SBpunk Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 So I've replaced the rear main seal 3 times, oil filter o rings and valve cover gasket. The oil is dripping from between the transmission dust plate right behind the oil pan. If it was a slower leak it wouldn't be a big deal but after about an hour it leaves a circle the size of the cardboard piece on duct tape. Both the oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket are Fel Pro blue rubber. The rear main seal has been fel pro 2 piece with the little cut out facing the right way. Pre oiled and RTV'd. The old gasket on everything was scraped off carefully and everything is torqued to spec in the cross pattern order. Anyone have any other ideas what could be leaking? I'm going to try using dye again but last time it just showed everything was dry except the spot I could see already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Are you sure it's engine oil? Could it be leaking from the front (timing cover) and running back? Could it be oil from your transmission ? Internal slave ? Losing any fluid from the clutch master cylinder ? If it's from the transmission, you'll need to drop the tranny to replace the front seal (or if it's from the slave inside the bell housing. you'd still need to drop the tranny) Open up the inspection plate on the front of the tranny and feel inside to see if it's wet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted April 22, 2016 Author Share Posted April 22, 2016 Are you sure it's engine oil? Could it be leaking from the front (timing cover) and running back? Could it be oil from your transmission ? Internal slave ? Losing any fluid from the clutch master cylinder ? If it's from the transmission, you'll need to drop the tranny to replace the front seal (or if it's from the slave inside the bell housing. you'd still need to drop the tranny) Open up the inspection plate on the front of the tranny and feel inside to see if it's wet. I'll give it a shot. Just put fresh fluids into the transmission. Not sure about the timing cover haven't messed with it since I didn't want to pull the front clip and radiator off. Have a habit of replacing parts I didn't plan on replacing just because something was easy to get to while I was doing something else. I'll pull that plate off and see what I can find out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Distributor gasket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Oil pressure sending unit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted April 22, 2016 Author Share Posted April 22, 2016 Oh man I didn't even think of those.... dammit I had the perfect chance to swap them out when I put new plugs, wires and cap on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted April 22, 2016 Author Share Posted April 22, 2016 Dropped some dye in it and used a UV light definitely coming from motor oil and looks like the stupid rear main seal again. No oil coming from the distributor, oil filter adapter or around the oil pan. Its got splatter on the front of the trans inspection plate and dripping down on the bottom bolt. Oil pan bolt is clean same with behind the block where the valve cover would leak down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 Is the pan bent at the rear where is fits around the bearing cap? I cannot believe you have purchased 3 bad RMS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 Did you remember to put the half circle shaped piece back on the rear of the oil pan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekaz1 Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 I forget who it was...maybe eagle? Did 4 or 5 RMS before successfully stopping a leak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted April 23, 2016 Author Share Posted April 23, 2016 Is the pan bent at the rear where is fits around the bearing cap? I cannot believe you have purchased 3 bad RMS. I picked up a brand new oil pan so hopefully not. Someone said it might be parts are so worn down there it can't get a seal. It only has 160k miles and the previous owner (only other owner) just used it for a farm truck. Did you remember to put the half circle shaped piece back on the rear of the oil pan? Yep sure did. Goes in between right? Kidding but yup its there. Made that mistake awhile back thinking it wasnt needed. I forget who it was...maybe eagle? Did 4 or 5 RMS before successfully stopping a leak It's almost to the point where I'm ready to pay someone to check it out. One of the guys in the local club here thinks he can help for a decent price. Most people here think you have to drop the trans to change it so the mechanics don't really inspire confidence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 Which pan did you get? There have been a couple posts up recently that put the quality of parts-store-brand pans into question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 Are you using the Fel-Pro double lip RMS? It's intended to seal better on worn crank surfaces. Are you making absolutely sure the seal is facing the right way? Are you making sure not to tear the top half of the RMS when you insert it in the block (the "shoehorn" that comes with the RMS helps with this) I installed a double lip RMS in my 160k truck last year and haven't had any issues since... except with the Dorman oil pan that I bought. That got switched out for a factory piece from a 1995 engine and thrown in the scrap pile where it belongs. I also used a very, very, VERY small amount of Mopar anaerobic sealer on the chamfered outer edge of the main bearing cap. Of course, make sure it's not anything else leaking and dripping in that area before you do it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Which pan did you get? There have been a couple posts up recently that put the quality of parts-store-brand pans into question. Oil pan was from Rock Auto can't remember been awhile. Are you using the Fel-Pro double lip RMS? It's intended to seal better on worn crank surfaces. Are you making absolutely sure the seal is facing the right way? Are you making sure not to tear the top half of the RMS when you insert it in the block (the "shoehorn" that comes with the RMS helps with this) I installed a double lip RMS in my 160k truck last year and haven't had any issues since... except with the Dorman oil pan that I bought. That got switched out for a factory piece from a 1995 engine and thrown in the scrap pile where it belongs. I also used a very, very, VERY small amount of Mopar anaerobic sealer on the chamfered outer edge of the main bearing cap. Of course, make sure it's not anything else leaking and dripping in that area before you do it again. Yes on the FelPro, Lip facing the front of the engine. Used the horn and dawn dish soap to get the top seal in. Used some UV dye to make sure nothing else was leaking. Its just that spot behind the pan on/in the inspection plate. I'll look into the sealer. Someone offered to check it out for 350ish but I figure for that price I'd try one more time. Just bought a house so every penny counts right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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