big66440 Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 I replaced all my sway bar bushings today and the threads inside of the subframe rails were damaged by I'm guessing the previous owner, I don't own a welder and don't know how to weld, my question is if I were to drill a hole on the outside of the subframe to install a nut on the inside for all 4 of the sway bar bracket nuts will I some how compromise the strength of the subframe in that area? I'm guessing 1 3/4" holes will be enough to get the nut and a wrench in there ? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
500 MJ Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 Are you able to drill the old hole larger and tap it for a larger bolt? That would be my first choice to repair it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 Are you able to drill the old hole larger and tap it for a larger bolt? That would be my first choice to repair it. Or Helicoil it ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big66440 Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 I might try the helicoil route, do you guys know what size the bolts are? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 After another try at thinking this through, I'm not sure how well a Helicoil would work in something as thin as the frame rails, where there's not nearly enough material for the coil to bottom out. How about thread-serts? https://www.nutty.com/Steel-Klik-Thread-Serts_c_270.html http://www.avdelusallc.com/products/nutsert.shtml You don't need a setting tool for one or two inserts. I used them to install thread-serts when I added a transfer case skid to my '88 XJ. You just put a nut onto a long bolt, thread the bolt into the thread-sert and put it in the hole, then use one wrench to prevent the bolt from turning while you tighten the nut down (up) against the frame. It's basically a threaded version of a pop rivet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big66440 Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share Posted March 22, 2016 Thanks for the tip Eagle, the nuts themselves are still there but the threads are stripped. I'll try the helicoil method first then I'll try the thread sert as a back up option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Why don't you just drill and tap the existing welded nuts to the next larger SAE size if the nuts are still secure? That would be stronger than a helicoil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Why don't you just drill and tap the existing welded nuts to the next larger SAE size if the nuts are still secure? That would be stronger than a helicoil....and cheaper, and easier :) Take your broken bolt to the hardware store and find a bolt that is just a little bit bigger than the broken bolt. I would look at SAE and Metric to find a suitable replacement. Take your new bolt to the drill bits and taps aisle. Find a tap for your replacement bolt and pick up the needed drill bit (bit size is specified on the tap/packaging). Sometimes the tap and drill bit can be bought as a package deal! Back at the truck, slowly drill out the stripped weld nuts. Don't forget to use a little oil on the drill bit to dissipate heat. Then thread the drilled out nut with the tap. Go very slowly, keep it oiled and continually remove the tap to clear out metal build up until all the way through the nut. Thread in the new bolt. Presto, your truck is done. The nuts welded to the inside of our truck frames are generally only held in place with two tack welds, so don't put too much force on them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 ^^ Like Brett detailed - good writeup. I suggested using SAE bolts because the existing bolts are metric, and the next larger SAE would be smaller than the next larger metric bolt and save some nut material. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 I'd also recommend using a fine thread bolt. Since tapping by hand won't have the precision of a machined thread, I like using fine threads since you get more contact and don't need to tighten it up as tight as a course thread fastener. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big66440 Posted March 22, 2016 Author Share Posted March 22, 2016 Thanks :thumbsup: those are some really good tips guys, hopefully I can get some time to actually work on it since work and family has been super hectic, I have a large set of drill bits and taps at my disposal so I'll try drilling and tapping first and hopefully I'll report back with a successful outcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 so little metal...I would not drill for next SAE size, should be close enough to just run tap in for NEXT oversize. Matter of fact, when I did my back bumper on the 88, I'm pretty sure I just ran the next size SAE coarse thread in, no tap. No problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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