Roost426 Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 Hey all, brakes felt funny other night. Popped master lid, front reservoir was empty, Filled it up and pedal still feels great. Everything at the back wheels is dry. There is fluid oozing out down the front of the booster and its all corroded/rusty. Has just my seal failed and I will be ok with just a new master or also a new power booster? The master run only 20$ or so but the booster is a bit pricier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omega_rugal Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 Take the chance and upgrade to a double diaphagram ZJ booster from a junkyard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 Take the chance and upgrade to a double diaphagram ZJ booster from a junkyard It's 99 to 2004 WJ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Mesa XJ Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 Or a 1996 XJ booster and master (1996 XJ only, 1997 -2001 is different) . WJ is easier to source both parts. Far as the booster you have now you'd better replace it after having brake fluid leak on it. Never had a booster last for long after that. Which is way so many recommend upgrading the booster and master to one that is dual diaphragm like the later year jeeps have. It's a good upgrade, probably the most difficult part for a novice will be making the brake line to mate the the original portioning valve and new master cylinder. Easiest fix is new master booster combo that fits your year. But it's 20 year old parts so your brake lines going to the master may break before they bust lose. If they do You'll have to repair those lines anyway so might as well upgrade the booster. Just depends what you're comfortable with. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 Or a 1996 XJ booster and master (1996 XJ only, 1997 -2001 is different) . WJ is easier to source both parts. Far as the booster you have now you'd better replace it after having brake fluid leak on it. Never had a booster last for long after that. Which is way so many recommend upgrading the booster and master to one that is dual diaphragm like the later year jeeps have. It's a good upgrade, probably the most difficult part for a novice will be making the brake line to mate the the original portioning valve and new master cylinder. Easiest fix is new master booster combo that fits your year. But it's 20 year old parts so your brake lines going to the master may break before they bust lose. If they do You'll have to repair those lines anyway so might as well upgrade the booster. Just depends what you're comfortable with. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro 95 XJ also. I agree, replace it with the dual diaphragm booster of your choice. Don't just get a stock replacement, now is a good chance to upgrade. The 99-04 WJ booster requires the firewall lip to be bent out of the way (for me a deal breaker) but is easier in other ways. For a 1987 truck, both the 95-96 XJ and 99-04 WJ boosters will need the pushrod modified. There are a number of excellent writeups on swapping both the XJ and WJ boosters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Mesa XJ Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 Or a 1996 XJ booster and master (1996 XJ only, 1997 -2001 is different) . WJ is easier to source both parts. Far as the booster you have now you'd better replace it after having brake fluid leak on it. Never had a booster last for long after that. Which is way so many recommend upgrading the booster and master to one that is dual diaphragm like the later year jeeps have. It's a good upgrade, probably the most difficult part for a novice will be making the brake line to mate the the original portioning valve and new master cylinder. Easiest fix is new master booster combo that fits your year. But it's 20 year old parts so your brake lines going to the master may break before they bust lose. If they do You'll have to repair those lines anyway so might as well upgrade the booster. Just depends what you're comfortable with. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro 95 XJ also. I agree, replace it with the dual diaphragm booster of your choice. Don't just get a stock replacement, now is a good chance to upgrade. The 99-04 WJ booster requires the firewall lip to be bent out of the way (for me a deal breaker) but is easier in other ways. For a 1987 truck, both the 95-96 XJ and 99-04 WJ boosters will need the pushrod modified. There are a number of excellent writeups on swapping both the XJ and WJ boosters. you're right it's 95-95 on the booster master combo. I forget since so much of the 96 is 96 only. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 I am using the 97 ZJ MC since it does not have a sensor in the reservoir and I'm anal bout such things. I'm using a 04 WJ booster with spacer and have no clearance problems.........again, I'm anal bout that $#!&. After I get the Wilwoods settled in........I'm swapping the WJ booster again, this time with an adjustable stem so I can set my brake pedal where I want it and I'm also going to the Ford brake light switch and ditching the PIA POS stock config. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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