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AW4 TV cable


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I'm getting all my bearings straight to do an AW4 swap in my 88 replacing the BA10. I'm going with an electronic shifter since I cannot locate a harness that will work.

The last thing I cannot seem to figure out/see is where the throttle valve cable from the AW4 will hook up to my throttle body. Will I need to locate a different body? Any body have a picture of how this connects to the throttle. Thanks.

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Can't guarantee the Renix setup will be the same, but the HO one attaches to the same pivot as the throttle cable. There are three on there, the throttle cable, the cruise control, and the throttle valve. The cables are held by a bracket that bolts to the intake. I'll snap a pic tomorrow if I remember while there's daylight.

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So this is what I'm talking about. From the front:

The lower one is the tv cable. The other two attaching on opposite side of the same point are the throttle cable and cruise control.

IWzAbqg.jpg

 

And from above, (the top of the picture is towards the front of the truck. Top is throttle valve, and the other two are the throttle cable and cruise control.

xFkiDQD.jpg

It's set up to move opposite the throttle cable, by that I mean that as the throttle cable pulls the throttle open, the throttle cable retracts into the sheath, but it pulls the tv cable out of its sheath, and when the throttle is closed, the throttle cable extends but the tv cable retracts.

 

Looks like the throttle "arm" could be different between manual and automatic, just not having that extra cable attachment point for the tv cable. Beyond the Renix/HO difference of course.

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With the proper know-how, it would be pretty easy to set it up for fairly cheap. If you're not into analogue electronics, an Arduino could do it, probably even for less than the cost of a new tcu (if such a thing still exists) But you'd somehow still have to reference throttle position somehow to get the proper kick-down behaviour... Might be able to tap into the tps. You could even work in your own shift map, set multiple maps depending on some kind of input (say power/comfort switch)... Of course there are also a few aftermarket controllers available.

I've tossed this idea around a bit, but never had much of a reason to actually do it.

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