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88 4X4 Longbed Pioneer - 4.0 5 spd


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Picked up a Tonneau cover from Downey Products - not sure how many companies make MJ specific Tonneau's, but this one is definitely made for the Comanche - 1" difference between the front & rear of bed in width - the bows also staggered to match the taper.  Looks pretty good - shipped in a single box from Downey

 

 

jc tonneau pack.jpg

JC Tonneau.jpg

JC Tonneau 1.jpg

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Threw some tint on the windows - with no AC (yet) anything helps.

 

The rear slider needs to be replaced, the passenger side window needs to come out and all the felts/slides need to be replaced so did not opt to spend the money yet for professional tint - used some of the static cling style rolls they have at LAPS - hard to get all the bubbles out, but no adhesive mess to deal with and can just take them off if necessary - should work as a temporary solution.

 

 

jc tonneau tint.jpg

jc tonneau tint 1.jpg

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33 minutes ago, Pete M said:

a tonneau that fits?!  ooo, I'm going to need to look into that on

 

Seems like it is put together with quality materials - the rear bar and all three bows pop right off and you can rap the tonneau around them and stow behind the seat in just a couple minutes - makes using the full bed no problem.  The frame is clamped to the rails so no--drill installation.  Fit and finish is good - $299 shipped.  Tailgate opens and closes with tonneau in place.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Shout out to Spencer at jeepsticker.com

 

He hooked me up with new decals for the tailgate - these are really nice, show up as black during the day but really "pop" at night reflecting headlights (need to get night pictures)

 

 

jc sticker 1.jpg

jc sticker.jpg

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Starting to use the truck as intended for weekend stuff - got in a bike ride over the holiday, this bike rack is way overkill for a little truck that can barely carry 3 people, but I can transport bikes for friends that otherwise have to stuff them in trunks of cars.

 

 

jc bike 1.jpg

jc bike.jpg

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Keep plugging away fixing stuff...

 

Got the headlight harness upgrade done, along with finishing up the battery cable upgrade - moved some cables around, still need to work on routing.

 

Still need to do the main ground from the firewall to the stud at the back of the motor - that one is a biotch to get at, think I am going to do it when I replace the valve cover gasket.

 

 

jc cables.jpg

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The stereo in the rig was pretty sad - had an aftermarket Panasonic CD head unit pushing all four of the original (30 year old) speakers and they were done.

 

Consumer electronics are as cheap as they have ever been - picked up a Sony mechless head unit, 4 Kicker speakers to replace the factory units and a 400w Powered Sub  - whole system for less than $200 brand new (the Sony head unit is a mechless marine model - got them on sale for $45 bought two so have one for the boat) 

 

Pulling the dash and interior panels apart was interesting - broke a couple of mounting tabs behind the dash, but nothing tragic.  The factory wiring for the fog lights, cargo lights, etc is all there even though the truck was not optioned with them.

 

Fairly straight forward process - the audio place wanted $600+ to install the system so I DIY'd it - took me a while but got it done over the weekend, sounds pretty good.

 

While I was at it, upgraded the dome lights.

 

 

jc audio upgrade.jpg

jc deck install.jpg

jc old dome.jpg

jc new dome.jpg

jc dome lit.jpg

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Wax on/Wax off.......

 

Trying to get the paint where I want it, one section at a time - got after the front clip this weekend, hood and fenders.

 

Started with Mequires Medium Cut Cleaner, then Mequires Ulitmate Polish and finished with Mequires Gold Carnuba Paste Wax.

 

All by hand (why I only finished the front clip)....now thinking maybe I can dig up the $$$ for one of those random orbital buffers after all. 

 

Looking at the pictures - can still see a bunch of compound in the seams and jambs - sloppy, need to get that cleaned up.

 

Got the 4x4 and Comanche emblems back on (Plasti dipped) 

 

 

 

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Did a budget boost over the weekend.....

 

Spacers & Shackles - 1-3/4 Daystar pucks & RC shackles.

 

Front measurements before lift:

 

31-3/4 from ground to lowest edge of flair

 

18-1/4 from center of hub to lowest edge of flair

 

Rear:

 

33 from ground to lowest edge of flair

 

19-1/2 from center of hub to lowest edge of flair

 

Front measurements after lift:

 

33-1/2 from ground to lowest edge of flair

 

20 from center of hub to lowest edge of flair.

 

Rear:

 

34-1/4 from ground to lowest edge of flair

 

20-3/4 from center of hub to lowest edge of flair

 

So, got 1-3/4" up front and 1-1/4" in back.

 

That job is tougher than you would think - figured I'd knock it out by myself in a few hours, ended up taking most of the day - couldn't find my deep 21mm socket so had to muscle the shackle bolts off with a crescent wrench and a cheater, took forever.  The front axle rotated back when I pulled the passenger side LCA - had to use a bottle jack to push everything back into place - stuff like that really slowed it down.

 

Got before & after pics - the one with the flag is the after.....

 

jc budget boost parts.jpg

jc budget boost parts 1.jpg

jc pre boost.jpg

jc budget boost.jpg

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7 minutes ago, WahooSteeler said:

Looks great! Love what you've done with this truck. Any further plans?

 

Appreciate it.

 

Should have tires this week - got a cousin in the business owes me a favor - says I got a set of 31 x 10.5 x 15 BFG K02 A/T's on the way - tracking says delivery on Thursday.

 

Got the WJ LCA's from Rock Auto but still have to cut em down and install - also picked up an Air Lift suspension kit to help with towing - but wanted tires on first to make sure there is no interference and since I put those shackles on, might need to buy or fab up spacers for the air bags - not sure.

 

After that, interior gets some help - dash is all original and will leave as is for now - wanting to do a seat up grade, got brackets on order with Krusty, am thinking the 40/20/40 Dakota seats - needs headliner...

 

This list goes on..

 

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Love the BFGs, I run the same on Ravine wheels. Also have the WJ lowers, big difference not only from no rubbing on full lock but just "tightened up" the front end. And yes, the list is endless. Every time I think I make some progress either new things get added by choice or necessity LOL. 

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Got the tires on it, looks pretty good.

 

31 x 10.5 x 15 on factory rims with a budget boost = very minimal rubbing on LCA's - have the WJ LCA's that will go on eventually but for now driveable as is.

 

Need to get trailer wiring done and air bags in so it is ready for towing the boat as the season is in full swing up here.

 

 

jc tires.jpg

jc tires 1.jpg

jc tires 2.jpg

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26 minutes ago, Pete M said:

that is a good looking truck right there :drool:

Appreciate that - looks even better in person, been getting a lot of comments on it when out and about.

 

Crew at the tire shop really were into it - thought maybe they'd give me grief about going with non-factory tire size but they were all over it, did the swap and some trailer tires for me for practically nothing.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got out after some fish this weekend - shake down run for the boat & the MJ - kilt more beers than salmon, but nothing broke and weather was above par.

 

Revised weight calc on the boat & trailer - closer to 3500 than 2500 - and that truck knows it is back there, think it will be fine for local lakes and close in access points for Puget Sound - but don't think I'll be dragging it to the coast just not enough grunt and hauling it over the pass to Eastern Wash is out of the question - at least for now.

 

Thinking if I get the air lift suspension kit on there, upgrade the brakes and wring a little more power out of the mill (Throttle body upgrade) might re-evaluate.

 

 

jc gone fishin.jpg

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With a 5spd you almost certainly have 3.07's so gearing should solve your towing sluggishness for sure. What rear axle do you have? Not sure what the carrier break is from 3.07's but you might be able to go to 3.54's without having to upgrade the carrier. That said, most will tell you if you're going to tow the boat a lot and/or want to tow it on longer trips with mountain grades you probably need to consider 3.73's or 4.10's. 

 

Great gear ratio calculator posted by Limeyjeeper.......

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

 

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35 minutes ago, WahooSteeler said:

With a 5spd you almost certainly have 3.07's so gearing should solve your towing sluggishness for sure. What rear axle do you have? Not sure what the carrier break is from 3.07's but you might be able to go to 3.54's without having to upgrade the carrier. That said, most will tell you if you're going to tow the boat a lot and/or want to tow it on longer trips with mountain grades you probably need to consider 3.73's or 4.10's. 

 

Yep, pretty sure 3.07 dana 35 rear end - also sure that is what sluggy's problem is.

 

If there is a way to upgrade to 3.54 cheap/easy that would be worth a try - most of the threads on here suggest not to invest too much into a 35 (I won't be using sluggy for wheeling, but dragging 3500 around on the freeway and up/down slippery gravel launches will give a workout)

 

Will be investigating quick n dirty gearing swap.

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46 minutes ago, 88comanchesurvivor said:

 

Yep, pretty sure 3.07 dana 35 rear end - also sure that is what sluggy's problem is.

 

If there is a way to upgrade to 3.54 cheap/easy that would be worth a try - most of the threads on here suggest not to invest too much into a 35 (I won't be using sluggy for wheeling, but dragging 3500 around on the freeway and up/down slippery gravel launches will give a workout)

 

Will be investigating quick n dirty gearing swap.

 

I just looked it up and the D30 is ok up to 3.54s but you'd need a new carrier on your D35 to go to 3.54s or higher. Using the grimmjeeper gear calculator, you're turning 200-300 less rpms now that you have 31" tires on there, and looks like 3.31 gears basically get you back to "stock" RPMs which you could put in there without needing a new carrier. I'm no expert but I'd say you'd want to do at least 3.54s and you'll be able to tow that boat no problem. The new carrier for the rear does not add a ton of money, @$60-150 depending on if you get used or new, but it still adds up. Same for the gears, you could try to find a used set but logic says most people upgrade their whole axle from a D35 vs putting money in to gearing, so finding used D35 gearing may be hard to find.

 

If you look out for a D44 from an automatic MJ it will most likely have 3.54s in it already, that was the stock setup. For the cost of new gears and carrier for your D35 you very well may find a good D44 and be able to clean it up with new seals etc for the same or not much more money. The MJ D44 will be the easiest "plug and play" but you could also consider an XJ D44 or 8.25, but they will take a little more work to make fit IIRC. Others will have to comment on what that entails, I'm not super knowledgeable on that setup. 

 

For what you've already invested in the truck, IMO you'll be much happier with this approach as it will best meet your needs and be more reliable over time. 

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10 minutes ago, WahooSteeler said:

If you look out for a D44 from an automatic MJ it will most likely have 3.54s in it already, that was the stock setup. For the cost of new gears and carrier for your D35 you very well may find a good D44 and be able to clean it up with new seals etc for the same or not much more money. The MJ D44 will be the easiest "plug and play"

 

Ok - I am officially looking for an MJ D44 with at least 3.54 gearing - like that idea better than messing with the (not broke yet) 35.  

 

Have to start scouring the web - Fleabay, car-part.com, row52...maybe even luck out on Craigslist

 

 

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5 minutes ago, 88comanchesurvivor said:

 

Ok - I am officially looking for an MJ D44 with at least 3.54 gearing - like that idea better than messing with the (not broke yet) 35.  

 

Have to start scouring the web - Fleabay, car-part.com, row52...maybe even luck out on Craigslist

 

 

 

:L: Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace are your friends

 

You should also go ahead and create a signature with your truck specs, helps with others giving advice or recommendations on future questions. 

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