1989 Eliminator Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 Okay ya'll I have decided to create a step-by-step topic on how to replace your harmonic balancer. But first, here is a little background of what the hatmonic balancer does and where it is located. The harmonic balancer is located on the front-bottom of the engine. The purpose of the harmonic balancer is to drive the belt which then turns everything else that uses thr belts rotation. The harmonic balancer is keyed and pressed onto the end of the crankshaft which sticks out about 2 inches from the front of the engine. Here is what a new harmonic balancer looks like: Here is what my old balancer with a bad seal/bushing looks like (you can see the bad rubber): Here are the tools and parts I used: Rented, harmonic balancer puller and installer tool kits. 14 mm 3/8 drive 13mm 3/8 drive 3/8 small and medium extension 3/8 swivel 8mm 1/4 drive 13mm 1/4 drive Screw driver 3/4 drive 3/4" drive Vice grips 1 1/2" adjustable 1" adjustable 13mm wrench To start off, I had to take off the accessory electric fan and loosen the belt. The fan has two small bolts up top and a electric connector by the airbox. Once the belt is off, I then stuck the screwdriver in between the spokes of the old balancer pulley and the engine so when I used my breaker bar and socket to break loose the 3/4" crankshaft bolt, the pulley did not turn. The bolt and retaining washer needs to be removed and kept for later use. Now it is time to pull the harmonic balancer off the crankshaft end. The pictures below show how the tool is put on the balancer even though I have already pulled it off. The gold spinner nut goes into the tapped hole of the crankshaft end, then the big screw goes into that, the three legged peice screws onto the big screw, and finally the three smaller screws, screw into the tapped holes that are on the harmonic balancer. Make sure you grab enough thread with those bolts. Now you simply have to turn the big screw clockwise to pull off the old harmonic balancer. Next is to press the new harmonic balancer on the end of the crankshaft. The installer kit has a three peice screw system. The silver screw gets screwed into the tapped hole of the crankshaft (mine was 1/2"). Next the bigger hollow screw fits over the silver one. Then there is a long skinny screw that goes inside the big hollow screw and screws into the silver one. Tighten the long screw into the silver one. Line up the new balancer as best as you can on the end of the crankshaft, remember it is keyed. Place the washer/bearing and press nut that comes with install kit. Simply turn the press nut until the balancer is fully pressed onto the crankshaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 Nice writeup. I'd just like to add a note: I like to use genuine Mopar parts whenever possible, and the Mopar harmonic balancer p/n is 33002920 if you can find one. But in 1997 or so the part number was changed to 33002920AB or 33002920AC. If you use one of these later part numbers, the "snout" will be too long and it will not bolt down far enough on the crank to keep correct pulley alignment. The "cure" for this is to either pull the timing cover and remove the oil slinger behind the cover to allow the balancer to seat further down the crankshaft (Chrysler's install instructions), or simply get .020" machined off the balancer snout. I did the latter and it worked fine. This only pertains to Mopar harmonic balancers, not aftermarket units like Dorman or Pioneer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 Eliminator Posted May 19, 2016 Author Share Posted May 19, 2016 Nice writeup. I'd just like to add a note: I like to use genuine Mopar parts whenever possible, and the Mopar harmonic balancer p/n is 33002920 if you can find one. But in 1997 or so the part number was changed to 33002920AB or 33002920AC. If you use one of these later part numbers, the "snout" will be too long and it will not bolt down far enough on the crank to keep correct pulley alignment. The "cure" for this is to either pull the timing cover and remove the oil slinger behind the cover to allow the balancer to seat further down the crankshaft (Chrysler's install instructions), or simply get .020" machined off the balancer snout. I did the latter and it worked fine. This only pertains to Mopar harmonic balancers, not aftermarket units like Dorman or Pioneer. I actually kind of had this same issue with my Dorman balancer. I put it on as far as it could go and the sub was not quite flush with the crankshaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 No idea on the Dorman part. I've heard plenty of people who used them with no problems. Or perhaps didn't even realize there was a problem. :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Pioneer Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 I put the Dorman part on my 88 4.0L and didn't have any issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 :agree: The only problem I've had with the Dorman part is the fact that it's a Dorman part and I'm surprised it even fit. Did it about 2 years ago and have had it off multiple times since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 The only Dorman part I ever used consciously was their wiper linkage bushing kit. The plastic bushings self destructed in a little over a year. Found NOS nylon bushings and they are still hanging in after 7+ years. Dorman is the bottom feeder of cheap offshore junk parts suitable for emergency use only until you can replace it. Just my opinion. :ack: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91Pioneer Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 Not to get too off topic but it is nice that Dorman makes many parts that would otherwise not be available for trucks like ours, but yeah in general they're like Walmart quality. They're cheap and won't last as long as OEM parts. I forgot to add that after installing the Dorman harmonic balancer that I sold the truck within a year but it didn't give me any problems during installation or the time I had it after that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 comanche mj Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Set the balancer nose down on a hot plate high temp wheel bearing grease on the seal. Have the balancer bolt ready, the balancer will go right on if you are quick with no risk of stripping out the main bolt thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pizzaman09 Posted April 12, 2023 Share Posted April 12, 2023 Is the main bolt left hand thread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howeitsdone Posted April 12, 2023 Share Posted April 12, 2023 10 minutes ago, pizzaman09 said: Is the main bolt left hand thread? Nope Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pizzaman09 Posted April 12, 2023 Share Posted April 12, 2023 1 hour ago, howeitsdone said: Nope Oh, the is surprising to me. I'll loosen it CCW then as it is a standard right hand thread bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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