dustyinthedirt Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 The temp gauge says it’s in the red but I have never had it boil over. I found the electric fan is not cutting on so I straight wired it to see if that would fix my problem. Nope. Also noticed that the radiator cap (this has been switched to a open cooling system already) was not even hot and I could take it off when the gauge says it is over heating. The bottom radiator hose is only slightly warm. And still kinda squishy when the engine is on and “overheating” which makes me think it’s the water pump. I usually install a thermostat and a water pump together. So I installed a new thermostat first since it is easy to do. Still the same problems. The cap doesn’t get hot and lower hose is still only warm. Except on this drive I developed a belt chirping once the temp got to half way. I’m thinking it’s the water pump. I turned the heat on and have let it run while seeing if it needed to be topped off. Also I’m only getting warm air out the vents. With the cap open and truck running you can see the water churning a little bit. . Could my belt be to loose and it not be able to get a good grip on the pulley? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 If there's no indication of it running hot other than the gauge, could be a bad sender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustyinthedirt Posted March 3, 2018 Author Share Posted March 3, 2018 Would a bad sender cause the fan not to work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 12 minutes ago, dustyinthedirt said: Would a bad sender cause the fan not to work No, it's on it's own separate circuit, has it's own switch, relay, etc. Lots of the time something is wrong with the circuit or fan itself, and nobody does anything about it because it isn't really needed other than on really hot days when loading the cooling system heavily. If it's not actually getting hot, it won't come on anyways. I'm guessing you have a bad gauge or sender, or there's a wiring/ground issue on it that's making it read erroneous. Senders are cheap and easy to change, I'd try that first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustyinthedirt Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 Okay ill get a sender and install that. Its never actually boiled over so thats why i was confused Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustyinthedirt Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 I drove the truck around for twenty minutes yesterday. The temp gauge stayed in the red but it never boiled over. the sender for the gauge is the little elbow at the back of the head right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 You said you can take your rad cap off while the truck is hot and it doesn't boil over? That there tells me you have a cooling issue not a sender issue. I would pull the serpentine belt off and spin your waterpump by hand to see if it has any play in it side to side or if it is hard to turn. Either way it sounds to me that your waterpump is bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustyinthedirt Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share Posted March 6, 2018 That’s what I figured. It doesn’t smell hot though. I haven’t been driving it since the other day. I pulled the belt off and checked the pump a few days ago. And it didn’t have any play. The lower hose is significantly cooler then the upper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 If it doesn't boil over or blow coolant out of the rad with the cap off, it can't be getting that hot. If it's getting hot and the water pump is dead, it will heat the coolant above boiling in the block and when you pull the cap off it will flash to steam and blow coolant everywhere... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustyinthedirt Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share Posted March 6, 2018 Yeah that hasn’t happened when I pulled the cap off. I have a sender waiting on me at Napa. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 Something just doesn't make sense here. How long are you running it before you decide it isn't getting hot? If it runs for 5-10 mins and you pull the rad cap off, you should have water boiling out no matter what the gauge says. You said you have driven it to test so I assume that's more than 5 mins. Are you sure there is coolant in it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustyinthedirt Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 there’s plenty of coolant. And I drove it for twenty minutes at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzimm Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 1 hour ago, dustyinthedirt said: there’s plenty of coolant. And I drove it for twenty minutes at a time. In that case you probably have a clog somewhere that isn't allowing coolant to circulate through your rad at all. You should have coolant boiling out of the cap for sure by 20 mins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustyinthedirt Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 I got the new sender and the same. I hooked a mechanical gauge up and it read 230 was the highest it got. I have had a water pump and gasket on the shelf for a bit. I'm just gonna take the time and wash the radiator out and put the new pump on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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