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89 Comanche > 88 Cherokee 4x4 swap


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6 hours ago, 89MJohn said:

Now I feel dumb, I was looking for a hose connection to fit it with. Wow that 101 connector has a lot of wires!! Do all wire colors match either side of connectors or follow pins direct 1 at a time?

 

 

 

Cruiser54 has a great writeup for this.  see the link in my signature. :L:  "Cruiser's tip" should be one of the first things you see.

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Trouble in paradise :mad:

Cracked unibody where front sway bar bushing attaches to driver side, pics to come.

 

Ive been searching and reading to answer my questions to reserve good Q & A here

 

Was replacing coolant and noticed the CRACK. Maybe shes a 2 door donor again

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Welcome to the biggest money hole, yet funnest adventure you have and ever will experience. I also have a 1989, so the first thing i would do would pull up the carpets. i know that sounds counter intuitive but Comanches tend to collect water in between the carpet and the floor, and then your floor rusts out. I didn't, and now i regret it everyday, why, because i didn't my floors rusted out, and now i have a 10" by 4" hole under my clutch foot. A new floor pan could run you about 100 to 150 bucks, IF you do our own welding. I got mine with the original motor (V6 2.8L) because of that also bought a Cherokee that had a I6 4.0. From that same Cherokee i got a 9.5" lift, 4wd transfer case, and Dana 44 axles. I bought that Cherokee for $1,500 because the rear passenger side leaf spring fasten point had broken and the previous owner was done with Jeeps.

 

Difficulty wise.

If you aren't doing anything major( tranny swap, transfer, motor swap) it isn't hard at all. YouTube has almost everything you will need to know. If you are getting into the bigger swaps or lifts i would suggest getting a friend to help or ask the question on here so you aren't working in a big circle, and we can offer advise on what works and what doesn't.

 

Yet again, welcome to owning a Comanche. It is probably the most looked at vehicle when you go into town.

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On 11/6/2019 at 11:01 AM, Smokeyyank said:

That is what ended up killing my XJ.....

You can put this on 

https://www.c-rok4x4.com/c-rok-online-store/C-ROK-Cherokee-XJ-Front-Frame-Stiffiners-p38115469

 

 

Thanks for the link, other one I had didn't work. I like the looks of the c rok plates how they wrap under sway bar mount points.

 

Will the pair of c rok front stiffeners be enough or something else also?

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On 11/8/2019 at 6:01 AM, Wallace Krempa said:

Welcome to the biggest money hole, yet funnest adventure you have and ever will experience. I also have a 1989, so the first thing i would do would pull up the carpets.

 

Difficulty wise.

If you aren't doing anything major( tranny swap, transfer, motor swap) it isn't hard at all. YouTube has almost everything you will need to know. If you are getting into the bigger ask the question on here so you aren't working in a big circle, and we can offer advise on what works and what doesn't.

 

Yet again, welcome to owning a Comanche. It is probably the most looked at vehicle when you go into town.

Hope the money pit is a more adventurous workhorse then a cash hog. We will see. I feel it wants to be saved

 

Ive climbed underneath and all floors look solid from below front to back.  Still worth pulling it up??

 

Difficulty wise, direct swap from a renix donor 4x4 xj with an aw4 is the plan. Sounds like the rear axle will require work with perches and mounts. That is where I will surely struggle. I can barely weld and have a craftsman professional 220v mig welder to learn with.

 

ALSO JUST NOTICED A TEAR IN TOP PART OF DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR HINGE.

 

Is this a common issue with the short Comanche doors?? I will get a picture soon

 

My first trip to town turning heads is something I look forward to. I will drag Comanche avenue and get pictures at the offramp sign

 

Donor xj??

$150?

2019-11-08-17-44-57.png.e5ee779a00e6f3bf9ca8fee5cea8ea57.png

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3 hours ago, 89MJohn said:

ALSO JUST NOTICED A TEAR IN TOP PART OF DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR HINGE.

 

Is this a common issue with the short Comanche doors?? I will get a picture soon

 

 

Very common. The factory had two repair kits to address it, depending on how bad the crack was. It can (and should) be welded up.

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5 hours ago, 89MJohn said:

Ive climbed underneath and all floors look solid from below front to back.  Still worth pulling it up??

 

Difficulty wise, direct swap from a renix donor 4x4 xj with an aw4 is the plan. Sounds like the rear axle will require work with perches and mounts. That is where I will surely struggle. I can barely weld and have a craftsman professional 220v mig welder to learn with.

 

Looking underneath the truck can only give you half the picture, but in the end it is your truck and up to you. 

 

Welding wise the video below is a really good demonstration on what the settings on the welder need to look like to make a good weld (and how it should sound). Getting a good weld if you haven't taken a class will take some time to learn what you have to do. 

If there are any vocational schools in your area I would suggest taking a welding class through one. In my area they are 100 bucks every Tuesday and Thursday nights for 8 weeks. Probably on of the most useful classes i have ever taken. MIG welders are definitely the easiest welders to learn on, and a 220 is a nice sized machine. 

 

If i may make a suggestion. I look at my welders like i look at my boots. If i am going to be using them a lot or often, i wouldn't want a cheap P.O.S. that is not going to do what i would like or is going to hurt me. I would spend the upfront money and get a good machine. It doesn't have to be a big machine, but a brand that has a very good reputation behind it. Like a Lincoln or a MSC Industrial etc. If you find that you like your welder a lot and it lasts that's great, but i haven't found the Harbor Freight, craftsman, or home depot special to be the most reliable.

 

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9 hours ago, 89MJohn said:

Ive climbed underneath and all floors look solid from below front to back.  Still worth pulling it up??

 

MJs rot from the inside-out.  frames, rockers, bedsides, floors.  there are 20 + ways for water to enter the cab and once there, it'll rot your floors. :(  it's best to know for sure what you're dealing with.  Even if I pulled up my carpets and everything was factory fresh, I'd still probably take the opportunity to coat and protect the metal. 

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13 hours ago, 89MJohn said:

 

Will the pair of c rok front stiffeners be enough or something else also?

 

Have the crack welded up, then install the brace(s).

 

Be sure whoever does the welding knows you'll be adding the brace. The weld should get good penetration so it can be ground fairly flush on the underside to allow the brace to be installed, without removing all of the weld.

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19 hours ago, 89MJohn said:

Thanks for the link, other one I had didn't work. I like the looks of the c rok plates how they wrap under sway bar mount points.

 

Will the pair of c rok front stiffeners be enough or something else also?

It would t be the worst idea to put front stiffeners all the way around to plating more of the unibody. Obviously will have to work around the crok kit but will be the best route.

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6 hours ago, Eagle said:

 

Have the crack welded up, then install the brace(s).

 

Be sure whoever does the welding knows you'll be adding the brace. The weld should get good penetration so it can be ground fairly flush on the underside to allow the brace to be installed, without removing all of the weld.

I am fishing for someone in the tehachapi CA (Bakersfield) area that can help with the welding. I'd be happy to pay, have beer, food, a garage with 240v for welding and know good local trails.

 

ANYONE??

 

Is this something a local frame and body shop can handle well or should I get it done by someone who cares...

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10 hours ago, Pete M said:

 

MJs rot from the inside-out.  frames, rockers, bedsides, floors.  there are 20 + ways for water to enter the cab and once there, it'll rot your floors. :(  it's best to know for sure what you're dealing with.  Even if I pulled up my carpets and everything was factory fresh, I'd still probably take the opportunity to coat and protect the metal. 

I would absolutely rather know for sure, so I will make a day out of each and wash carpet while it's out, and coat the floors!

 

Rustoleum, bedliner, other, which is best and most cost effective?

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On 11/14/2019 at 2:07 AM, Eagle said:

 

Very common. The factory had two repair kits to address it, depending on how bad the crack was. It can (and should) be welded up.

 

Looks bad to me, door doesnt open smoothly so that contributed to tear I think. 

 

Closes fine but is stiff opening 

Lower

1115191359.jpg.29d8cffa1485c936545b1efc89861a9b.jpg

Upper

1115191400a.jpg.fa729ba428729d5f6aa0b852fe748ec9.jpg

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