thedude4895 Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 SO i'm going to be putting a 1996 HO motor, intake, TB into my 5 speed 1990 Comanche but i'm keeping the renix controls. It seems pretty straight forward but I'm curious what options I have as far as the fuel rail is concerned. I know there is a difference between the 96 and 90 fuel rails so I found a 91-95 style which can mount to the 96 intake and has similar inputs and fpr as the 90 rail.I've read that I need to extend the fuel lines from the body to the new input location, so what all do I need to do that? could anybody provide examples of how they did it?Alternatively.. Is it possible to keep the renix rail and mate it to the 96 intake? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockfrog Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Renix rail won't mount up, easier to use the later rail. all you need to do is move the return line fitting, on a Renix it's at the back of the rail ... on an HO it's at the front next to the inlet. if available grab the HO fuel lines back to the crimps at the firewall. If not GM fuel fittings work as well, 5/16" and 3/8" ... and run rubber hose back to the Renix Hardlines ... ran like this for a couple years ... then snagged a set of HO fuel lines when I poicked up a parts 93 XJ, so I used those for a slightly cleaner look. my 88 4.0 uses a 94 fuel rail, 92 throttle body, 00 intake VC and PS setup, 92 exhaust manifold, and Renix ECM (although I did convert to a GM 86-94 2.8L TPS - same as Renix but cheaper and different wire pinout). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 I just used fuel injection line (3/8" ID) and fuel line hose (5/16" ID), hose clamps, and brass barbed couplers (3/8" and 5/16" respectfully). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedude4895 Posted March 28, 2016 Author Share Posted March 28, 2016 I just used fuel injection line (3/8" ID) and fuel line hose (5/16" ID), hose clamps, and brass barbed couplers (3/8" and 5/16" respectfully). In an effort to not be a dunce, could you post a link or part number to the couplers you used? I'm not trying to order the wrong stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 Here's all you need: Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. Revised 03/28/13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 I just used fuel injection line (3/8" ID) and fuel line hose (5/16" ID), hose clamps, and brass barbed couplers (3/8" and 5/16" respectfully). In an effort to not be a dunce, could you post a link or part number to the couplers you used? I'm not trying to order the wrong stuff I replied to your PM, but if you'd like, I can post a picture of some of my recent work illustrating what I mean, if you think that would help. No need to buy fancy fittings. I haven't had any leak nor cause any other issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbczr2 Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 I have a similar question I'm putting a 95 4.0 in my 87 it had 4cyl can I use the fuel pump or what's my options Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbczr2 Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 I have a similar question I'm putting a 95 4.0 in my 87 it had 4cyl can I use the fuel pump or what's my options Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 You need more fuel pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapitalCityPioneer Posted November 28, 2019 Share Posted November 28, 2019 On 3/30/2016 at 11:54 PM, cruiser54 said: You need more fuel pressure. What kind of fuel sending unit would you put in the Manche tank to send fuel to the fuel rail? Sorry for this late reply to the thread!B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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