Battery Problems?

[SomeNew Name]

FX I can see where you are going with that jazz.. and I thought the same.. actually it's weird that you mention that cause I picked up a new dist today.. but it's a 3 week wait for the coil.. but right now spark isn't really the problem... it's more or less finding out why my battery is taking a S*#$ on my chest.. or what the hell is robbing the juice from it..

[HOrnbrod]

Suggest next logical step is to bring your battery to AutismZone or Sears (anywhere) and get a load test to eliminate the battery.

[FxRacing282]

righ well if your coils junk you could be "charging" your frame and thus resulting in to battery power

[SomeNew Name]

yeah I'm going to try and get that battery up to Canadian tire to get those bastards to load test it......

[jaekl]

I'm jumping in here late, but it sounds like good old dirty battery terminals or clamps. When you measure 2.56 volts, are you testing on the battery or the clamps? After running disconnect the battery and measure the voltage on the battery. Since it runs fine, I say the rest of the circuit (alternator etc) is fine.

[SomeNew Name]

so I got the battery load tested and it failed and they replaced it for free.... but I still have a feeling something is killing it over time.. any ideas?

[FxRacing282]

nope... give it time maybe your hunch is wrong :redX:

[Pete M]

I would take the alternator in to get the free check up on it. It might not be putting out enough amps to fully charge the battery.

[SomeNew Name]

well see FX.. if you knew this truck like I did you wouldn't be saying that champ..

 

If this was the first time this happened, I would agree with you, but it's not over the last year or so I've had to replace my batt 3-4 times due to this issue.. and it's recurring, but the truck also does sit for extended periods of time.. cause I drive the girls grand prix to work and back.. and it's in pretty rough shape right now, as I've been working on it over the last year and a half.. Slowly..

 

I think pete is on the right path.. but for myself.. I take their suggestive methods into consideration.. but I always try to take the more cost effictive approach... but with alternators I can test the Rotor and stator myself.. and those diodes are all servicible in there right now.. and the output is right where it should be.. so the problem lies elsewhere.. I guess I have neglected alot of information,

[Pete M]

If it sits for long periods of time, try simply disconnecting the battery.

[DirtyComanche]

Wakka, you can get a real battery up in the cold north. Anybody who deals interstate batteries can get you an optima. The blue/yellow ones are most resistant to being run flat. However, the reds will take a beating too, and provide simply stunning short term cranking amps (mine tested at 1026CCA, not bad for being rated at 800). Not to mention they don't puke acid, and don't weigh as much.

 

But I'll admit that the reason I run one is because I got it for $100. Brand spanking new. It's good to know an interstate dealer.

 

 

Oh, is your alternator's internal regulator actually allowing enough voltage output? 14.4 would be the minimum to get a full charge on the battery. I don't know ANYTHING about internal voltage regulators other than that they normally work so you don't touch them. But I've had an alternator that would not produce enough voltage to properly charge the battery. Output hovered around 12.5-13V. Why, I am not sure. I sold that pile before I checked into it.

 

Otherwise it just seems like the typical annoying parasitic loss problem. An amp clamp works wonders on figuring that out.