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Hey guys,

 

I’m having trouble tracking down an engine turnover problem. A few days ago I turned the ignition and got nothing, dead nothing. I was in a parking lot with no tools (of course). My positive battery cable was loose so I wiggled it and few other things, it started so I tightened it at home and had no more problems. Until this morning when needing to go to work (of course). I could get it to try to turn over, the starter was working but it was not starting. Then it would only engage the starter every 4th or 5th time turning the key over. Completely unresponsive, not even a click on the in-betweens, with the exception of the sound of something electrical like a solenoid spitting its dying breath. Got a ride to work, but I thought I would post while at work so I might have a clue when I go home and try to work on it. So the big questions for me are, does my 88 Comanche have the kind of starter with the solenoid built into the starter? I replaced the starter about 8 yrs ago, so it’s not all that old. Also, does my truck have a voltage regulator in between the battery and the starter like my cars from the 70's had? My battery is only a few months old too. Of course, first off I will try jumping it when I get home, and I don't mean with a baseball bat. My gut tells me it’s not the battery, but I did eat spicy food for breakfast….  Thanks in advance :thumbsup: 

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The solenoid is built onto the starter.  And ComancheKid45's comment.

That's what I thought. So there is not voltage regulator between the battery and the starter, the solenoid takes care of that, correct? The aftermarket starter was a Mitsubishi......

 

So I got a ride home from a friend and gave it a try, got the nasty bad electrical part noise. Had my friend jump to turn it over so I could listen in the engine compartment to confirm the noise came from the starter..... and she turned it once and it started like a dream, six times.... Sheesh! Watch it not start when I get in it to go to work tomorrow morning. When it started the battery read fully charged, so yeah I'm pretty sure it's the starter too. I'll replace it unless anyone else has any other diagnostic tricks for me to try. 

 

I still consider my truck more reliable than any of the boyfriends I've had...  :rotf:  I know how to figure out what's wrong with my truck!

 

Thanks Eagle and ComancheKid 45!

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I still consider my truck more reliable than any of the boyfriends I've had...  :rotf:  I know how to figure out what's wrong with my truck!

 

So instead of a boy friend, why don't you try getting a man friend? :brows:

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The solenoid is built onto the starter.  And ComancheKid45's comment.

That's what I thought. So there is not voltage regulator between the battery and the starter, the solenoid takes care of that, correct? The aftermarket starter was a Mitsubishi......

 

So I got a ride home from a friend and gave it a try, got the nasty bad electrical part noise. Had my friend jump to turn it over so I could listen in the engine compartment to confirm the noise came from the starter..... and she turned it once and it started like a dream, six times.... Sheesh! Watch it not start when I get in it to go to work tomorrow morning. When it started the battery read fully charged, so yeah I'm pretty sure it's the starter too. I'll replace it unless anyone else has any other diagnostic tricks for me to try. 

 

I still consider my truck more reliable than any of the boyfriends I've had...  :rotf:  I know how to figure out what's wrong with my truck!

 

Thanks Eagle and ComancheKid 45!

 

Marie, why don't you click on the link in my signature and do Tips 1 through 5?

 

Good preventative maintenance on an old rig and you can avoid issues in the future.

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Marie, why don't you click on the link in my signature and do Tips 1 through 5?

 

 

Good preventative maintenance on an old rig and you can avoid issues in the future.

 

Thanks Cruiser54, you're always an inspiration to me!

 

The plastic (or probably something like bak-o-lifte) on the top of the solenoid on my starter was cracked, so I think that was the more major problem. However, I did go through Cruiser54's 1-5 tips too.

 

Cruiser54, you helped me out before and gave me the heads up on cleaning the C101 a couple of years ago. So that has been thoroughly cleaned. I did the other steps too, well not EVERY connector just yet but several. I will do the rest soon. My truck doesn't have the bundle of ground wires on the dip stick bolt. I did find four wires coming out of the bundle that comes from the C101, on a bolt on the rear passenger side of the valve cover and cleaned those up all nice and tidy. Did the ICU too.

 

It is running now, however I think there may still be an issue with the MAP. I checked the resistance as you instructed and I got a reading of 51! Not good! So do I have to trace that B connector wire and replace it, is that the  next task? I was supposed to disconnect it from the MAP to stick the probe in, correct?

 

You guys are the best!

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Marie, why don't you click on the link in my signature and do Tips 1 through 5?

 

 

Good preventative maintenance on an old rig and you can avoid issues in the future.

 

Thanks Cruiser54, you're always an inspiration to me!

 

The plastic (or probably something like bak-o-lifte) on the top of the solenoid on my starter was cracked, so I think that was the more major problem. However, I did go through Cruiser54's 1-5 tips too.

 

Cruiser54, you helped me out before and gave me the heads up on cleaning the C101 a couple of years ago. So that has been thoroughly cleaned. I did the other steps too, well not EVERY connector just yet but several. I will do the rest soon. My truck doesn't have the bundle of ground wires on the dip stick bolt. I did find four wires coming out of the bundle that comes from the C101, on a bolt on the rear passenger side of the valve cover and cleaned those up all nice and tidy. Did the ICU too.

 

It is running now, however I think there may still be an issue with the MAP. I checked the resistance as you instructed and I got a reading of 51! Not good! So do I have to trace that B connector wire and replace it, is that the  next task? I was supposed to disconnect it from the MAP to stick the probe in, correct?

 

You guys are the best!

 

You're talking Tip 5 and you got 51 ohms of resistance? Now I remember you!!

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