carnuck Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Thats normal though right? That’s why there are droparms and tracbar relocator kits. The side to side goes away almost completely if you make it sit level. http://bulletproofsteering.com/geometry.htmlSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 2 minutes ago, carnuck said: That’s why there are droparms and tracbar relocator kits. The side to side goes away almost completely if you make it sit level.http://bulletproofsteering.com/geometry.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Great link, really helps explain it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbarber16 Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 On 11/1/2017 at 6:09 PM, carnuck said: If you don’t have longarms, then the tracbar will push/ pull depending on how far off level to the axle it is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I’ve got long arms. Rustys jeepspeed kit actually. I bought a rustys track bar too, with a drop bracket. I'm pretty sure the angle the track bar is at is too severe. And it’s moving the axle side to side. I guess I’ll have to order a new track bar and mount it on the top side of the axle. And hope that it won’t come in contact with anything. I’ll do some research. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 How is the jeepspeed 4 link kit from rusty's? Does it work well with your lift? I know you are building a prerunner but how is the flex? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbarber16 Posted November 10, 2017 Author Share Posted November 10, 2017 On 11/8/2017 at 1:41 PM, Swampy said: How is the jeepspeed 4 link kit from rusty's? Does it work well with your lift? I know you are building a prerunner but how is the flex? Haven’t really tested the flex much. Doesn’t seem too bad. I’ll have to stick a hi-lo under one of the front tires and check. Gotta do that anyway to figure out where to mount my bumpstops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbarber16 Posted November 10, 2017 Author Share Posted November 10, 2017 UPDATE The updates are gonna get really boring so bear with me. I adjusted the links the other day and ended up removing the passenger upper link all together. Seems to feel a little better going over bumps and through the suspension cycle. So I’ll probably run it a 3-link setup for now. I took the front fenders and header panel off. And found some real crap... i knew the truck was in an accident because the paint is chipped in a few spots and it’s blue underneath. But a lot of the truck has been replaced. The header panel. Fenders. Radiator support. Hood. Possibly doors. And everything that the fenders and header panel mount to has been boogered up. I can see that the frame is crunches in the front drivers side in front of the coil all the way to the bumper. And the wheel well has had some serious massaging with a hammer. I’ll post some pictures. But this really tears me up. Not sure how I was so oblivious. BUT, the build won’t end. I wasn’t planning on this being a show truck. Just a toy to play with while i build a beamed, v8 comanche. Anyways. Got the mechanical fan removed and the electric radiator fan mounted. It’s gonna fit nicely behind the crooked grill so I’m happy about that. Just need to do the wiring for it. Gonna mount my hella 1000’s on the front bumper and run the wires for that as well. Next time i have the truck in the shop. I worked on the tranny cooler for a bit. Mocking it up and such. It will be next to the fuel cell in the bed. And the fuel cell. That’s for another day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbarber16 Posted November 10, 2017 Author Share Posted November 10, 2017 The last picture is after I straightened out the upper fender mounting panel thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goatman Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 I saw in a previous post that you're thinking about cutting through the inner fender well to allow for a longer shock. As you're finding out with the crash damage, this is a unibody and all of the structure is important to the chassis rigidity. The strongest parts of the front section are the sides of the cowl, and the upper shock mount/spring seat area. If you're going to remove some of that area, have a good plan for how you'll add back in some structural strength. I would first consider lowering the shock mount position on the axle before seriously messing with the upper mount area. How much front suspension travel are you going for? What length shocks? Unless you're planning to run coilovers a shock longer than your spring movement is wasted. On our 4643 race XJ we ran 13" front shocks, no upper mount modification, but I designed a dual coil spring setup to be able to use a shock that long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbarber16 Posted November 15, 2017 Author Share Posted November 15, 2017 On 11/11/2017 at 1:01 AM, Goatman said: I saw in a previous post that you're thinking about cutting through the inner fender well to allow for a longer shock. As you're finding out with the crash damage, this is a unibody and all of the structure is important to the chassis rigidity. The strongest parts of the front section are the sides of the cowl, and the upper shock mount/spring seat area. If you're going to remove some of that area, have a good plan for how you'll add back in some structural strength. I would first consider lowering the shock mount position on the axle before seriously messing with the upper mount area. How much front suspension travel are you going for? What length shocks? Unless you're planning to run coilovers a shock longer than your spring movement is wasted. On our 4643 race XJ we ran 13" front shocks, no upper mount modification, but I designed a dual coil spring setup to be able to use a shock that long. Thanks for all that info! I’ll definitely reconsider cutting all that inner fender well out. Id like to run 12” stroke triple bypasses in the front. And now that you mention it I think by lowering the bottom shock mount a little, I’ll be able to achieve the space for the bypass to get almost its whole movement. I’ve still got some measuring to do. Like I said I’d really like to run 12” bypasses but if I need to I’ll go town to a 10”. Ill have to make some cardboard cutouts of extended and compressed shock lengths and see what kind of room I’m going to need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbarber16 Posted November 21, 2017 Author Share Posted November 21, 2017 UPDATE A few things happened. I got my trans cooler plumbed. It’s just laying in the bed for now. I’ll throw some pictures up. Feel free to judge. I also removed the mechanical engine fan and replaced it with a single electric fan mounted in the center of the radiator behind the grill. Not wired yet because i want to test the amp draw and add a relay accordingly so I don’t burn the truck down. I was driving it around just to get a feel for how it’s going to handle and overheated it. Oops. I also picked up some PRP seats yesterday and have those sitting in the truck for now. I have to make brackets for them. Do you guys think I can modify some Cherokee brackets to work? I’d like them to be very sturdy so I might just have to weld some brackets straight to the floor and bolt the seats to them. We’ll see. Plans for the next few weeks are to get the bed removed and start mocking up the fuel cell. And on that note. What is everyone’s experience with in-line fuel pumps. Rumor has it the E2000 pump works well. My only question would be; What changes do you have to make to the fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator to handle the max pressure of 95 psi? And also do you just take two wires from the existing pump plug and use them for the new pump? Any info would be appreciated. Il’l do my research as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbarber16 Posted November 21, 2017 Author Share Posted November 21, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbarber16 Posted November 21, 2017 Author Share Posted November 21, 2017 Well. The site is being dumb. Even though the picture of the trans cooler is less than 1.95mb. And even though I’ve sized it down to 200kb to where it’s blurry as hell. I still can’t upload it. So here’s a picture of the lines where I tapped into the existing trans cooler. Dual coolers FTW! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbarber16 Posted November 21, 2017 Author Share Posted November 21, 2017 Okay. I refreshed the page and it decided it was okay I put the trans cooler picture in. Cool. Like I said. Feel free to judge. I’m always open to new ideas. And yes I know. It can’t lay flat like that. I’ll adjust it so it has airflow. When the bed is off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbarber16 Posted December 6, 2017 Author Share Posted December 6, 2017 Small. Update. Parts have been rolling in for the truck. But haven’t had time to work on it. Have another project on my hands. Wish they made fiberglass like this for the Comanche Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatiricalHen Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 Not sure if you ever got shocks on, but I run 12” travel shocks and can get full travel with them without modifying either mounting point. My track bar bottoms out before my shocks do. I need to relocate my track bar over axle and my steering under pitman arm, but I haven’t gotten to it yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbarber16 Posted December 8, 2017 Author Share Posted December 8, 2017 3 hours ago, SatiricalHen said: Not sure if you ever got shocks on, but I run 12” travel shocks and can get full travel with them without modifying either mounting point. My track bar bottoms out before my shocks do. I need to relocate my track bar over axle and my steering under pitman arm, but I haven’t gotten to it yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Hey thanks for the reply. Probably gonna end up running 12” triple bypass shocks up front. That way I’ll leave a little room to bump and strap. Hopefully gonna order the shocks within the month. I bought a set of 18” triple bypass for the rear. Now I just need to figure out how to get 18” of travel out of the rear without a 4-link setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SatiricalHen Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 the rear of my Cherokee is set up with a decent amount of travel. Currently my 10” travel shocks limit it, but I’m sure 18” is somehow doable with the extra length of Comanche springs. Shackle angles are really important for leaf spring travel. I plan to relocate my rear shocks higher on the axle which is why I went with such short shocks. The rear is a little different from Comanches though.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbarber16 Posted January 22, 2018 Author Share Posted January 22, 2018 Some progress pictures. Got the bed off. Got the fuel cell temporarily mounted. Got 1 cross brace halfway welded. Trans cooler is temporarily mounted. Fuel pump temporarily mounted. And I finished welding up one of the seat brackets this evening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbarber16 Posted February 3, 2018 Author Share Posted February 3, 2018 Progress. Going to start laying tubes soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbarber16 Posted February 3, 2018 Author Share Posted February 3, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbarber16 Posted February 3, 2018 Author Share Posted February 3, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 That tape setup is interesting. It should be a cool bed cage when it starts coming together. Are you planning to cut out the bed and just leave the bedsides, or just cut out holes for the shocks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbarber16 Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 On 2/13/2018 at 12:34 AM, Swampy said: That tape setup is interesting. It should be a cool bed cage when it starts coming together. Are you planning to cut out the bed and just leave the bedsides, or just cut out holes for the shocks? I am planning on ordering hannemann 6” bedsides and just affixing them to the cage and frame. So no bed at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbarber16 Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 Here’s some progress. Started laying tubes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeepzahn Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Coming together nicely! Can't wait to see the rest of that cage dude, nice work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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