Semi-metallic brake shoes

[NC Tom]

Anyone have any experience with these: https://www.carparts.com/details/Jeep/Comanche/Powerstop/Brake_Shoe_Set/1988/Pioneer/6_Cyl_4-dot-0L/P15B267.html

 

I'm looking at semi-metallic because of the mountain driving. The Jeep auto 2-1 gear set-up seems truly retarded to me, so I ride my brakes more than I would like.

[cruiser54]

Couldn't hurt I guess. I used that kind of stuff back in the day.

 

If you have a Dana 35 rear, why not do the zJ rear disc swap? 

[NC Tom]

Couldn't hurt I guess. I used that kind of stuff back in the day.
 
If you have a Dana 35 rear, why not do the zJ rear disc swap? 

Haven't really looked into a swap. Figured it be kind of pricey.

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[cruiser54]

4 minutes ago, NC Tom said:

Haven't really looked into a swap. Figured it be kind of pricey.

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It's not pricey if you get the parts from Big David on Cherokee Forum. 

 

You know, with those shoes, if you don't have the drums turned and the shoes arced to the drums, you won't see much of an improvement.

 

Ever removed the drums, cleaned off the shoes with brake cleaner and adjusted them properly?

[NC Tom]

It's not pricey if you get the parts from Big David on Cherokee Forum. 
 
You know, with those shoes, if you don't have the drums turned and the shoes arced to the drums, you won't see much of an improvement.
 
Ever removed the drums, cleaned off the shoes with brake cleaner and adjusted them properly?

I have not seen the rears, yet. I'll check with Big Dave.

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[cruiser54]

I would look at the rear shoes first.

[carnuck]

I would make sure the load valve is working or bypassed altogether because the downhills allow the rear to come up and shut off rear flow.
When I put 33” tires on with 10” brakes, I went to amc eagle wagon rear wheel cyls which are slightly bigger bore.


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[HOrnbrod]

56 minutes ago, carnuck said:

I would make sure the load valve is working or bypassed altogether because the downhills allow the rear to come up and shut off rear flow.

 

This is BS. The "rear flow" never gets shut off no matter what position the LSV arm is in.

[carnuck]

 
This is BS. The "rear flow" never gets shut off no matter what position the LSV arm is in.

If it’s functioning correctly it won’t. I bypassed mine because it dropped all pressure on the bumpy downhill of my gravel driveway with empty box and an add a leaf.


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[HOrnbrod]

5 minutes ago, carnuck said:

If it’s functioning correctly it won’t.

 

 

Then your's was AFU. You can disconnect the arm and wire it in any position and still have rear brakes. Do you think the factory would put a valve on the rear supply that could shut off the rear brakes?  

[carnuck]

  Then your's was AFU. You can disconnect the arm and wire it in any position and still have rear brakes. Do you think the factory would put a valve on the rear supply that could shut off the rear brakes?  

 

 

That’s why I said to ensure it’s functioning. Brakes are a good thing. My return line was rusted through by the sensor valve.

 

 

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[NC Tom]

Well, I haven't made any progress on this at all. I may just go with ceramic and see how long they last on these mountains.

[cruiser54]

8 hours ago, carnuck said:

 

That’s why I said to ensure it’s functioning. Brakes are a good thing. Mine was rusted through by the valve.

 

 

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And before aliens from Mars take over our load sensing valves, poison us, and chew through our metal brake lines. It's a conspiracy, I tell ya!!!!!

Not only should we put on our tin foil hats, we should wrap our brake valves in tin foil also. Let's stop this insanity!!!!!!!!

[carnuck]

Edited to make more sense.

[NC Tom]

On 3/12/2018 at 8:46 PM, cruiser54 said:

And before aliens from Mars take over our load sensing valves, poison us, and chew through our metal brake lines. It's a conspiracy, I tell ya!!!!!

Not only should we put on our tin foil hats, we should wrap our brake valves in tin foil also. Let's stop this insanity!!!!!!!!

 

Well, I decided to go with plain ol' ceramic. This was my first "modern" drum brake job, and what a P.I.T.A.!!!!! It's one of those projects that I would recommend a service guy do, if funds are available, or if just like to punish yourself. And, while I did wear a tinfoil hat, I don't think it helped much!

[cruiser54]

22 hours ago, NC Tom said:

 

Well, I decided to go with plain ol' ceramic. This was my first "modern" drum brake job, and what a P.I.T.A.!!!!! It's one of those projects that I would recommend a service guy do, if funds are available, or if just like to punish yourself. And, while I did wear a tinfoil hat, I don't think it helped much!

The disc conversion is probably easier!! LOL. No tin foil hat required. 

 

I hate working on drum brakes. 

[Eagle]

On 3/12/2018 at 11:51 AM, carnuck said:

 

That’s why I said to ensure it’s functioning. Brakes are a good thing. My return line was rusted through by the sensor valve.

 

 

There is no "return" line in the rear brake circuit. The second line is am emergency bypass line. If that's rusted through, you probably had no brakes because you had no brake fluid.

[carnuck]

 
There is no "return" line in the rear brake circuit. The second line is am emergency bypass line. If that's rusted through, you probably had no brakes because you had no brake fluid.

How does it bypass when the end at the front valve isn’t even drilled? It’s been a pain design that fills with air from the system if left open during an axle swap or something.


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[Eagle]

You've been looking at my cutaway photo? That one had to be defective. Since the second line is screwed into a blanked-off port in the front distribution block, it would not have functioned as a bypass ... but since it was not drilled through, if it were a return line it also couldn't function as a return line. I haven't cut apart any others to see if they are likewise defective, but it's clear from the design that the intent is for the second line to serve as a bypass circuit to provide full pressure to the rear brakes if the fronts fail.

 

The description in the FSM confirms that it's a bypass.