dustyinthedirt Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 So the comanche decided to take a little time off during the snow. i had it in four wheel low backing out of my drive way got all the way to the road and the front wheels quit spinning leaving us in the middle of a road. The front drive shaft is spinning but the wheels are not turning. I did not hear a pop. I still have automatic hubs. (hoping its not a vacuum line, if its like my old Chevy) could there be a solenoid froze? we do have 14'' of snow on the ground. any help is much appreciated. i will be checking this mutliple times today since i can't really go anywhere :doh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buckwheat Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 Central Axle Disconnect = CAD. Explains your symptoms. Check out this link for a permanent fix. http://comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/ I decided to go with a Jeep Posi-Lock system (google it) for versatility. The permanent fix is cheaper and requires nothing extra. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustyinthedirt Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 here's a little Comanche porn for you for helping me out! i knew i seen a post somewhere i just couldnt find it!! Buckwheat you may have saved me! OTAY! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 So the comanche decided to take a little time off during the snow. i had it in four wheel low backing out of my drive way got all the way to the road and the front wheels quit spinning leaving us in the middle of a road. The front drive shaft is spinning but the wheels are not turning. I did not hear a pop. I still have automatic hubs. (hoping its not a vacuum line, if its like my old Chevy) could there be a solenoid froze? we do have 14'' of snow on the ground. any help is much appreciated. i will be checking this mutliple times today since i can't really go anywhere :doh: You don't have automatic hubs, you have (as already commented) a central axle disconnect. It's a vacuum-operated sliding collar mechanism on the passenger side, between the differential and the outer stub axle. If you lose vacuum, the slider won't actuate. It can be engaged manually, but doing so requires crawling under the vehicle and removing the vacuum shift mechanism from the housing on the axle. There are no solenoids. It's not operated by electricity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustyinthedirt Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 Alright awesome. Once the snow is gone i'll crawl under there and see what i can find. Thank you so much for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 Alright awesome. Once the snow is gone i'll crawl under there and see what i can find. Thank you so much for the help. Just do the mod. CAD STINKS The big issue is that the CAD system only fails when you need it the most. Kinda like when you don't realize your wiper blades need replacing until it rains.... I know somebody’s system works and he advocates keeping it stock, but my exposure to the failures is probably hundreds of times greater than his, as a result of being Service Manager at a Jeep dealership from 1980 through 1992, and being a current XJ and MJ owner. CAD stinks. Every Jeep I work on with it, I eliminate it. Guess what I find in the process? 25 year old busted vacuum lines, bloated vacuum line connectors, bad vacuum reservoirs and piping, bad transfer case vacuum switches. In other words, had the person gotten into a sticky situation and needed 4WD, they would have been screwed!!! That's the tip of the iceberg. The factory went through 3 revisions of the shift fork also. The fork issue is non-existent if you just slide it over and leave it. See the link below for complete instructions. Takes less than 1/2 hour. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/fre...ss-91-a-38629/ , Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 I agree. The CAD on my '88 XJ failed once, a number of years ago. Naturally, I was in a valley trying to climb a hill in a snowstorm to get home. I replaced the vacuum harness, and I have a spare that's still new in the factory packaging, but knowing that there's no downside to eliminating it, my choice today would be to just lock it in the engaged position and not worry about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee21490 Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 On my old truck you used to have to unplug the vacuum lines, Count to five & Plug them back in. To get out of 4wd, Repeat. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustyinthedirt Posted January 24, 2016 Author Share Posted January 24, 2016 Crusier you are right about it leaving you sitting when you need it the most. i pulled the battery out of the Comanche and put in the ford we use around the farm and it decided to leave me sitting as well cause the battery went dead. yesterday wasnt my day. Today will be better. I am gonna dig the snow out from under the Comanche and fix the CAD in the snow. next question i have is it gonna kill my MPG's? i mean lets be serious these trucks don't get great MPG's. this is a daily driver truck. mild wheeler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 It won't hurt your mileage. Later XJs did away with the CAD and just run a solid axle on the passenger side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustyinthedirt Posted January 24, 2016 Author Share Posted January 24, 2016 Thats good to know. thanks guys for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 Actually, the same vintage of Cherokees with the NP242 transfer case had no disconnect and they got the same mileage....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 And shift them like this: Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in CAPS are mine. "To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I LET OFF THE GAS, THROW THE LEVER, TAP THE GAS AND LET OFF. 4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L". TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON. Revised 11/20/2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dustyinthedirt Posted January 25, 2016 Author Share Posted January 25, 2016 IT WORKED!! :bowdown: :thumbsup: :banana: I said heck with it if its that easy i am gonna do it now so i dug a hole in the fourteen inches of snow underneath the truck and pulled it. the C clip was the most difficult thing to remove. mine was just not engaging the whole way. must of had a leak. This fourm is great! thanks so much guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 "I love it when a plan comes together." Colonel John "Hannibal" Smith - The A-Team Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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