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6" Lift...what else should i expect to change


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Havent started this project yet...just trying to get some perspective on my project b4 i begin:

 

Well i have been reading up on all the projects of 6" or higher and I'm trying to plan out my stuff b4 i tear into it: Here is what i got so far

 

-4.5 RE coils

-RE drop brackets and hardware

-control arms

-ACOS

-JKS disconnects

-shocks for 6" and up

-superlift adj trackbar and RK drop bracket

-ZJ pitman arm (1" drop)

-RS5000 steering stabilizer

-SOA perches (anti-wrap)

-RS9000 rear shocks

 

things i think i need to address or need help with:

 

1. steering issues?--> i have a new drag link, ZJ tie rod now..sufficeient enough steering??

 

2. Driveline issues?-->i have the factory D44 and was wondering even if i set the correct angles will i still need a longer shaft, SYE and new driveshaft or what??

 

and anything else i forgot to mention than anyone can think of THX

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i have not done the lift yet..everything in the garage waiting to go on except the steering, ACOS and control arms (they are already on the truck with the lift i have now)...i have a RS5000 stabilizer already...thats not the issue...what I'm looking for is feedback on if my steering geometry and driveline legnths will be fine sitting a 6+ in front and rear....and input on anything esle that i might run into a problem with b4 i tear into it so I'm prepared

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its not that the stock steering setup won't work that big, but that the stock stuff is stamped steel and won't last long with a 33" tire or larger... bends easy

 

rustys has a good lookin kit out, as well as JCR offroad but the JCR kit involves drillin/reaming.

 

driveline you'll have to see, if you do a D44 or something at the same time then the pinion is 1" longer on the d44 than the d35 and that'll help but if you're jsut lifting then you may need to extend the D/S

 

edit: just read again see you have a factory d44 get someone to measure a MJ with the same driveline/bed length but a d35 and see if that shaft isnt a little bit longer, probly find someone who has one laying around if it is indeed longer

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I don't know anything about lifts.

 

 

But you need different steering. Well, it'll work. I ran STOCK steering at 6.5". It was really sweet. I mean, at full droop the tires faced each other and you had no direction control. At full bump they faced out and it was even worse. And the angles were all screwy. And it really didn't steer that well while flexing either.

 

But, you can flip the TR/DL and get it a little better, along with a ZJ pitman arm if you're cheap.

 

Or get a kit to fix it.

 

Or just make the stuff you need.

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I don't know anything about lifts.

 

 

But you need different steering. Well, it'll work. I ran STOCK steering at 6.5". It was really sweet. I mean, at full droop the tires faced each other and you had no direction control. At full bump they faced out and it was even worse. And the angles were all screwy. And it really didn't steer that well while flexing either.

 

But, you can flip the TR/DL and get it a little better, along with a ZJ pitman arm if you're cheap.

 

Or get a kit to fix it.

 

Or just make the stuff you need.

 

I've got stock steering and around the same lift and it seems fine to me. :nuts: Am I nuts?

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I don't know anything about lifts.

 

 

But you need different steering. Well, it'll work. I ran STOCK steering at 6.5". It was really sweet. I mean, at full droop the tires faced each other and you had no direction control. At full bump they faced out and it was even worse. And the angles were all screwy. And it really didn't steer that well while flexing either.

 

But, you can flip the TR/DL and get it a little better, along with a ZJ pitman arm if you're cheap.

 

Or get a kit to fix it.

 

Or just make the stuff you need.

 

I've got stock steering and around the same lift and it seems fine to me. :nuts: Am I nuts?

yep.

take a look at the TRE at the pitman arm.

It's likely near maxed out at static ride height.

Now droop the passenger side, when the TRE maxes out and binds it puts enormous strain on the pitman arm and steering box, and in turn the unibody that the box is bolted to.

I wouldn't run stock steering at 6.5", it just wasn't meant to travel that far.

Even at 4" I can see abnormal TRE wear from binding. I'm going OTK with a JCR copy.

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I don't know anything about lifts.

 

 

But you need different steering. Well, it'll work. I ran STOCK steering at 6.5". It was really sweet. I mean, at full droop the tires faced each other and you had no direction control. At full bump they faced out and it was even worse. And the angles were all screwy. And it really didn't steer that well while flexing either.

 

But, you can flip the TR/DL and get it a little better, along with a ZJ pitman arm if you're cheap.

 

Or get a kit to fix it.

 

Or just make the stuff you need.

 

I've got stock steering and around the same lift and it seems fine to me. :nuts: Am I nuts?

yep.

take a look at the TRE at the pitman arm.

It's likely near maxed out at static ride height.

Now droop the passenger side, when the TRE maxes out and binds it puts enormous strain on the pitman arm and steering box, and in turn the unibody that the box is bolted to.

I wouldn't run stock steering at 6.5", it just wasn't meant to travel that far.

Even at 4" I can see abnormal TRE wear from binding. I'm going OTK with a JCR copy.

 

Ahhh $#!& :thwak:

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the steering will be ok for now...until i put a OTK kit on it...my main concern is the rear d/s

 

i don't want to spend a bunch o money on a SYE and d/s just yet...could i get a LWB 2wd shaft and have it shortened and balaced to the correct measurement and run that or would it still be short??

 

I'm thinking a 2wd LWB shaft would be plenty long enough-->just shorten to correct length and save up for the SYE and d/s later....

 

Worth a shot?? any other D/S that would work??

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When i lifted mine up to 9in and swaped the 35 for the 44 the added length of the 44 made the d-shaft length perfict ,of course i wish i knew that the new crosmember had a 1in drop built in to it befor i set the the pinion angle . so what I'm saying is maby try finding a lwb 4x4 d-shaft that had the 35 rear and or droping the crosmember an inch, and if u want measure u d-shaft from center cap to center cap and il measure mine to see if there is any difference (and IIRC ur truck has the factory 44).

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When i lifted mine up to 9in and swaped the 35 for the 44 the added length of the 44 made the d-shaft length perfict ,of course i wish i knew that the new crosmember had a 1in drop built in to it befor i set the the pinion angle . so what I'm saying is maby try finding a lwb 4x4 d-shaft that had the 35 rear and or droping the crosmember an inch, and if u want measure u d-shaft from center cap to center cap and il measure mine to see if there is any difference (and IIRC ur truck has the factory 44).

yeah thats what i was tryin to say earlier. jamminz.gif i know the pinion on a d44 is 1" longer than a d35 but i don't know if they used the same d/s anyways.

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SWB would work...I'm thinking a LWB shaft would be better b/c i could always cut it to fit but rather not..just want to swap one in and be done with it...yea your measurement would be very helpful..THX

43" center of u-joint - center of u-joint

 

maybe 1/4" off either way but I'm pretty sure its spot on 43

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