Comanchaholic Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 Does anyone know what the voltage to the fuel pump should be? I'm getting 6 volts. Is this enough? [/img] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheman Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 does your truck run? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYMJ Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 Can't answer that specifically. Can you hear the pump running? Mine wasn't running. My test light barely lit, I wished I had checked it with a voltmeter, but didn't. The ballast resistor was bad and the pump wasn't getting enough voltage. So, if your're trying to diagnose a problem that might help. If you just want to know, sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 cranking: 12V running: about 8 or 9. try bypassing the ballast resistor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 cranking: 12V running: about 8 or 9. try bypassing the ballast resistor. the ballast resistor is the ceramic piece on the left side of your engine bay, mounted to the sidewall...one wire in, one wire out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdp001 Posted June 15, 2007 Share Posted June 15, 2007 :brows: SO ANYWAY i HAVE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM YOU HAVE .AND i PUT STRAIT 12V TO MY PUMP(WITH FUSE!!) AND MY MJ NOW RUNS LIKE A Raped ape no more bucking and hesitations ,don t know what everybody else runs but mine runs a lot stronger then with the ballast resistor! :roll: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted June 16, 2007 Share Posted June 16, 2007 SO ANYWAY i HAVE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM YOU HAVE .AND i PUT STRAIT 12V TO MY PUMP(WITH FUSE!!) AND MY MJ NOW RUNS LIKE A Raped ape no more bucking and hesitations ,don t know what everybody else runs but mine runs a lot stronger then with the ballast resistor! With a healthy fuel pump ballast resistor circuit, voltage at the pump should be 9-10 VDC after starting. The ballast resistor is bypassed during starting, then relayed in the circuit to drop the voltage to prolong the FP lifespan and hold noise down. Corrosion on the relay terminals, the ballast resistor, and the pump itself will cause a voltage drop, and cleaning them up will correct this. A raped ape will run only so far, then it dies from exhaustion :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdp001 Posted June 16, 2007 Share Posted June 16, 2007 Hornbrod I like your reply ,it is kinda like ....... life sucks then you die :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: Anyway Ilike the way you say " with a healthy" mine is an 88 with the Renix on it, have been doing nothing but fixing and repairing!!! I know Jeep could have done better then this . :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted June 16, 2007 Share Posted June 16, 2007 Jeep did pretty well, how many 20 yr old vehicles are even repairable at this stage. let alone to see the abuse I put mine through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanchaholic Posted June 16, 2007 Author Share Posted June 16, 2007 OK ,I cannot find a ballast resistor any where,and where is the fuel pump relay and what does it look like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted June 16, 2007 Share Posted June 16, 2007 Hornbrod I like your reply ,it is kinda like ....... life sucks then you die :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: Anyway Ilike the way you say " with a healthy" mine is an 88 with the Renix on it, have been doing nothing but fixing and repairing!!! I know Jeep could have done better then this . :brows: Don't blame Jeep for what a previous owner broke, or failed to maintain. My '88 XJ I bought new in early 1988. It has just over 266,000 miles on it now. The original clutch lasted 204,000 miles, and was replaced only because the release bearing got noisy. The original Trac-Lok lasted 150,000 miles. The valve cover has never been off. I'm just about to put in the second replacement radiator, but the original lasted something like 185,000 miles (in New England). I've replaced one front hub/bearing unit -- the other is still the original. All driveshaft u-joints are original. There's nothing wrong with your Jeep. Fault whoever didn't take care of it before you got it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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