner said: I meant to out cruisers.....I don't have an extra cap at this second will grab another new one tonight and index the distributor. Does indexing it make that much of a difference? YES
cruiser54 Posted March 11, 2020 Posted March 11, 2020 18 hours ago, dustyniner said: Or could I just replace the pick up in the dizzy? NO
cruiser54 Posted March 11, 2020 Posted March 11, 2020 Tips 1 through 5. Did you get the ground wires on at the dipstick tube stud? clean and shiny? which intake manifold gasket did you use? Renix or HO? How's that line from the MAP to throttle body?
dustyniner Posted March 11, 2020 Author Posted March 11, 2020 1 hour ago, cruiser54 said: Tips 1 through 5. Did you get the ground wires on at the dipstick tube stud? clean and shiny? which intake manifold gasket did you use? Renix or HO? How's that line from the MAP to throttle body? Yes but I'm going threw today after work and adding more and replacing eyelets for grounds after reading threw some of your tips again. Renix intake/exhaust gasket The vacuum line? I just replaced it.
cruiser54 Posted March 11, 2020 Posted March 11, 2020 check that vacuum line closely, especially where it connects to the throttle body. I have a tip for fixing that also. Tip 5 should be done for sure.
dustyniner Posted March 11, 2020 Author Posted March 11, 2020 6 hours ago, cruiser54 said: check that vacuum line closely, especially where it connects to the throttle body. I have a tip for fixing that also. Tip 5 should be done for sure. All grounds refreshed and 2 added.....no change.....I saw in one of your tips about the coolant temp sensor on the block......does it absolutely need to be down there? I wired mine to the thermostat housing. Does it need to move?
dustyniner Posted March 11, 2020 Author Posted March 11, 2020 Did the sensor ground test and got 00.32 ohm and it did not move from that as I was wiggling the wires
cruiser54 Posted March 11, 2020 Posted March 11, 2020 Coolant temp SENSOR goes down on the driver's side of the block to send info to ECU Temp SENDER mounts at the back of the head and provides signal to temp gauge on dash.
dustyniner Posted March 11, 2020 Author Posted March 11, 2020 In my original post I stated that I moved it to the t stat housing and no one said anything. Why is it so crucial to be there? Would it truly affect the running of the truck if it's not there
Ωhm Posted March 11, 2020 Posted March 11, 2020 I think ECT in Engine Block would have a more stable (no sudden/fluctuating changes in temperature) reading, then its current location in the T-stat housing (hottest spot of the cooling system). Engineering put it in the block. My 2¢.
jdog Posted March 11, 2020 Posted March 11, 2020 I gotta agree, that coolant would be ice cold until the thermostat opens.
cruiser54 Posted March 11, 2020 Posted March 11, 2020 I wanna know how you can install a CTS in a thermostat housing.....
dustyniner Posted March 11, 2020 Author Posted March 11, 2020 9 minutes ago, cruiser54 said: I wanna know how you can install a CTS in a thermostat housing..... The threads are the same screwed right in
cruiser54 Posted March 11, 2020 Posted March 11, 2020 That's not gonna work good. There's a reason it was engineered to be in the block.
dustyniner Posted March 15, 2020 Author Posted March 15, 2020 Okay, so after a few days of madness trying to find a 5/16 square socket I resorted to grinding an extension down. The CTS is in its correct home on the side of the block. That helped the start up but it's still not running 100% correct. Anymore ideas?
dustyniner Posted March 15, 2020 Author Posted March 15, 2020 Could using 98 injectors cause a running issue?
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