No Gauge Cluster Lights

[Keyav8r]

1991 Eliminator - Pulled the dash to change my AC evaporator.  After reinstalling it, I have no gauge cluster lights (driving/fog lights don't work either but that may be a separate issue).  Checked the fuse (#8 in the fuse box, 5 amp), it was good but put another good one in just in case.  The fuse is tight in the box and contacts are clean.  Rotated light switch knob fully in both directions with parking lights on and with headlights on low and high with no result.  Also noticed my ash tray courtesy light doesn't work.

Pulled the gauge cluster back out to check the connector and found it was securely seated as it was when I put the cluster in the dash.  I checked and the connector will only fit one way.

Interior lights, under dash courtesy lights, mirror courtesy lights, headlights, tail lights, brake lights, parking lights, back-up lights, flashers, clock, radio, and cigar lighter all work and the parking brake warning light works.  Didn't notice if the upshift light worked or not.

Put my meter on the fuse connectors and I don't have 12 V to either side with headlight switch in any position.

Is it safe to assume the power for the gauge cluster lights comes from the headlight switch?  I can't see the back side of the headlight switch, even with a mirror, to see if there is a loose connector.

Any ideas what to look for and/or how to fix this?  If it involves pulling the dash again I'll probably do without gauge cluster lights for a while.

However, I do now have AC!

[Keyav8r]

Come on, guys!  Somebody has to have an idea.  

[Dzimm]

I don't know where the power for that comes from on the older electrical but on 97+ there is a fuse in the engine bay for the interior lights and gauge cluster.  (sounds like that may be the case with the fuse you replaced?) 

 

More than likely you bumped a wire loose somewhere when the dash was removed.  Could be ground or could be a power wire.  

 

The only experience I have with this exact issue is on my 97+ truck and that was a blown fuse, so I am not of great help here but I'll try to give you an idea. 

 

I see that you have three options:

1 - Find the wires associated with the gauge cluster lights and use a multimeter or a test light to test the wiring to see where you are or aren't getting power.  Start from either the fuse box or the gauge cluster to find where the issue is. 

2 - Find and read the associated wiring diagrams and see if there are any grounds or connections that could have broken loose.  Use these diagrams to find all possible trouble spots so you can check it for shorts or other issues. 

3 - Take the dash back out and search around for any pinched or broken wires or connections behind the dash. 

[aaronbtxnc]

Just fought this on mine this past weekend.For me it was some oxidation on the fuse and where it plugs in. Used a bit of fine sandpaper to remove that and all is well again.

[Keyav8r]

Dzimm - thanks for the response.  I've checked at the fuse and have no power there so I know I'm not getting power to the cluster.  I plan to drop the lower part of the dash tomorrow to see if I can get a hand in to check connections at the headlight switch.  

If I don't find anything loose at the switch, I'll just drive without instrument lights for a while before I pull the dash again.  It's just a PITA.

Looks like there's an Ignition point near the instrument light fuse.  I may try to jumper power over with an inline fuse to see if I get lights that way.

Long range plan is to dig into the wiring diagram and find the power feed to the fuse and track back from there.  I'm just tired of working on the truck and will do without the lights in order to drive it for a while.

Just hoping someone had the silver bullet.

[Keyav8r]

Instruments lights problem solved.  With the gauge cluster out the headlight switch is accessible and I found one of the connectors not completely seated.  Pressed it into place and magically I have instrument lights!

Still don't have fog/driving lights.  I have power to the accessory lights fuse in the relay box on the left fender well, but nothing at the lights.  Connectors seem to be secure so I think the problem is somewhere in the harness.  I'll have to pull the header panel to investigate further but will do that later.  I can drive the truck without those lights.

Tracing the wiring is a little troublesome as there are sheets that are referenced which are missing from my Jeep electrical manual and my Jeep wiring diagrams book.  Doesn't appear that they were removed as there's no evidence they were ever there.

Primary problem solved, secondary can wait.

[Dzimm]

11 hours ago, Keyav8r said:

Instruments lights problem solved.  With the gauge cluster out the headlight switch is accessible and I found one of the connectors not completely seated.  Pressed it into place and magically I have instrument lights!

Still don't have fog/driving lights.  I have power to the accessory lights fuse in the relay box on the left fender well, but nothing at the lights.  Connectors seem to be secure so I think the problem is somewhere in the harness.  I'll have to pull the header panel to investigate further but will do that later.  I can drive the truck without those lights.

Tracing the wiring is a little troublesome as there are sheets that are referenced which are missing from my Jeep electrical manual and my Jeep wiring diagrams book.  Doesn't appear that they were removed as there's no evidence they were ever there.

Primary problem solved, secondary can wait.

Glad to hear your instrument cluster works.  As for the fog lights, usually the issue with those is broken wires somewhere or corroded connectors due to the location of the plugs and wires. 

[Minuit]

Yeah, the connector for the front lighting harness is notorious for this. That's the first place I would check.

[Keyav8r]

Is that connector under the air filter box?

[HOrnbrod]

It's a rectangular 10-pin connector at the left front bulkhead. Open it up and clean the crud that's sure to be in there. It's a poorly designed leaky connector in a leaky location. 

Below pic stolen from Cruisers Tips. In this case it also applies to HOs.

 

[schardein]

I just wrapped up adding oem tow hooks.  Had the header panel and front bumper off.  Also replaced all my AC components under the hood.  Got everything back together and the driving lights don't work.  Same connector beneath the air filter housing, the wire had corroded and broken off where it was crimped to the terminal.  What a PITA.  I'm thinking of replacing the entire thing with a weatherpack type connector.

[Keyav8r]

Thanks, Don & Schardein.  

Don, your photo came through as a Photobucket message to upgrade my account.  If I PM my e-mail address, can you send it to me.

Sounds like all I'll have to remove is the air filter box, correct?

[HOrnbrod]

Yes, it up front down in the left front corner near the air filter inlet. I'll send you the pic asap. 

[Keyav8r]

Driving lights problem solved!  Pulled the air filter box to check the 10 pin connector for the front lighting harness and found it was good.   Pulled the grill out to get to the driving light connectors and found one disconnected.  It appears I didn’t seat the connector well enough to engage the clip.  Connected it and still no lights.  Then I noticed a single relay on the back side of radiator support, between it and the air filter box.  I switched it out with another relay from my “pocket parts” stash and the lights came on when I flipped the switch.

if I had checked the relay first I would have saved a lot of time and effort.