Jump to content

87 Comanche Transmissin Questions


Recommended Posts

Hello fellow MJ lovers,

 

My name is Ant and I just bought my Comanche! I have wanted this truck since I was 13 and now as a 24 year old I finally have it. It is an 87 Jeep Comanche Cheif. 4.0l Renix 5 speed 4wd Short bed.

I just bought it and I am super excited to start working on it but I am left with some questions.

 

First and foremost, the driveshaft is disconnected as the previous owner started to put in a clutch slave cylinder. I am hoping you guys can help me ot. I have owned 2 cherokees in the past that I have done all my own work on but I have 0 experience with the transmission.

 

First Question:

What should I know before attempting to remove the transmission? I have seen a write-up or two on the process but since it is half way apart, what should i look for before removing anything? I don't want to attempt removing the trans until i know that I fully understand the removal and installation process.

 

Second Question:

While the trans is out, I figure I may as well have the clutch replaced. This is not a task i want to perform myself, having never done it and not having the proper tools. If i pay someone to install a clutch into the already removed transmission, what should I know before attempting to reinstall the transmission?

 

Sorry for the Newbie questions but I really want to get her back on the road and I have limited resources available to me. I am sure I will have more questions down the road, and I thank you for your help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you sure the transmission is good? It should be that Peugeot transmission.

if you have the time and funds upgrading to a ax-15 with external slave cylinder would be a good idea. 

 

far as a normal clutch job the normal tool should be sufficant (standard socket set and wrenches)  The clutch alignment tool should come with you clutch kit. There may be a  a few tricks to this era transmission, not sure when the torx boltsat the top of the bellhousing  came into the picturel

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The hardest part of clutch replacement is removal of the transmission, if you do that the rest is easy. The clutch plate is attached to the flywheel on the engine, the only part on the trans side is the slave cylinder/throw out bearing, it just slips over the input shaft in the bell housing and stays in place with a roll pin and washer. You should also replace the pilot bearing in the center of crank shaft. When I replaced mine I removed the starter and drive shafts, disconnected the CPS, removed the transfer case then removed the trans, some people pull the case and trans as one unit but it was too unwieldy for me. Remember to drain the fluids before you start. Reinstalled in reverse order.

 

If you let the engine tilt down you'll have easier access to the two top bolts, you'll need some long extensions. There are many threads with details on bolt sizes, BA 10/5 used eternal Torx for the top bolts and there are locating pins to help align when reinstalling.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Green Mesa XJ:

I'm not sure the condition of the transmission. I was told it was taken apart because it needed a new slave cylinder which I am inclined to believe because a new one was purchased and is in the front seat. If there is a problem I have a 92 Cherokee tramsmission, that ironically also needs a new slave cylinder. Also internal. I have not criss referenced the two to see if they are the same but its an option. My goal is to get this back on the road sooner rather than later. I will look into what is involved in changing the trans but for now hoping to work with what I got.

 

fiatslug87:

So your saying that the majority of the clutch is attached to the engine. I see now. Do you think clutch replacement is something I could likely do myself? I am worried about screwing something up and ruining a new clutch. It certainly wouldn't be the first time I did work on my jeep that I hadn't done before. Transmissions just make me a bit nervous.

 

The transmission is not yet removed but the driveshaft are. So I'm wondering what else has to come off before dropping the transmission

 

Thanks for the replies

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They were taking the transmission itself apart?

does the new transmission have a seam in the middle? Like left and right side bolt up to make the housing..

 

to drop it you'll need to remove the crossmember holding the transmission up. Big beam in the middle of the jeep. 

Hold transmission up with a floor jack or transmission jack then slowly lower it, disconnect the transfer case if you have one. Get the bolts on the bellhousing, remove starter, and separate from the engine,  lower and remove.

 

i can't think of anything really  difficult besides reaching the top bellhousing bolts,  ratchet   with long extensions is usuly the key.  They may be torx head bolts at the very top of the bellhousing, not sure on the 87. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Green Mesa XJ

 

New transmission? You mean the one of the XJ? I'm not sure if have to look but I'm pretty sure there is not a seam.

 

No they were just taking the trans out, not apart. To change the slave cylinder. But I wasn't sure order of operations for removing the trans but that write up you just gave me gives me a pretty good idea.

 I just have to get back under and take a look to see what they have already done. I just bought it Friday and have not gotten to really dig into what has been done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take a look at this thread one of the pictures has the identification of the Peugeot transmission, which is factory for 1987 mj with 4.0. 

 

I was curious what transmission they had for a replacement, usuly just another Peugeot but some upgrade them while doing this job.

 

its an involved job but nothing to be worried over. I'd be more worried finding all the bolts to the stuff they detached already.

 

Make sure you've got enough clearance to get the transmission out, other than that it's follow the the steps. It's a good jeep to keep on the road too.  Kind of project I love, but I'd rather pull the motor than transmission but that may be just me. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should look at getting a transmission jack. It makes taking down and reinstalling the trans/tcase easier.

 

Harbor freight has one: https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-39178.html

 

Tool rental shops will rent them.  My experience was the cost of rental for 2-3 days was the price of the HF jack.  I've used mine enough times that it has more than paid for itself.

 

(...or find a friend that has one.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Green Mesa XJ

 

New transmission? You mean the one of the XJ? I'm not sure if have to look but I'm pretty sure there is not a seam.

 

No they were just taking the trans out, not apart. To change the slave cylinder. But I wasn't sure order of operations for removing the trans but that write up you just gave me gives me a pretty good idea.

 I just have to get back under and take a look to see what they have already done. I just bought it Friday and have not gotten to really dig into what has been done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Follow up question.

After doing a bit of research I believe my Cherokee parts truck has an AX-15 with 225xxx on it. It too need a needs a slave cylinder. Should I swap it out if I have the Peugeot in the Comanche? Both have 225xxx miles on it and I already have the slave cylinder for the Puegeot.

 

87MJTMI:

Thanks for the suggestion. I have an idea to modify my existing jack to accomadate a transmission. I have a low profile that the jack plate is removable and a bunch of scrap steal and a welder. I plan to weld something up to grab onto the trans.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The ax15 is a good idea but depending on the year the input shaft for the transmission is a diffrent diameter. Usuly become a PITA to locate the correct bearing for the crank journal. I think the correct on for those who have done the swap it's off of a wrangler. if you get the ax-15 from a 90 XJ ,MJ the input shaft will fit easier will be easier to source parts for. 

Novak has a good break down on the differences, they say 88-91 ax15 have the 19/32 pilot tip and 92-99 have the 3/4. I've heard it was 1990 for sure on ax15 in XJ & MJ, with maybe 1989 being a split year.  

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/manual/ax15

 

Its not a bad idea to swap it out but you might be ok with a new clutch and hydraulics. I'm a little concerned why they sold a spare transmission with it.  

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The transmission crossmember is also different between AX-15 and BA10/5. The AX-15 one has a depression in it, although some have said the BA10/5 one will work. When I swapped mine I found the correct crossmember so I can't confirm. Also if you swap in the AX-15 make sure it still has the mounting plate attached to it otherwise you'll have to source one (EDIT: I see you have a complete one, disregard). And you'll have to rewire the reverse switch, the connectors are different between the two, I made a connector that went from the harness connector to the AX-15 switch connector so I did not have to cut anything.

 

As far as replacing the clutch, you can do it. Just torque the bolts to the correct value (I do it in steps) in a star pattern with the alignment tool in place (as mentioned earlier).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So the consensus is to do the swap?

 

I'm a little caught between having the parts already for the Peugeot and wanting to get it on the road, and not wanting to do all of this again in 6mo to a year. Both transmissions have 225xxx miles so its almost a toss up. Putting the Peugeot back together will certainly get me on the road sooner.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

41 minutes ago, fiatslug87 said:

If you're not going to push the BA10/5 too hard and want it on the road soon just put the  BA10/5 back in. Keep the AX-15, get all the info for the slave and pilot bushing and wait for it to start having problems (if it ever does) then replace.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it were me I'd probably just fix the clutch and get it going. I'd pull the ax15 and line the parts up if the BA10 dies. It'd be good to upgrade but on the other hand it's a headache in a vehicle you don't know the quirks of. 

 

If if you knew the transmission were bad I'd go with the ax15.

 

weird I thought you said there was a transmission in the passengers seat when bought it.  Don't know where I got the idea they sold it with a spare transmission . 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...