Eagle Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 I think I destroyed the transfer case in the 2000 XJ. Recently I've started hitting the highway twice a week to go to construction sites at the far end of the state. Started hearing some unusual noises, but couldn't pin them down. I finally decided that the source might be the transfer case (Selec-Trac, NP 242). I got underneath today, and put in just over a quart of Dexron/Mercon. That's not good -- the capacity is 1.35 liters. The whole back of the transfer case seemed very dirty. While filling it, I noticed something odd -- a boss with what appears to be a tapped home, and nothing in it. See photo: The hole I'm referring to is just below the ID tag, and just to the right of and slightly above the fill plug. Looking at an older 242 t-case on a motor in the yard, there's a sensor in that location. Mine has no sensor. I believe the sensor is a 4WD indicator switch, but my dash indicator lights are working normally. I can't see how a switch like that could have backed out and fallen off the vehicle, so I'm left with the unhappy thought that the factory left something out, and we've been gradually spraying ATF out that hole since the vehicle was new in November of 1999. Unhappily, refilling the t-case didn't make the noises go away, so I think I'm probably looking at a transfer case replacement/rebuild. Grrrrrr The other thing I find interesting (and not in a good way) is that I have the 2000 XJ FSM. The illustrations of the 242 transfer case do NOT show that boss, or any hole in that vicinity other than for the speedometer drive gear.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 The 99 parts manual does indeed call for a switch there: SWITCH, Transfer Case Mode, p/n 56006755. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankTheDog Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 Eagle, I have a 1994 242 and probably a driveshaft for it if you're interested. I don't have any use for it so you can have it. I also have a 98 231 that you can have. I imagine the driveshafts are the same. If not you can have the one from the donor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 11, 2016 Author Share Posted November 11, 2016 The 99 parts manual does indeed call for a switch there: SWITCH, Transfer Case Mode, p/n 56006755. Yeah, that's the spot. But my transfer case has never been serviced, and I didn't see any wires or connector hanging down there. My friend, the former Jeep shop tech, told me that he remembers some XJs coming in with what appeared to be a transfer case leak. He said the t-case on some models was supposed to have a rubber plug, and the factory sometimes forgot to install it. I'm wondering if that's what happened here. The FSM wiring diagram shows a transfer case mode switch, but it doesn't tell me if the switch is located on/in the transfer case, or on the linkage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 They were all on the transfer case. Originally they were mounted on the rear (where you show above), but later years moved them to the front of the case. Near the range lever. Think this change occurred around 95 or so. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 They were all on the transfer case. Originally they were mounted on the rear (where you show above), but later years moved them to the front of the case. Near the range lever. Think this change occurred around 95 or so. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk The pic above is supposed to be a 99 model. :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 A 99 model would have had the hex socket plugs for drain and fill (as can be seen in Eagle's original post picture). The one in the picture above uses the larger hex plug (1 3/16" but it is actually metric hex - thread is M22) that was used in the earlier cases. This again, was a change made around 95-96 and both changes likely coincide with the change from internal to external slip yokes. The location of the switch changed, the switch itself did not. As for th rubber plug, that again was up forward, by the range lever, and was used on all model years to plug the access hole to the range mode roll pin which is generally removed during disassembly (although with patience this step can be skipped). Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 A 99 model would have had the hex socket plugs for drain and fill (as can be seen in Eagle's original post picture). The one in the picture above uses the larger hex plug (1 3/16" but it is actually metric hex - thread is M22) that was used in the earlier cases. This again, was a change made around 95-96 and both changes likely coincide with the change from internal to external slip yokes. The location of the switch changed, the switch itself did not. As for th rubber plug, that again was up forward, by the range lever, and was used on all model years to plug the access hole to the range mode roll pin which is generally removed during disassembly (although with patience this step can be skipped). Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 11, 2016 Author Share Posted November 11, 2016 Found a photo on another site showing a plug in that location. Rockfrog, do you have any idea what the thread is for the switch, so I can track down a plug for that opening? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted November 13, 2016 Share Posted November 13, 2016 Not sure but I have a few so I'll see what I can do to check. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 13, 2016 Share Posted November 13, 2016 My friend, the former Jeep shop tech, told me that he remembers some XJs coming in with what appeared to be a transfer case leak. He said the t-case on some models was supposed to have a rubber plug, and the factory sometimes forgot to install it. I'm wondering if that's what happened here. The FSM wiring diagram shows a transfer case mode switch, but it doesn't tell me if the switch is located on/in the transfer case, or on the linkage. THIS is the rubber plug you need. P/n 15105, $2.58 at the dealership. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 14, 2016 Author Share Posted November 14, 2016 After using half a can of carb cleaner around that boss, I verified that the hole is not drilled all the way through, and it's not tapped. It seems the ATF is weeping out around the speedo gear quill. I'll have to see if the O-ring for that is available as a replacement part. Looking to make it through the winter with the transfer case -- weather is getting bad enough that I can't count on decent weather for a swap, and I don't have a garage to work in. I'm thinking of adding a moly compound to help it limp along. http://afkml.utehm.servertrust.com/category-s/122.htm The prody=ucts for automatic transmissions use a soluble form of molybdenum that doesn't plate the parts. The ones that are MoS2 offer plating. The NP242 uses an internal differential, correct, not a viscous drive -- so I should be okay using the MoS2 formulation even though the lube is ATF? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 No clutch packs or VC in the 242, so yeah, you can put an additive in it. Personally I'd probably resort to synthetic 0W30, or Amsoil 5W30 Synchromesh (which allegedly if thinner than Dex or +4 below 0*F), but I would do more research first. I know lots of guys with diesel trucks do something along these lines as it seems to help. Also, while I have limited use for AA's technical advice, they always say to put RTV or Formagasket on the speedo drive o-ring... Given the case it already screwed, I'd goop it up with either without a second thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 The oring is available from the dealership. But it is also a standard size oring. If the oring is damaged or missing it'll piss out the VSS hole everytime the vehicle is in motion. I have never had to use RTV for this. Just a fresh oring. Easy fix. Keep the oil topped, it may survive if not too damaged. Quick fix is to find a used case and swap parts. The 242 changed little until they tossed the gear driven VSS for a hall effect VSS (but internally still similar enough to use parts). Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted November 14, 2016 Author Share Posted November 14, 2016 The size may be standard, but there are so many different rubber compounds, with different resistances to petroleum-based products, that I'm happier going to the source. I have two on order from the stealership. I'm also shopping around for an affordable replacement. No u-pulls in Connecticut, so I have to buy at yard prices, which range from $300 to $75. Not sure where the sweet spot is -- the yard I usually deal with doesn't seem to have any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted November 15, 2016 Share Posted November 15, 2016 The dealership orings are still a standard Buna oring. I've been using standard orings for my tcase, and my OFA for years now. I pay $11 for the dealership oring and have to wait for two weeks while they have it shipped from Washington. I can go to my local NAPA and get the same oring for 85c. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now