JohnQ Posted June 16, 2007 Posted June 16, 2007 I boogered up about 1.5 threads on one of my rear wheel studs. Do they make a .500-20 die or do I need to get a new stud?
DirtyComanche Posted June 16, 2007 Posted June 16, 2007 Which threads did you hurt? Ones that matter? As in they are near the base of the stud. If they're ones that matter, get a new stud. If they aren't I'd just file the threads so it works. Reasonably somebody will make a die, but it's often not worth finding/buying one.
tjbliley Posted June 16, 2007 Posted June 16, 2007 Craftsman makes a re-threading kit that anyone who owns an MJ should invest in. It is about $50 and it has SAE and Metric taps and dies just for re-threading. It can't be used to cut new threads but it is absolutely awesome for fixing old ones like on our trucks. check them.
86FUBAR Posted June 16, 2007 Posted June 16, 2007 Just replace the stud there only a couple bucks / if ur that cheap then go to the jyard and pocket one thats what id do
JohnQ Posted June 16, 2007 Author Posted June 16, 2007 Are the studs hard to change? I've never messed with one.
CWLONGSHOT Posted June 16, 2007 Posted June 16, 2007 On the rear axle, you just beat it out and "pull" the new one in with the nut upside down. They just press in to the axle shaft flange. Lube it up first!! CW
mike Posted June 16, 2007 Posted June 16, 2007 if your getting one from a junkyard before you beat it out you need to put on a nut to help keep the threads from getting damaged, otherwise you'll be in the same place with that one. :headpop:
JohnQ Posted June 16, 2007 Author Posted June 16, 2007 Well I got a brand new wheel stud today, but I can't get it to go in. I broke my c-clamp in the process. I also tried using a lug nut but it just spins, I can't get it to even start pressing in. What do I need to do?
86FUBAR Posted June 16, 2007 Posted June 16, 2007 use an impact gun and it should do the trick/ just put some washers over the stud , flip the nut over and it should just suck the stud on
summerinmaine Posted June 16, 2007 Posted June 16, 2007 use an impact gun and it should do the trick/ just put some washers over the stud , flip the nut over and it should just suck the stud on And it wouldn't hurt to throw the stud into the freezer for a couple of hours, and perhaps heat up the backing plate a bit. The interference fit clearance is not huge, so even small temperature differences can do the trick. An old trick from years of working on Brit Iron.
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