Pete M Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 for the FM issue, send a message to Minuit. He knows just about all there is to know about the oem radios. (including how to get an AUX port in them) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 On 1/17/2018 at 1:48 AM, PCO6 said: I'm not as familiar with the JK MOAB wheels or if they're even called that. They are 5x5" so adapters are needed. They come in 17" dia. (not sure about 16") but they are generally flat, not dished like the TJ wheels. I have JK Moab wheels on my MJ (and my JK, and I have 2.5 spare sets ). Yes, they're called Moab wheels, yes they're 5x5", yes they're 17" only, and yes they're nearly a flat face. I forget what the actual backspacing/offset is on them, but they don't stick out a lot. If you ran WJ knuckles and some aftermarket rear shafts or redrilled ones they'd probably work great with the JK car tire type takeoffs. Of course JK takeoff tires are now starting to dry up, so it's probably not worth pursuing unless a guy really wanted the look of the 17" wheels. OP, I'd check that your antenna is actually hooked up. AM comes in a lot easier than FM without an antenna. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 On 1/17/2018 at 2:09 AM, PCO6 said: I agree. Personally, I would avoid adapters even with modified sheet metal, flares, etc. I have them on my trailer (had to) and I constantly check to ensure they are properly torqued. Just my opinion but that's a hassle I wouldn't want to go through on a road vehicle. I check them every time I have a wheel off, since it takes about 30 seconds extra per... Never had an issue, and I've run them on lots of vehicles. The key is to install them correctly the first time. That said I avoid pulling the adapters off, because it forces you to do a painful retorque where you pull your wheels off again to retorque them, then you again have to retorque the wheels again since you had them off to retorque the adapters... Although I'll point out that to do my current MJ over again I 100% would just buy a set of JK axles and not look back. (I'll stop hijacking this thread now) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PCO6 Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 3 hours ago, DirtyComanche said: I check them every time I have a wheel off, since it takes about 30 seconds extra per... Never had an issue, and I've run them on lots of vehicles. The key is to install them correctly the first time. That said I avoid pulling the adapters off, because it forces you to do a painful retorque where you pull your wheels off again to retorque them, then you again have to retorque the wheels again since you had them off to retorque the adapters... Although I'll point out that to do my current MJ over again I 100% would just buy a set of JK axles and not look back. (I'll stop hijacking this thread now) I agree re the double torquing ... not fun. JK axles would be a bit of work but not a bad way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooSteeler Posted March 30, 2018 Share Posted March 30, 2018 On 1/12/2018 at 9:17 PM, Pete M said: just need to trim the metal bushing to be flush with the rubber bushing. before on the right: Pete, does the other end need to have the same done? Also, as DesertRat asked, is there any other mod needed, i.e. as you have done to the end there or on the buckets? I thought I read on here somewhere if you don't grind down the ends on the axle side they will press against the axle when they are moving in the rubber bushing. Getting ready to do this today or tomorrow so want to get it right the first time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 30, 2018 Share Posted March 30, 2018 yes, I trimmed the other bushing too. this is the other trimming I did (though I don't know if it's truly necessary for a DD as I was just playing around to maximum droop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooSteeler Posted March 30, 2018 Share Posted March 30, 2018 Thanks Pete. This seems like a pretty straightforward remove & install, any tips or things to look out for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 30, 2018 Share Posted March 30, 2018 the axle likes to twist and not let you put the last bolt in easy. big pipe wrenches and ratchet straps have occasionally been employed to tweak the holes to line up. and if you're just replacing the arms, do one side and then the other so the axle and coils don't get crazy on you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooSteeler Posted March 30, 2018 Share Posted March 30, 2018 3 minutes ago, Pete M said: the axle likes to twist and not let you put the last bolt in easy. big pipe wrenches and ratchet straps have occasionally been employed to tweak the holes to line up. and if you're just replacing the arms, do one side and then the other so the axle and coils don't get crazy on you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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