Height sensing valve delete final questions

[SBpunk]

So I'm paranoid specially when it comes to brakes. Just want to get the finally clarification.

Remove and plug this port (bottom forward port)

 

Then remove this line coming from the distribution block to the back of the height sensing valve

 

 

(this is the fuzzy part) Then re bend the line you just removed from the valve to fit into the soft line/flex hose? Making the three way T lines just extra metal to be removed later. Or am I backwards?

[SBpunk]

Bolt size is 1/2 x 20 to plug the distribution block / proportion valve whichever you like to call it.

Shorten the bolt, rubber o ring and rtv the tip of the bolt to seal the hole inside. Let it cure for a day or so. Fill with dot 4, bleed and enjoy.

[1989 comanche mj]

I tried this and it didn't work correctly for me, I have a 8.8 rear with disc brakes.  I went with a 4 wheel disc prop valve and ran a new line to the back and it works now.  Got rid of all the factory rear lines.  Those rear lines are usually pretty scary, I didn't trust mine.

[SBpunk]

I have drums in the back still. They're not to bad for me since I've them them a million times. I'll swap to disks on the 8.25 eventually but there's less than 1k miles on them now.

[88whitemanche]

Yes you plug that bottom port and I don't remember exactly which brake line I had to rebend but I followed the line which was the longest and used that one...

After doing load sensing valve delete and wj double booster upgrade...

My brakes are amazing!

[SBpunk]

Yeah buddy that's what I'm hoping for. Even with my 96 XJ brake booster my brakes have been meeh. I'm hoping I got this right. Then I'm going to use the motive products power bleeder to get everything perfect.

[SBpunk]

Got it in. Just need to tighten it up tomorrow. Pulled the brake line (what I could some was stuck behind the gas tank) and going to bend the remaining line into the soft brake line. Pretty stoked about this. Only thing that can go wrong now is if that end going into the height valve doesn't fit the soft line.

 

[HOrnbrod]

You know I don't think there's been a good writeup with pics and p/n's on removing the load sensing valve procedure. Try to document everything and then we can put it into the DIY forum to help others.

[SBpunk]

Will do! Should have it finished by tomorrow. Have everything written down so far. Bolt sizes and what not

[DTA]

The end going into the valve is a 7/16 fitting and the soft line is a 3/8 fitting. Will need to be adapted or a new hard line from the nose to the soft line must be made

Got it in. Just need to tighten it up tomorrow. Pulled the brake line (what I could some was stuck behind the gas tank) and going to bend the remaining line into the soft brake line. Pretty stoked about this. Only thing that can go wrong now is if that end going into the height valve doesn't fit the soft line.

[SBpunk]

There's enough line down there to cut, reflair and put a new end in too. Just got to figure out what type of flair. Project for today after work.

[88whitemanche]

 

The end going into the valve is a 7/16 fitting and the soft line is a 3/8 fitting. Will need to be adapted or a new hard line from the nose to the soft line must be made

 

Got it in. Just need to tighten it up tomorrow. Pulled the brake line (what I could some was stuck behind the gas tank) and going to bend the remaining line into the soft brake line. Pretty stoked about this. Only thing that can go wrong now is if that end going into the height valve doesn't fit the soft line.

 

I forgot about this part...the hard line I knew I was going to use I cut the end to the the fitting off and the other end that went to the soft line and swapped that over to make it work...

[SBpunk]

That's what I planned on doing hahaha it's a double flare. I had read somewhere that it was the same size fitting but bad info I suppose.

[xjustinx]

What I did instead of capping the distro block I got one from a ZJ and installed it. All the lines lined up perfectly and I just ditched the extra line left over.

[Eagle]

What I did instead of capping the distro block I got one from a ZJ and installed it. All the lines lined up perfectly and I just ditched the extra line left over.

 

Ummm ... no, the lines do not line up perfectly, because the one that lines up with the rear outlet on the ZJ proportioning valve is the emergency bypass line on the MJ. The MJ line that actually supplies the rear brakes under normal operation is the line coming out of the "nose."

 

Of course, if you toss both the old MJ lines and make up a new one from front to back, that doesn't matter.

[xjustinx]

 

What I did instead of capping the distro block I got one from a ZJ and installed it. All the lines lined up perfectly and I just ditched the extra line left over.

 

Ummm ... no, the lines do not line up perfectly, because the one that lines up with the rear outlet on the ZJ proportioning valve is the emergency bypass line on the MJ. The MJ line that actually supplies the rear brakes under normal operation is the line coming out of the "nose."

 

Of course, if you toss both the old MJ lines and make up a new one from front to back, that doesn't matter.

 

Correct but I just ditched the original line since I only needed one line to the rear, and used the emergency line for  my rear brake line. Cause the end game is getting rid of the height sensing valve. So it doesnt matter what brake line you use to get it back to the calipers.