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Marvel at the Mystery Oil


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So I'm going to use this junk tomorrow on the manche and I know how to use it on a regular vehicle but this one I'm guessing hasn't had a oil/ filter change since last Nov or even longer who knows....(not my fault) So I started this thread to ask some opinions on my approach.

 

 I was thinking about getting a new oil filter and swapping it in before I run the MMO through the system , reason being I'm not sure how old / full the filter is and its a FRAM don't want the MMO to clog the old one any further. I can't drive this car on any roads in its current no registration or inspection situation especially with a broken windshield.... So I was going to add the MMO and then let it run and idle for a while ( any idea how long?) I was planning on taking this approach every couple days when  I work on it and  let it idle the MMO through the system.

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So if it has been sitting as it can't be driven what clogged the oil filter? How is the MJ not a "regular vehicle?" Just make sure you bring the engine temp up to normal operating temp when you run it. Without any idea about the miles on the oil/filter it is hard to form a good opinion

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well it is registered just not in my name it was driven since november driven from PA to NH  but neglected then the windshield broke and he sold it previous owner drove it since november as a daily to and from work. I state it as "not regular" because I know nothing of its service history. The oil is really black...blackest ive seen

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I don't know about Marvel, aside from the fact that it's very thin and a relatively aggressive solvent, but I have been running Shell Rotella T6 (Synthetic diesel oil) with a bottle of Rislone engine treatment (A softer cleaning agent).  Over the course of a year and 5 oil changes My oil went from coming out pure black after just 2000 miles to a dark brown that I can see some light through as it drains.  Diesel oil has an added benefit of extra additives that do better at suspending carbon in the oil, while the synthetic aspect of T6 makes it far more stable at higher temps, which alleviates further buildup.  The rislone does a good job of slowly eating away at the deposits during normal operation over time vs. an add and drain "flush" procedure.    I would recommend something similar to this over a more aggressive solvent that can potetnially cause the oil pickup to the pump to clog.  I could be mistaken about Marvels aggressiveness, but that aside, I was never a fan of how thin that stuff is.  I guess if it was added to a thicker oil like T6 15w-40, it would be alright though.

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Marvel Mystery Oil is a cleaner as well as a lubricant. The normal dose is one can added to the full crankcase. To really purge a dirty engine, you could do an oil change, put in five quarts of oil rather than six, and dump in two or three cans of Marvel. I wouldn't drive it hard like that, but since your plan won't be putting any load on the engine I don't see that as a problem.

 

I would NOT change just the filter, and then add the Marvel to the old, dirty oil. Use new, clean oil -- even if you go to Wal-Mart and buy their house brand. It won't be in there for long, and you're not going to be stressing the engine.

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when i first checked the oil there was only like 2 quarts in poor thing so I added 3 quarts (all i had with me in the XJ) . don't have the dough to do an oil change today .. oh well another time I will do it. Guess I will just change the fuel filter and install a new oil pressure sender and hopefully I can locate the damn ground for the fuse panel, looked for 30 mins the other day and couldnt find the damn ground wire.

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i'm always hesitant to run any type of solvent/detergent oil in an engine with unknown history, especially in one that may have been using non detergent oil in the past as the sludge letting lose can block passages with catastrophic results - my MJ has a new engine because the PO added mobil-1 synth when he got it and it caused the sludge from previous old  oils to  loosen and ka-bam -  cracked block and warped head. I would add the newest cheapest oil/filter   that can found, add a small amount of MMO or some other sludge remover type of stuff ( http://www.auto-rx.com/-  no ties to company, but i have used it in old harley motors and it seems to work but is no miracle rebuild in a can stuff ) and carefully run it a bit and change the oil again and repeat - do you have an oil pressure gauge - it may help monitor the oil state in the motor? If not listen to the motor carefully as they typically start making a huge racket a minute or two before they blow up (not that the stock motor in decent shape doesn't anyways)

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^^^ That's what I do on all of my 4.0's, 5 quarts oil/1 quart MMO. It quiets the normal lifter noise that just about all higher mileage 4.0's get. I run it in my wife's WJ with a bigger filter (Purolator 30001), and run 6 quarts oil and 1 quart MMO. Can't run that filter on the others (YJ, XJ, or MJ) because of space issues.

 

Jerry

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